Syncro Doka metalwork project

[Enzo79]

Luckily the truck hadn't suffered too much in the 6 months it spent outside, and managed just to carry on where I left off.

Dug out all the panels for that side, added them one at a time clamping them together, and then removed the whole lot to drill and hold them together with cleco fixings.



It was the first time I had used it, but had seen all the bodyshops use it... went for 3M 2-pack epoxy panel adhesive, I mainly just wanted it to stop any chance of anything getting in on these seams, plus its good for some of the bits that are hard to get the spot welder too.

Its not cheap, borrowed a gun (as they cost over £100), but it still costs £60 per cartridge of stuff! You are supposed to be able to use it for just sticking on non-structural panels, but you can spot weld through it before it goes off, so went belt and braces.

The panels are a mix of Genuine VW where I could get it, and Klokkerholm where I couldn't. Its only when you start putting the two together that you see the crispness of everything on the Genuine panels, against the slightly less accurate Klokkerholm. Am not saying they are bad, they just aren't quite as good.

[Enzo79]

Pretty happy with my days work...



Just need to Tig it back together where I cut it through the fuel filler opening, hopefully sneak down there for a hour later.

[silverbullet]

I guessed they should be pretty well pure copper. My ARO takes 12mm dia.

Ich fahre einen Bulli. Ich hilfe mir selbst...meistens!

[Enzo79]

Seeing the new black arch against the green paint is making me think of adding a set of the black arch extensions.

[what2do]

Seeing the new black arch against the green paint is making me think of adding a set of the black arch extensions.

How timely, there's some for sale right now!!!

[axeman]

dont know how i missed this for the past 6months. looks as if you doing a grate job keep up the good work.

neil

[Enzo79]

Whats peoples opinions on the black e-coat that's on new panels? Should I take it all off, and go back to bare metal before painting?

I personally think I might trust it on the genuine panels, but don't know if I want to risk it on the klokkerholm.

Maybe I should try some of my primer thinners on it and see if there is any reaction.

[boatbuilder]

Take it off....I grit blasted mine off and as I was doing it I could see it already rusting under the black paint. That was on the klokker panels..I didn't use genuine vw

[Plasticman]

its cack , off with it
mm

[volks_womble]

Mike, does that apply for genuine panels, or just the pattern ones?

ta
Mark

[Plasticman]

most of them ,its mainly a protective coat while in stores/transit etc
mm

[Enzo79]

I went for it with some P80 on a little DA today, and it comes off the Klokkerholm stuff easy, but the Genuine seems a different beast so have left that.

[Plasticman]

i have some new SA panels and yep that seems to be more an etch prime so go to go with
mm

[J P]

Good job! My bed is bad in places but I have some donor 'patches' which may work, but I can see me chasing holes when I come to it so would prefer to completely replace it. What plans do you have for the bed?

[Enzo79]

I have been chipping away at it slowly the last few months making even more holes, but have today just sold my MK2 Golf so now have some £££ to make some real progress.

Have made the decision to make it a 4-door, and have just ordered a rear right door from Mr Baxter, and about to order a load more small panels direct from classic parts in Germany.

What plans do you have for the bed?

I have 3 out of 4 sections as brand new Genuine panels, and a couple of spares to make the missing one from!

The plan is there is a laser cutting place round the corner from where I work, and the idea is to get them to laser it into a big jigsaw to I can make a rear right corner out of a rear left, and then for me to TIG it all back together.