Club 80-90 Forums

ok so my heater blower on my t25 decides it does not want to be keeping me warm, it works just not very well. so i have purchased a new motor from justkampers




ok after of undoing screws that holds certain components to the dash

from this



to this



as you can see from the pic the the heater box is clipped together. i was panicking that i had the one that was glued .








ok so one of the problems i have now is getting the box out. it seems to go so far then gets stuck on something. i am trying to avoid disconnecting the water pipes to the heater matrix. i will try and post more once i have done the job.

ok so i got the heater box out with a bit of a pull



a heater flap fell off but its not broke



ok so i clipped heater box and used a flat ended screw driver to open the box.

this is wat i can see



broken earth wire do i repair earth wire and just put it all back together without fitting new fan. well i would be stupid not to, but the quality of the German fan housing makes me think should i fit German housing on the new fan mmmmmmm

Wouldn't want to give bad advice, but I would fit the new one.

What I will say is that you should move the steering wheel over to the correct side while you are at it.

Lol yeh decided to fit new one in the end. Did try and move steering but just did no have the right spanner lol

ok so after fitting the new motor and repairing other bits, i have checked the the earth crowns and cleaned them i have also checked fusebox cleaned the connections on that. so when i turn the fan on full the fuse still gets hot, after about a minute. so i turn the heater down to 1-2 setting fuse goes cold and does not get hot any ideas ?? anybody

right fuse fitted?

kevtherev wrote:right fuse fitted?

its a higher amp fuse fitted. my thought was if i put smaller in its just gonna get red hot quicker

If a 30 amp fuse is getting hot then maybe there's a problem with the switch

kevtherev wrote:If a 30 amp fuse is getting hot then maybe there's a problem with the switch

will try that i have a few spare lol will let you know once i have changed it

ok so i have just changed the switch over it did not get as warm but it still got hot intermittently, i had a look at fuse box and noticed the black and red wire that goes to a relay on top of fusebox was getting hot, so i cleaned that up. the fuse is luke warm but not hot. so i think it may be ok

Make sure the fuse is a tight fit and that the blower isn't sharing that fuse with something else. Too often extra items added over the years are strapped on to existing fuses in the box. In fact up to 85 the blower shared the fuse with the wipers so if one item failed, they both went down. I added a secondary fusebox to ease the load after my blower took out my wipers in driving rain on the M1, taking off everything else than had been added and wiring them into new fuse box.

Also, whilst not VW, this may help: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/21224 ... -help.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

That said, I'm not convinced that the blower fuse is stone cold at all times anyway. You could just run a new line with a good fuse holder for the blower and at least isolate it from everything else - even creating a new earth if needed. At low speed, the power goes via a resistor, at mid speed it goes through a milder resistor and at full whack, no resistor. I suspect that the stock fuse arrangement and cable run isn't ideal for the blower anyway. Nothing to stop you redesigning it to make sure connections are really solid. That's exactly what I did.

CovKid wrote:Make sure the fuse is a tight fit and that the blower isn't sharing that fuse with something else. Too often extra items added over the years are strapped on to existing fuses in the box. In fact up to 85 the blower shared the fuse with the wipers so if one item failed, they both went down. I added a secondary fusebox to ease the load after my blower took out my wipers in driving rain on the M1, taking off everything else than had been added and wiring them into new fuse box.

Also, whilst not VW, this may help: http://www." onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. .-trucks.com/forums/212241-hot-fuse-help.html

Ihave had the same problem driving back from Bristol the fuse melted and wipers and motor agent down I am looking to split the wiper motor on the fuse box at some point .

Cheers for help all. Still learning when it comes to car electrics lol

Sorry Baron, I added some more observations as you posted but yes you're right.

For those driving pre-85, I added the mod needed to the WIKI (bottom of page) although the principle would apply to post-85 too: https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Co ... eplacement" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Fitting a slow-blow fuse would also obviate the chances of fuse blowing if you start motor up on full.

Halfords (and other places) do extra fuse boxes for this purpose (around a tenner depending on size). May be a prudent time to look at whats being run from the fusebox now and whether it would be better to screw up a new fuse box to spread the load.

CovKid wrote:Sorry Baron, I added some more observations as you posted but yes you're right.

For those driving pre-85, I added the mod needed to the WIKI (bottom of page) although the principle would apply to post-85 too: https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Co ... eplacement" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Fitting a slow-blow fuse would also obviate the chances of fuse blowing if you start motor up on full.

Halfords (and other places) do extra fuse boxes for this purpose (around a tenner depending on size). May be a prudent time to look at whats being run from the fusebox now and whether it would be better to screw up a new fuse box to spread the load.

no probs matey its all been a great help

I did this a few weeks ago and while a pain to do, the wiki was brilliant help. I got it all sealed in and the fan running nice at all speeds.

Came to use it the other day, it's blowing fuses again. I used non thinning Teflon oil, it was seized but with the oil it started 1st time every time until I wanted to use it in earnest a couple of weeks later.

I think the wiki should be updated, given that the work required doing this, at least a whole day and that motors are available new for 33 quid, fixing the old one isn't sensible unless on an insanely tight budget.

I now have to do it all again, when the motor arrives.