Club 80-90 Forums

To add to the growing list of jobs my van needs doing is this leak from gearbox/cv joint. How bad is this?



Is it this job?

Also unable to undo the non standard engine sump plug. Think it's about 18mm but cant get a socket on it.

Not sure that oil is coming from the gearbox, it does not look wet enough to me
oil leaks from engine get blown forward as the van moves so it could be coming from engine
I would clean it all and then watch where it reappears.

sump looks like an m14 stripped thread that has been tapped m16, then you need a small head or internal hex bolt but somebody has fitted a standard head bolt, get a socket and grind the outer diameter down until it fits, then get a new bolt.

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/s ... rsize.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks itchy. Think the bolt head is 18mm but will measure it properly tomorrow. Hoping it isnt imperial to add to my woes.

Can I jet wash the gearbox in situ?

Gearbox output shaft leak not uncommon though:

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ge ... eak_repair" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

However, do clean the area thoroughly as suggested to be sure.

vw line on weepy gearbox is unless there is a permenant dew drop on the bottom of box and van is marking it's territory then don't bother messing with it
but check level

I had similar dried black oil all over the gearboxand pipes when I got my van
I came to the conclusion it was an old oil leak that was fixed, a garage won't clean it so it stays ( one of the reasons it takes me ages to do a job becuse I have to clean everything)

You may not be so lucky, I don't jetwash water gets in where it should not, can damade seals and it gets it too clean, ideally you want a thin layer of oil to stop corrosion, I'd get under with paraffin or diesel and a dish brush or spray wd40 and leave to soak, best get something a bit oily back on though.

itchyfeet wrote:I had similar dried black oil all over the gearboxand pipes when I got my van. I came to the conclusion it was an old oil leak that was fixed,

Unfortunately I'm unsure whether or not this was there when I bought it. Probably going to have gearbox out for drive shaft seal replacement anyway. If I can find someone reasonable and competent to do the work.

itchyfeet wrote: I don't jetwash water gets in where it should not, can damade seals and it gets it too clean, ideally you want a thin layer of oil to stop corrosion, I'd get under with paraffin or diesel and a dish brush or spray wd40 and leave to soak, best get something a bit oily back on though.

I shouldve known that, I wouldnt jetwash my kid's bike wheels!

Thanks for the reply.

re the sump bolt, put my top of the line gauge on it, its 18mm

If you are confident it's 18mm then buy a cheap 18mm socket and take a bench grinder to the outer diameter
you could try a box spanner but probably still need grinding down

possible its not tight at all as the person who fited it would struggle to tighten it, try a open ended spanner vertical and then an adjustable on the open ended

Do check that none of the gearbox section joints are weeping!
This happens due to age & corrosion after 20 years or so and if the level drops too much can be game over. ..
If after a clean and a good run there is oil around any of the transverse sectional casing joints first try nipping all the M8 bolts up.. they loosen as the casings corrode.
However it is likely the shaft seal is leaking and as said it depends on degree. If the CVJ is badly worn that doesn't help due to whirl and inbalance.
Another point us that it isn't just about the seals.. Aidan Talbot here will tell you that the shaft itself depends on internal bearings in the diff ? for concentric running which will eventually compromise even new seals if worn excessively.
However follow advice first and try to check the gbox oil level... its rare for garages and some owners to check and be aware over years that oil disappears slowlt but steadily. Finally, don't drain the gearbox oil until you have loosen the level filler plug.

My point is that looks dry
a current oil leak would look wet

Thanks all for your comments. Obviously I dont know enough about this to know if the oil has come from gearbox/cv or somewhere else but it's good to know the different possibilities. I'm going to pay someone to fit driveshaft seals & clutch. I'll get them to have a look at the cv joints at the same time.

Spent a long time unsuccessfully trying to grind a chrome socket with a dremel today. Maybe try to find a cheap one as suggested. And a bigger grinder.

Do you need a clutch?
If you are not sure don't be in a hurry to spend loads of money, you may not need it done and it could cost quite a bit if you start saying things like.. take a look at the cvs and do what you think needs doing...they will see you coming.

Grinder is something like this, often in lidl or probably get one in toolstation
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-150MM-BEN ... 2ec19e3044" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

did you trg the spanners?

bite point is high so maybe need clutch? I figured if the gearbox has to come out for seals might as well get it done. it was within the budget but could do without cv needing doing. I take your point about not saying "do whatever needs doing". but I do seem to have a growing list of things that need doing. water pump needs replacing before this. going to have a go a that myself.

tried adjustable spanner and long-nosed pliers. couldnt get them on. I think bench grinder is probably the way to go.

thanks itchy

You don't know you need oil seals yet
you may have a budget but don't $punk it all on things you don't need
that oil looks dry hard and crusty not a sign of a fresh oil leak, add that to a sump plug thats been changed leads me to suspect old oil leak from sump, I may be wrong but clean first and monitor is the right thing to do