Techniques - Loosening rear hub nut

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Revision as of 00:33, 10 September 2009 by HarryMann (talk | contribs) (Created page with '====Breaker bars Vs T-bars==== Rather than break a breaker bar (3/4" bars can be broken!) the correct tool for loosening and tightening is a 3/4" T-bar and 3/4" drive 46mm flank…')
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Breaker bars Vs T-bars

Rather than break a breaker bar (3/4" bars can be broken!) the correct tool for loosening and tightening is a 3/4" T-bar and 3/4" drive 46mm flank drive socket (although 3/4" bi-hex sockets are frequently supplied for this job and will do) A pudlock to extend the T-bar is often needed (a pudlok or putlock is a 5' scaff pole flattened at one end)

EMPI style Impact wrench

Empi hub-nut impact spanner

for removing difficult hub-nut easily, not recommended for torqueing back up.

Grinding and chiselling

Another way if the rear hub-nut is really stubborn: angle-grinder, skim but do not touch threads. Then sharp cross-cut chisel to split the nut off. Threads are very fine and easily damaged. Heavy dolly under nut if chiselling down. esle chisel across to stretch ground area open and loosen.

Bolt/Nut punch (drift)

New nuts from Just Kampers (£4-50)

Heating

Heat (gas burner or carburizing oxy-acetylene flame) is sometimes used, but should be used with caution.