i changed mine last month - along w the slave cylinder -(at the back of the engine) - do the 2 go together? - pretty straightforward -
the reservoir behind the dash -
holds both the clutch n brake fluid -
the brake master cylinder sits under this reservoir -
vehicle on level ground - engine switched off -
(for me - a grey) hose comes down from the side of the reservoir to the clutch master cylinder which is located behind the clutch n brake pedal -
i took off 2 screws and the lower part of the plastic shroud of the steering column - for easier access - small space to work in - but doable -
4 useful tips - uno - dont spare the wd40 - soak the nuts you have to remove some time beforehand - as many times as you can - dos - good to have 13mm spanners that can get into tight spaces - trez (?) - lots of jcloths to soak up the clutch n brake fluid that will inevitably leak as you change cylinders - quatros - whilst performing this piece of work - try and ensure that the reservoir is kept topped up throughout with dot 4 brake n clutch fluid - as you will inevitably lose some of this fluid - will avoid having to bleed brakes as well as clutch - if you manage to keep reservoir reasonably replenished (3 r's) -
pull of hose (as above) from master cylinder end - and plug immediately with an old bolt or rod that will stop the leaking - unscrew the pipe union at the bottom of the cylinder - mine was 17mm - (again - expect some leakage) - and undo the 2 13mm nuts that hold the master cylinder in place - TIP - the new master cylinder comes with small plastic plugs that you have to remove before connecting up with nuts n hoses - these plastic plugs - obviously make ruddy good plugs to stop fluid leaving as you change cylinders -
carefully withdraw the master cylinder - and reconnect the hoses and nuts to the new one - NOTE - on top of the master cylinder is a rubber boot n push rod - the new master cylinder should just push into this rubber boot n push rod mechanism -
av a clear up - make sure everything tightened up nicely -
n onto the bleeding -
phew -
air may have entered the system whilst you have been carrying out this work - will be noticed by clutch/brakes feeling inoperable/stiff/ etc -
at the bottom of the master cylinder you just changed - runs a hose all the way under the van - to the slave cylinder at the back of the engine - on top of the slave cylinder sits the bleed screw for the clutch system - this is a 7mm little screw on top of the slave cylinder - (sometimes - under it's own little dustt cap! - bless!) - if rusted or terry tucked - can be repaced with new ones from JK - GSF - etc for aabout a squid -
again - liberal dose of wd40 for this little screw - if seized - try turning gently in both directions to get some purchase (i love that word) on the screw - just need to release and open the screw a turn or two -
NOTE - keep reservoir topped up THROUGHOUT this bleeding - a pressure bleeding kit to keep reservoir topped up automatically/ and/or a matey is particularly useful for this part of the job - with bleed screw closed and dust cap off - attach a tube to the top of the screw - with the other end of the tube sitting in a clean jar -
unscrew bleed screw one turn - matey steps on pedal - fluid n air flow into the jar - matey keeps holding pedal down - n ensures reservoir stays topped up - you - close bleed screw - matey releases pedal - REPEAT several times - until - the fluid emerging from the screw HAS NO AIR BUBBLES IN IT - may have to do this procedure several times to make sure -
when pedal feels fine - no more air coming through - remove tube - tighten bleed screw GENTLY! - replace dust cap - an av a tidy up -
clutch properly bled? bleed screw nice n tight? master cylinder nice n tight? hoses secure? reservoir topped up to max? check underneath van -any leaks? pedal pressure feels ok? - (if not - BLEED AGAIN - may take several goes) -
if yes to the above - try a safe slow drive on known road - and go through a few gear n clutch changes -
should be smooth -
if any probs - check all connections for security - n BLEED again - took me 3 goes to get just so -
would recommend one of those pressure bleeding kits - good 13mm, 17mm and 7mm spanners - good clutch n brake fluid - lots of cloths for cleaning up - phone number for your local PIRTEK shop (ruddy useful for any hoses should you require replacing any) - new clutch master cylinder - probably - new bleed screw - and some time n patience -
WIKI HERE I COME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
