Club 80-90 Forums

only way to reduce the revs is to have an engine that produces more power at lower revs VW (et al) went TDi, clever fuel injection direct into combustion chamber with a turbo to give it the air to burn more fuel more efficiently And mate that to a gearbox with more ratios closer together so the eng...

Without the indicators on the relay shouldn't have any way to power up. I doubt the flasher relay is the cause of this.
My guess is either you have some other relay making this noise, or you have a failing indicator or hazard switch that is full of dust and muck.

There are many different dosing volumes available on the pumps, 0.016, 0.022, 0.028, 0.040ml etc etc. Just get a cheap chinese pump with the same dose volume and it'll be absolutely fine. I think the D3L uses a 0.022ml pump which is the most common size. Maybe even treat yourself to a "silent&q...

I have a - presumably faulty - 191...numbered TCI that makes the fuel pump priming cycle every few seconds, rather than the single 1-2 second burst that is usual. It also gets hot very quickly, which makes me think that it has an internal short that is sending a false signal to the ecu. Rather than...

Engine ECU controls the fuel pump relay, initially when the key is turned to ignition it will prime for a few seconds - just a timer, there's no feedback from pressure etc.

Whenever the ECU detects the engine is rotating from the crank/dizzy sensor, it will enable the pump again.

It's not really possible for a relay to melt a starter motor unless it was holding the thing powered on all the time (which you would obviously notice)

As Simon says, you have a different problem that needs fixing.

A bead of Sika Lastomer 710 non setting sealant in the "metal side" of the seals when fitting will cure it. Other sealants are available, but sika 710 is easiest to clean up, just leave it a couple of days and any excess will ball up and peel off like blu tac.

As with any mystery switches like this, all you can do is trace it back to the point where it joins the rest of the vehicle which might give you some hints at what problem they were trying to solve. Then you can remove it, and maybe fix the problem properly

They don't fit, the auto box hasn't got a swappable bellhousing, they were only ever made to take a flat four.  You could make it work using custom adapters etc (and IIRC an I4 diesel swap was done in period for german taxis) but the t25 autoboxes do like to make the most of the engine revs so while...

They serve no functional purpose other than to avoid carb icing in very severe cold weather, the likes of which we don't see in the UK (and if we did, it'd be unlikely that you'd choose to drive a 40 year old van on the salted roads anyway!) There's no need to use stainless - Black Aluminium foil 50...

Alpicool stuff is chinese made but the more "traditional" brands have been resting heavily on their laurels for two decades, there's very little difference in quality. The compressors themselves are all very very similar, and supposedly all come out of the same factory (just badged "L...

Yep, that's all resistor/capacitor based timing. I'm not skilled enough to reverse engineer that in any reasonable amount of time, so modifying it is out of the picture really. The scope traces are interesting, it's adding a lot of timing when the RPMs are low. Lets say the window in which these wor...

Ayup Ian! seen your email. It's my understanding that this just tweaks the ignition timing to help with the idle. Below the target RPM it'll advance the timing a bit, just to try and add a small amount of "closed loop" to the system for a more stable idle. That way you can live with a litt...

If you're having to pay someone to install a 2nd hand replacement engine then you're vanishingly unlikely to see that money back in the sale price of the van. And then there's the risk - if your replacement engine is no good, you'll still owe the garage ~10 hours labour for fitting it, and you'll st...

There are only three or four threads left. This might be enough to gently thread a new injector into as a short term fix (to get you home, but no more) but it's not enough to properly hold the injector with full torque.

Realistically, you need to replace the cylinder head.