Club 80-90 Forums

there is a switch underneath water pump pulley. follow the wires from where they join the loom on the n/s by the ignition module and this will lead you to the switch. system will flash with the wires disconnected i think but you may have serious problem or could just b switch or dash pcb as they are common as well. i would like to know that I had good oil pressure for piece of mind first though.

sure there isnt a brown wire runing over the left hand top of the engine to just by the waterpump striaght down from the dizzy? earth this wire, reconnect the one under neath and then get the pressure checked (or buy a new pressure switch)
Oil needs to be a mineral 15w40 or 15w50 or 20w50.. nothing fancy and thin....

Have you had any weird things happening with your headlights out of interest?

jed

John Hamilton wrote:SEE 1st POST

HELP - Has anybody any more suggestions - should I stop driving the van.
I have a VW Camper- Sept 1986 1900cc. petrol.

NO VW T25 mechanics on the Island.

You dont need a VW mechanic to get the actual oil pressure checked.......... needs to be a "hot test" any good mech can do that...

Fitted a new switch yet? in cas eits just the switch at fault??

Have you yet read all the Wiki entries on DOPWS and Buzzer of Doom?

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Al ... and_causes

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Pe ... l_pressure

PS. You need a Bentley manual up there methinks...

.. and presume you are following this thread: https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=74698&

If you earth the wire attached to the pressure switch it should stop the light buzzer, my high pressure/ low pressure light has been flashing for the past 3 years, I put it down to a break in the wire somewhere between the engine and dash board.

Hi, I had an issue with a new rebuilt engine (1.9DG) where I couldnt get oil pressure (or the oil pressure light to go out) on start-up. After going through all of the obvious checks and then the wiring including changing a few connectors & testing the pressure switches with a foot pump and a multimter to prove that the switch operated under pressure, I drained the oil filter, refitted it and turned the engine over (with the HT lead from the coil removed) and then rechecked the filter. There was oil in the filter so the oil pump appeard to be ok, so I turned to the pressure relief valve (under the big slotted screw below the filter on the underside of the enine). When I finally got this undone (see below) the spring dropped out straight away but the valve shuttle (sorry dont have my haynes to hand so cant give it it's propper name) itself took a while longer to drop out. When it did drop out, It seems that the shuttle was stuck in a thickish goo'y soup of disolving silicone that had been used in the (professional) re-build that flushed out with the oil that was behind the shuttle.

Once this had cleared and the valve refitted, the oil pressure light problem cleared and the tappets, which had been clearly starved of oil, quietend down. It maybe that you have something blocking or sticking the shuttle or its oil way.

To open the screw type fitting: I didn't have a big enough screwdriver to get a purchase on the slot, so I took an old tyre lever, ground one end down to fit and wedged this into the slot by using a bit of 4x2 soft wood by lifting the engine with my shoulder a fraction and lowering the engine weight gentle back on to the tyre lever. I used a Mole grip to hold the tyre lever and gave the grip a swift tap with a rubber hammer. That did the trick.

I hope this helps.