Club 80-90 Forums

I'm about to get a set of Mercedes Alloys, 7X16 ET37 5/112 PCD.

Will these go straight on my bus even if it's had a 60mm lowering?

and how do I know if I'll need longer studs?

Sorry - bit thick!

These wheels would fit nice , not 100% sure but think you will need 10mm spacer , which will mean longer studs on the back and front stud conversion from http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php?k ... hop.browse" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (reccomended )for the front

sure if I'm wrong someone will be along to correct

dwayne wrote:These wheels would fit nice , not 100% sure but think you will need 10mm spacer , which will mean longer studs on the back and front stud conversion from http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php?k ... hop.browse" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (reccomended )for the front

sure if I'm wrong someone will be along to correct

I was hoping that with an ET of 37 I wouldn't need a spacer - wouldn't a 10mm spacer drop me to ET27 - outside of recommended values?

Yes I thought that an ET or between 30-39 was fine any thing over that and you need spacers
cut n pasted from Brick-Yard-

The ET measurement found on a wheel is the distance in millimeters from the bolt face of the wheel to the centre line of the wheel. ET is an abbreviation of a German term laterally meaning "Back Spacing".


T3's that came from the factory with steel wheels have a ET of 39 while T3's that left the factory with alloy wheels came with a ET of 30.
So, in my eyes if you are fitting alternative wheels you should be aiming for anywhere between ET 30 and ET 39. When using a wheel that wasn't designed for the T3 then you are unlikely to get the correct ET, this can be remedied by the use of spacers.

e.g. if your wheel has a ET of 45 then the use of a 10mm spacer shim would reduce the effective ET to 35, which is in the middle of the range of factory wheel offsets and would be acceptable for use.

No issues with that et for those wheels at 60mm

you might have to get the centers bored out to clear your grease caps

think you may need studs etc just down to the difference of thickness of alloys verses steels, but if you look at baxter's " definitive wheel guide" on brickyard, that should tell you the answers to most questions...wig

ET is 1/2 of total equation. Half of wheel width + ET = distance from inside of wheel / clearance from suspension.

If you have a 5.5" (139.7mm) wide wheel and 39mm ET you have 108.85mm.... if you have 6.0" (152.4mm) and 30mm ET you have 106.2mm... if you have a 6.5" (165.1mm) wide wheel and 30mm ET you have 112.55mm.

So the wider the wheel, the less the ET... and that moves the bearing load farther out on the spindle / bearings... putting more load and wear on the suspension and bearings.

Link to drawing of above discription: http://www.needforspeed.co.uk/htmlpages/TechWheels.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Link to calculating: http://volksdevil.com/wheeloffset.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hope that makes sense.

wigster wrote:" definitive wheel guide" on brickyard, that should tell you the answers to most questions...wig

there's a "definitive" guide on here too, that answers all questions.

both in modified and on the wiki

i have those wheels,you need longer studs on the back and longer bolts on the back, plus a 10mm spacer on the front or it will rub against the suspension!