Club 80-90 Forums

I don't know if this is the best place to post to reach the 2wd guys? Here is a link to the post regarding these tanks on the Syncro section. They are usable on 2wd busses as well. Follow the link and ask any questions there. https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=158766&p=8188549#...

As far as I know the brakes on all the SA 5 cylinder T3's are the same.

Ian

I am on the SyncroSA forum and have seen some of your posts there. I'll start a new thread and put it up here shortly with all the details and pics. It was a bit of work but I'm very happy with the end product. Best thing I've ever done to my bus!

Ian

I finally got around to stuffing the Mazda V6 in my Syncro. I'll post some more pics and info if anyone is interested.

Yep I wouldn't stake my like on Wikipedia either. But over here we generally got the same as what was available in Europe as opposed to the USA, as well as a few Australian models which you may not have got over there. The Telstar was the model we got before the Mondeo and I think it came from OZ. I...

As I understand it, and if Wikipedia has it correct, the engine in the Mazda MX6 and Ford Telstar and Probe from 88 to around 95, is a Mazda design K series engine. (84.5x74.2mm bore and stroke) The Mondeos from 94 used a Ford built Duratec engine (82.4x79.5mm)which was also used by Jag and Mazda wi...

Have you got any further with this? As far as I know the Mondeo 2.5 V6 is a Ford Duratec engine and not sourced from Mazda. Mazda made the earlier 2.5 V6 that was found in the MX6 and Ford Telstar. I'm looking at fitting the Mazda v6 to my Syncro.

Cheers
Ian

Thanks. The manual does show a pic with this part but it is impossible to make it out. I presume though that it is just a thin piece of nylon to stop the metal fork rubbing against the metal box? I've not seen any for sale anywhere but I'm sure I could just make one up. Anyone got a pic so I can est...

Yep I'm hoping Aidan will give his opinion. But it does seem likely that the box will have to come out. Not sure whether the gearshift housing can be removed from the gearbox without removing the whole box and even whether the problem is likely to be there. Anyway, thanks again for your help in ruli...

The vehicle has such low mileage and the gearshift was perfect before this happened so I don't think it is anything to do with the linkage. Also even with the linkage removed I can't select any gears by hand, except for reverse. I don't know much about gearboxes but I presume it must have something ...

Thanks that helps a lot. Well it clears up one question anyway! It makes sense as I also noticed that only one of the forks has the nylon sleeve on it and the dimensions are slightly different to the Syncro one. So now I just need to work out what is going on in the gearbox.

While I'm waiting for replies I thought some of you might like to see what the rest of it looks like.

I've got a 1980 2.0 Aircooled camper with just over 20 000 miles on it. I lent it to a friend for a short trip and while he had it he started to battle to get it into gear and then a few miles later couldn't get it into gear at all. The gearshift was perfect before this happened as you would expect ...

No problem. I just replaced the universal joint during my recent rebuild. Pretty pricey at about 150 pounds. If I were doing it again I would look at the possibility of using the rubber coupling instead and adapting the shaft to fit.

The length of the shaft for the power steering for a Syncro is 582mm. The power steering also uses a universal joint in place of the rubber coupling and this measures approximately 83mm.

Cheers
Ian