Difference between revisions of "Techniques - Loosening rear hub nut"
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====Breaker bars Vs T-bars==== | ====Breaker bars Vs T-bars==== | ||
Revision as of 20:20, 3 July 2011
Breaker bars Vs T-bars
Rather than break a breaker bar (3/4" bars can be broken!) the correct tool for loosening and tightening is a 3/4" T-bar and 3/4" drive 46mm flank drive socket (although 3/4" bi-hex sockets are frequently supplied for this job and will do) A pudlock to extend the T-bar is often needed (a pudlok or putlock is a 5' scaff pole flattened at one end)
EMPI style Impact wrench
for removing difficult hub-nut easily, not recommended for torqueing back up.
Grinding and chiselling
Another way if the rear hub-nut is really stubborn: angle-grinder, skim but do not touch threads. Then sharp cross-cut chisel to split the nut off. Threads are very fine and easily damaged. Heavy dolly under nut if chiselling down. Else chisel across to stretch thinned area open and break nut/thread bond.
New nuts from Just Kampers (£4-50)
Heating
Heat (gas burner or carburizing oxy-acetylene flame) is sometimes used, but should be used with caution.
