Club 80-90 Forums

Just thought I would share this with you all. Ultimately its a how to change a rear wheel bearing video, but look just how wobbly my back wheel was when I took it in for the MOT they made me change it. I thought it was driving like cr4p recently

http://campervanculture.com/2011/07/jed ... on-syncro/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

jed

Kerching !!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the vid Jed, not as difficult as one would think. Great tip about not having to remove/disassemble the brakes!

Nice how to!!
Is that the van sitting on a hydraulic jack though? (From experience I can tell you a peugeot 106 drops "feck" quick when a seal goes in a trolly jack, makes you think twice how you get an axle stand under there safely let alone working on the jack!)

I once had a GSF bearing that loose, don't think I get it to greenlaneing though as it had done about 2000k miles! That was about the time everyone on here found out how useless they were. Had one go since due to water damage but after watching this I wish I'd tried it myself instead of getting it to a garage (I don't mind changing bearings when I know I have the bits to do it on the drive but drums don't come off my hubs and I never used to have the socket). I've always been a bit careful of wheelbearings since this happened...

Yes that wheel was still bolted to the halfshaft in the photo, and that means you loose all drive and breaking as the spline is out of the diff and the drum has cleared the shoes (single circuit footbrakes, transmission handbrake, RWD selected (though luckally as my free wheeling front hubs were locked I would have been able to engage the axle to get some drive and transmission brake back, but not footbrakes). A sealed for life thrust bearing is fine till it reaches the end of its life and breaks up! Not much chance of a roadside repair when the bearing requires 20t pressing onto the halfshaft ether, can see why they went over to taper roller bearings! Part of the joy of old vehicles I guess but recovery is hard when the wheels are missing!

Syncro G wrote:Nice how to!!
Is that the van sitting on a hydraulic jack though? (From experience I can tell you a peugeot 106 drops "feck" quick when a seal goes in a trolly jack, makes you think twice how you get an axle stand under there safely let alone working on the jack!)

Yes Glen, I had it just on a bottle jack while I put my head underneath the rear arm them whacked the whole thing with a drift and a big club hammer. Come on fella give me some credit here

1.09, 1.21, 1.37, 1.55, actually their are loads of shots with axle stands in shot as well as the bottle jack as secondary support, oh and all the other wheels are chocked etc etc etc..........

Glad you liked it

jed

That's grrreat procedure to save time in the field etc.

I just did a rear bearing and did a complete strip down, but this did give a me a chance to generally clean, lube, check/replace worn components as needed. As well as the bearing I replaced the back plate with an OK spare (rust damage) and a CVJ as well, so at least I have the peace of mind that corner should be good for a while. Coated all the exposed bits with underseal too.

Job's a good'un. You can see the axle stands in shot so what's the fuss about?

Remember folks: if swapping the CV's using this "out the back" technique c/w the splined shaft be warned that it may not clear the reinforcement in the swingarm and/or get hung up before the shaft disengages the hub.
Don't ask me how I know I thought it would save time but ended up a bit of an epic!

Jed, please go and buy a decent copper & hide mallet instead of belting machined parts with that builder's 2lb lump hammer!

The nut can be easily torqued up by an 80 kg scrawnbag like me with about 4 foot of scafold tube. No fat bloke required

silverbullet wrote: . No fat bloke required

However, one was used in this instance

Jed,

What is the green square section stuff you had the jack on? Look’s like some handy useful stuff, for van levelling also perhaps? must get some of that if it available.

cheers

Waffle board I imagine

ap,

Spot on, just googled it, and in a choice of colours!!

Great vid Jed just did my rear two on the van today after work took approx 2 hours one thing that came up is that the bearings need a little "persuasion" to go on and off the stub axles and you do need a fat bloke to break the castle nuts fortunately Dave is not far away

Aha! Been saying fur 6 years ont forum & int wiki yer dont need scaff bars and fat blokes to undo rear 46mm castle nut, just one of these whacker spanners for a tenner or so



https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ge ... ut_spanner

Have found that rear wheel bearings rarely go, nearly always the play caused by wear in the inner part of the bearing housing...

Old VW mechs would thus allow for that at MOT time, knowing that they tend to move in vert but not horz planes, and just mention it (year after year)... mine have had play for 4 years now, but they never fail it and don't seem to be getting any worse... although been chewingn cud with Ian SB about a fix for ovalled hub bores.

So change your rear brgs by all means, but don 't expect the play to go away

Tried the whacker spanner approach didn't shift and was also impeded by my rather long wheel studs but thought afterwards that if one wedged the bar on the ground and put it in gear the van would do the hard work for you

I think mine was a little more than play clive the van had been driving like crap for about six months and I thought it was due to me lifting it to much.

jed