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Rear hub castellated nut

Posted: 01 Apr 2012, 09:47
by Tel87
Does this have to be a specific torque? because iv checked my haynes manny but can't font the torque settings :D

Re: Rear hub castellated nut

Posted: 01 Apr 2012, 09:49
by Titus A Duxass
It's 500 Nm - i.e. a 'kin lot!
Two fat blokes and a metre length of scaffolding tube.

Re: Rear hub castellated nut

Posted: 01 Apr 2012, 10:35
by Tel87
Haha Cheaz bud :ok

Re: Rear hub castellated nut

Posted: 01 Apr 2012, 11:54
by Oldiebut goodie
It's in the Bentley which by now you should have a copy of! https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=99764

Re: Rear hub castellated nut

Posted: 01 Apr 2012, 12:16
by icosahedron
Early vans with 6 slot axle nut, 350 Nm, late vans with 10 slot, 500 Nm.

Re: Rear hub castellated nut

Posted: 01 Apr 2012, 23:26
by California Dreamin
One of those cases where..unless you have access to a 3/4 or inch drive torque wrench (very unlikely) it's going to be a guessing game.....one things for sure, this is one very tight nut. I've heard the setting described as 'one 16 stone fatboy swinging on the end of a 6ft piece of scaffold'....about right I would say!

Martin

Re: Rear hub castellated nut

Posted: 01 Apr 2012, 23:44
by Oldiebut goodie
It doesn't need to be much of a guessing game - if you know your own weight you can soon work out what length of bar is needed and where to stand on it. I know that it seems as though you need double the length to undo them.
A 16 stone fat boy at the end of a six foot pole would give you 1344 lb/ft whereas you only need 360 lb/ft for the ten slot nut.

Re: Rear hub castellated nut

Posted: 02 Apr 2012, 06:08
by CovKid
I tend to do them up until I can feel some noticeable resistance on the pole and go for next nearest slot for the split-pin which usually isn't much more. Thats about right - not swing on it like some demented thing :D I used a torque wrench when I started out some 25 years ago but you get a feel for the right pressure. It needs to be tight enough to not undo and yet pull everything in the hub up nice and snug - but not so tight you need three men the next time :D

As Oldie says, it can feel very tight when undoing them but you're also fighting rust and friction then. Doing them up is a lot easier. I use a 5' pole.

Re: Rear hub castellated nut

Posted: 02 Apr 2012, 08:16
by California Dreamin
Oldiebut goodie wrote:It doesn't need to be much of a guessing game - if you know your own weight you can soon work out what length of bar is needed and where to stand on it. I know that it seems as though you need double the length to undo them.
A 16 stone fat boy at the end of a six foot pole would give you 1344 lb/ft whereas you only need 360 lb/ft for the ten slot nut.

And me being a teacher...perhaps I should have been a little more scientific about this and worked out the math like you mate (detention to myself) . lol :rofl

Martin

Re: Rear hub castellated nut

Posted: 02 Apr 2012, 08:44
by Hacksawbob
What is the calculation of weight of fat boy to scaffold? Was asleep in that physics I lesson obviously

Re: Rear hub castellated nut

Posted: 02 Apr 2012, 10:08
by call me Al
If you look on the Norbar website there is a calulator, this allows you to use a normal lower range torque wrench with an extension bar. I got a length of inch 1/2 pipe flatened one end and drilled and filed a square hole in it for the wrench, put a large adjustable in the other and with the help of the calculator and a lot pulling that did the job. If you have the right size socket I would use that rather than a adjustable.