Club 80-90 Forums

Hi,

Have read forum (and others) and wanting to create a list of good maintenance to carry out on Tyson....



I'm wanting to start with both diff oils to change... So what is best (same for both I assume) Castrol GL4 ??? Recommendations appreciated.



And also, if you can, a list of priorites for him. A 1.6TD 4+G gear'd camper...

Comma SX 75W90 GL4 for the transaxle, comes in 1 litre bottles only. I got mine from CAF but you'll have to make them pull the catalogue out from under the counter as most don't know it exists. Not expensive.

Syntrans 75W90 was the original spec (?)

I use the Carlube SemiSynthetic 75W/90 GL4/GL5 when rebuilding the boxes and in mine front and rear, recommend changing every 2-3 years max on a syncro, more often if worked hard - the Carlube appears to be the same as the Fuchs I used before and as close to the original spec as possible, may even be the same/equivilent modern version of
as long as it says GL4 that's good, if it only says GL5 then avoid except front diff that's ok as no brass syncro rings to worry about

I do not recommend MT90 or any of the higher spec synthetic oils they don't seem to offer enough protection to crown and pinion and big drive gears, rather put in mineral GL4 than them

Additives it's a matter of choice, I probably should put them in every box but it feels almost like an admission of failure, even though I think VW used them originally, but no real evidence of that - I'm running the Wurth additive in mine this oil change - I was given a sample to try, tell you in 2 years what I think

BIG Thanks... that's exactly what I was hoping for... great advice.

I will order tomorrow.

And he'll be happier with new oil. Probably never been changed. I have a few years worth of history and nothing is in there

That, and a good undersealing is called for Both I'm looking forward to..!

I followed Aidan's advice when I changed both front and rear back in the summer and it worked for me.

One word of advice though - make sure you can get the filler plugs undone before you drain the oil. Otherwise you could be stuck!

PetenAli wrote:I followed Aidan's advice when I changed both front and rear back in the summer and it worked for me.

One word of advice though - make sure you can get the filler plugs undone before you drain the oil. Otherwise you could be stuck!

Will do... is it recommended to put a few miles in first so oil becomes a little warmer??

oh, and how many litres should be ordered to do front and back...? It's just they seem to come in 1L bottles...

total fill is 4.5 litres rear and 1.5 litres front
but you won't be able to change it all
ensure vehicle is level, there's a 1 way valve in the gearbox and if vehicle rear down the ball can be closed and oil overflows from filler before the required volume is in there; seen a lot of syncro boxes with only 3 and a bit litres in

What gear oil additives are available for these transaxles (dare I ask if any are recommended based on experience?)

The rebuilt syncro is definitely heavier-shifting when cold this winter, compared to when it was shaggedout and filled with brown slurry!

silverbullet wrote:...filled with brown slurry!

I drained the g/box oil in a bay. It dripped onto the boiler suit collar. What a stink!

Wouldn't come out.. The worse smell ever, and I've worked in a chicken rendering factory..

This is a gearbox/transaxle oil thread. Someone is bound to come along and say you dont need to change your gearbox oil cuz VW say you dont need to! Im telling you ....

Yawn..
They also said you don't need to change the petrol filter on injection models....

Andrew, don't upset things now...I'm trying to quietly introduce the word "transaxle" into the collective subconscious

Changed the oil in both diffs and even with my monkey mittens for hands I can tell there's a marked difference..! Gear change is so much better and strangely seems to turn easier..

Very happy with that little bit of work.

I would say tho, the oil that came out was a lot better than I thought it'd be. still, not complaining...

After 20-odd years, the old oil can't be expected to be much good at keeping the contact surfaces apart now, can it?

For the sake of an hour's faffing about and £30 for the oil, it's got to be worth it.

Just bought a case of 12 litre bottles for a whisker over £50 trade