Difference between revisions of "Techniques - Loosening rear hub nut"
m (Created page with '====Breaker bars Vs T-bars==== Rather than break a breaker bar (3/4" bars can be broken!) the correct tool for loosening and tightening is a 3/4" T-bar and 3/4" drive 46mm flank…') |
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====Grinding and chiselling==== | ====Grinding and chiselling==== | ||
Another way if the rear hub-nut is really stubborn: angle-grinder, skim but do not touch threads. Then sharp cross-cut chisel to split the nut off. Threads are very fine and easily damaged. Heavy dolly under nut if chiselling down. | Another way if the rear hub-nut is really stubborn: angle-grinder, skim but do not touch threads. Then sharp cross-cut chisel to split the nut off. Threads are very fine and easily damaged. Heavy dolly under nut if chiselling down. Else chisel across to stretch thinned area open and break nut/thread bond. | ||
[[General Screw/bolt punch|Bolt/Nut punch (drift)]] | [[General Screw/bolt punch|Bolt/Nut punch (drift)]] | ||
Revision as of 00:35, 10 September 2009
Breaker bars Vs T-bars
Rather than break a breaker bar (3/4" bars can be broken!) the correct tool for loosening and tightening is a 3/4" T-bar and 3/4" drive 46mm flank drive socket (although 3/4" bi-hex sockets are frequently supplied for this job and will do) A pudlock to extend the T-bar is often needed (a pudlok or putlock is a 5' scaff pole flattened at one end)
EMPI style Impact wrench
for removing difficult hub-nut easily, not recommended for torqueing back up.
Grinding and chiselling
Another way if the rear hub-nut is really stubborn: angle-grinder, skim but do not touch threads. Then sharp cross-cut chisel to split the nut off. Threads are very fine and easily damaged. Heavy dolly under nut if chiselling down. Else chisel across to stretch thinned area open and break nut/thread bond.
New nuts from Just Kampers (£4-50)
Heating
Heat (gas burner or carburizing oxy-acetylene flame) is sometimes used, but should be used with caution.
