Club 80-90 Forums

My 1.6TD (JX) has had it and I need to replace it quickly. AAZ is looking like it might be too expensive for me and 1Y is too slow. So, I've started to wonder about moving to a petrol golf mk2 GTi 8v (pb). Obviously not as good on the fuel but then I'm not doing many miles - main goals are reliability and cruising speed. The engines seem to be plentiful and cheap. I know the bits for them are cheap and that they have plenty of poke (I've had a couple of mk2 GTi's in the past). It sounds too good to be true and so I know it probably is
I see there is a guide to the swap on the wiki but its from a wasserboxer point of view so I have some questions if anyone out there can help me?
Will the GTi pair ok with the diesel 5spd box?
Will I need to change the fuel tank?
Can the battery stay in the engine bay?
Do these conversions generate excessive heat like the TDs?
Will the standard cooling be ok or will it really need an oil cooler?
Is this just a crazy idea fullstop?

Any/all advice or help appreciated.
Cheers
Robin.

Hi Robin,

I've just bought a van with an 8v gti in (2 weeks ago) so I can't answer all your questions but might be able to help:

Mine was originally a ~1700 diesel i think (making it 1.6 or 1.8?) anyway, it uses the original 5 speed box which seems to work fine, not sure about the fuel tank, the batt is in the engine bay, doesn't have an oil cooler, not sure about it getting too hot yet!

It drives nicely, not pokey but cruises happily at 70 on the motorway and is nice to drive generally.

Hope this helps!

Mark

Hi, think I've answered these exact questions on another site I built one of these about 20 years ago now MK2 1.8GTi K jet injection ( the easy one )


Will the GTi pair ok with the diesel 5spd box? Yes very well Mine started out as 5S non turbo with very large wheels but I was a nasty sod and with a lead boot , I replaced the box with the 5S from a TD and needed to go down in tyre size

Will I need to change the fuel tank? I did not, but found that needed to keep out the red on the fuel gauge

Can the battery stay in the engine bay? yes , the engine bay does not change that much just the injection setup

Do these conversions generate excessive heat like the TDs? Did not find no problems

will the standard cooling be ok or will it really need an oil cooler? cooling on mine was OK , an oil cooler would be a good addition if not one already fitted like the sandwich oil filter type

Is this just a crazy idea fullstop? No but if your tempted to drive it with your foot hard down the speedo will go all the way round till it comes to its stop , so if your travelling down the motorway passing people at speeds 40mph faster than them then they might think your a bit crazy

Thanks Phil & Mark (yes that was me on the other forum).
I think I'm definitley sold on the digifant and there are a couple of them up for grabs local to me so that makes it eaisier. I perhaps would have liked to go AAZ but on the mileage I'm doing it's not worth forking out the extra for one. Exhaust is looking like the biggest hurdle. I'll take some pictures when it's done and do a write up.
My gearbox is also starting to whine and I've been offered a petrol 5spd one so I may change that too.
I'm looking forward to being able to cruise at 70 and to keeping up with the traffic around town. Can't wait!

vern4130 wrote:Hi Robin,

I've just bought a van with an 8v gti in (2 weeks ago) so I can't answer all your questions but might be able to help:

Mine was originally a ~1700 diesel i think (making it 1.6 or 1.8?) anyway, it uses the original 5 speed box which seems to work fine, not sure about the fuel tank, the batt is in the engine bay, doesn't have an oil cooler, not sure about it getting too hot yet!

It drives nicely, not pokey but cruises happily at 70 on the motorway and is nice to drive generally.

Hope this helps!

Mark

1700 is a model.. were only 1.6 non turbo, 1.7 non turbo and 1.6 turbo factory fitted

Robin,
This is becoming a very popular mod over here for us with JX power.
There is a website (in German) which provides a lot of details, here is the shopping list for the conversion - http://2e-im.vw-bus.net/?cat=10" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
and here it is translated.

Motor 2E komplett mit allen Anbauteilen: 2E motor with ancillaries:
- Lichtmaschine - Altenator
- Einspritzanlage - injection system
- Zündanlage - ignition system
- Geber (Öldruck etc.) - sensors (oil press., etc.)
- Abgaskrümmer - exhaust manifold
- Steuergerät - ecu
- Lambdasonde - lambda sensor
- Ölpumpe - oil pump
- Servopumpe (wer mag….) servo pump (if required).
Vom Dieselmotor: from JX
- Ölwanne (beim JX (Turbo) muss man die Ölrücklaufleitung von der Wanne entfernen und die Gewindebohrung mit einer Schraube verschliessen.)
Alternativ kann man auch die vom CS oder KY nehmen. Ergo: Alle Dieselölwannen sollten funktionieren
Sump (JX turbo motors - the turbo oil return line must be closed off) or use a sump from a CS or KY.

- Ansaugrüssel der Ölpumpe mit den Schrauben (wird mit Ölpumpe vom 2E verschraubt) - oil pump intake/feed
- Besser die verstärkte Ölpumpe vom JX - better the stronger JX oil pump.
- Schwungscheibe mit Schrauben - flywheel with screws
- Pilotlager (neu !) - pilot lager (new!)
- Motorhalter motorseitig mit Schrauben vom Dieselmotor engine mounts (engine side) from diesel
- Anschlussstutzen der Wasserpumpe des Dieselmotors - Den Schrägen aus Kunststoff! - not sure how this translates.
- Kupplungstrennblech - clutch dividing plate
- Kupplung (JX) - clutch
- Auspuff ab Krümmer / Turbo manifold from turbo
- Wer mag: Ölpeilstab - who wishes - dipstick + tube
Allgemein: others:
- Servoschlauch für Rücklauf 55 cm 16mm Innendurchmesser - servo tube for the return 55cm 16mm ID
- Benziner Drehzahlmesser (Cockpit) oder man baut sich die Klemme W nach. - petrol tacho
- Benzinpume vom WBX (neue Schwinggummis) - fuel pump from wasserboxer
- neuer Benzinfilter hinter der Pumpe Teilenummer: 1H0 201 511 A - new fuel filter behind the pump
- druckfeste Spritleitungen Innendurchmesser ca. 8mm ca. 5m (Pumpe - Filter - Motor) - high pressure fuel line 8mm dia approx. 5m (from pump to filter to motor)
- druckfeste Spritleitungen Innendurchmesser ca. 12 mm ca. 0,3m (Tank - Pumpe) - high pressure fuel line 12mm dia. approx. 0,3m (tank to pump)
- evtl. Tank vom WBX (wegen des größeren Auslasses) es geht aber auch der Dieseltank - optional bigger tank from WBX but the diesel tank works.
- Gaszug des Golf - throttle cable from golf
- Luftfilter: Hier habeich das Kit vom K&N verwendet: 57-0060 (Golf III GTI -08/94) - air filter (he used a K&N)
- falls noch passender (Luft) Schlauch benötigt wird: Sandtler FlexiSil 70mm Nr. 43001070 - as required flexible air hose
oder man wirft einen Blick in die Kategorie “Luftansaugung” - hier sind interessante Lösungen vorgestellt die besser als Flexsil funktionieren.
Or find a different solution, there is a sub-category on the site.

Neu kaufen!: Buy new!
Verteilerkappe, Finger, Zündkerzen … dizzy, rotor, plugs
- Lastrelais vom Golf: Relais 30 und 167: relays from golf
- Teilenummer Relais 30: 165 906 381 relay
- Teilenummer Relais 167: 191 906 383C relay
- OBD Diagnose Buchse Steckergehäuse: Teilenummer: 1H0 972 695 OBD connector housing

- Reparaturlitze 2Stck. (inkl. 4 Stecker) Teilenummer: 000 979 131 - 2 off ??

_robin wrote:Thanks Phil & Mark (yes that was me on the other forum).
Exhaust is looking like the biggest hurdle. I'll take some pictures when it's done and do a write up.
My gearbox is also starting to whine and I've been offered a petrol 5spd one so I may change that too.
I'm looking forward to being able to cruise at 70 and to keeping up with the traffic around town. Can't wait!

On mine I fitted an exhaute from a turbo diesel ( just removed some of the baffles inside it ) and just coupled it up to the GTi down pipe ,,,, What you need is to drain oil from both engines , swap sumps , oil pick up pipe you may have to change the oil pump , water pump auxilary belt pulleys ,, flywheel clutch remember the input bearing in the crank At the time when I did my conversion the local VW dealer did not have the bearing in stock so phoned round and found that an Audi dealer had one ,, cruise at 70 that'll feel like half throtle

Thanks Titus, thats a great site and some very useful info - cheers for the translation.

famous phil wrote:remember the input bearing in the crank

Is that the spigot bearing Phil?

Hi,
I am deep in this conversion at present. One thing you should know is that the inlet manifold does not clear the bodywork at the side of the engine bay.

I am told that on a 2wd vehicle it is possible to hammer a dent in the wheel arch metalwork to create enough space. However, on a syncro the point of conflict is against the chassis rail (the engine sits 50mm lower) and makes things much more difficult. I am still trying to decide exactly how to get around this. Currently have a MkI manifold in place but still difficulties with throttle body location.

Titus - does the German website say anything about re-forming the bodywork?

Garyd

_robin wrote:Thanks Titus, thats a great site and some very useful info - cheers for the translation.

famous phil wrote:remember the input bearing in the crank

Is that the spigot bearing Phil?

Yes thats the one ,,

In response to the answer above the inlet was tight on mine ( do seem to remember reshaping a small area with a ball pain hammer ) but was a k-jet mechanical injection the throttle body is at the other end of the engine to a 1.6 k-jet

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