Club 80-90 Forums

OK - So Mr Haynes says there should be two screws holding on my rear brake drum. As you can see I have none . How do I get this thing off? Ive tried some gentle persuasion with rubber mallet however it feels pretty solid!
All help appreciated

hand brake off and adjust the shoes all the way back in via the small hole on the back, rather fiddly but it does adjust in

Even then with shoes backed off, a few clouts with a lump hammer rather than a rubber one are sometimes the only way to get them off, particularly if they haven't been removed in living memory. Just make sure vehicle is well supported.

As above, but only really necessary to adjust them if your drums are very worn and/or badly adjusted.
Before you try 'unadjusting' them first, a smart tap around edges with a hammer usually frees them off.
Once you get the whole thing apart, replace worn and rusted parts and get the shoes and cables adjusted correctly then future brake services every year become a doddle.
Good luck

The reason I was going to take them off was to give them a lick of hammerite. Am I right in thinking that if I adjust the brakes to get the drums off I will need to make sure they are adjusted back to how they were - is this a possible 'world of pain' for someone who has not done it before?

Yes you will need to adjust them
http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/rear- ... ust#236749" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

id have thought taking them off to inspect the shoes and hydraulic cylinders for leaks would be top agenda.

I had to replace all the shoes and cylinders recently as the cylinders had leaked slightly and contaminated the shoes.

when you look into the hole with the adjuster you see a cog, move the teeth up to release and down to tighten the adjuster same both sides as the os is a left hand thread

drum retaining bolts are often removed for alloys

fairwynds wrote:As above, but only really necessary to adjust them if your drums are very worn and/or badly adjusted.
Before you try 'unadjusting' them first, a smart tap around edges with a hammer usually frees them off.

the drum should self adjust due to wear
I have never seen a drum without a wear lip that will stop it coming off without adjustment, if it comes of with just a whack then something is wrong!

Im a mechanic by trade by the way!

Good skills - looks simple enough (last famous words) - will get cracking tomorrow Cheers

I shall be doing mine this week, plan to put Keif in for MOT on Saturday

Adjuster 'cog' as seen from the rear before drum is off and 2nd pic from inside
Using a screwdriver push the teeth up to release through the hole and down to tighten the handbrake one the drums are back on

Cheers for the photos - v useful to know. I'm no expert but those internals look well looked after - is that copper grease on the cog?

Yes copper grease
dont mess about with those tiny tubes from halfrauds
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carlube-Coppe ... 27c5da5a2e" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

thats after overhaul, cylinders were leaking so new shoes and cylinders needed
i also took the opertunity to wire brush and treat the back plates with vactan rust treatment, they will rust away if left

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VACTAN-RUST-C ... 19d8ee0839" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Good pics there itchy feet think this will help me when i change mine

Got loads more
Dont forget the wiki
https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Br ... _servicing" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

jamesc76 wrote:

fairwynds wrote:As above, but only really necessary to adjust them if your drums are very worn and/or badly adjusted.
Before you try 'unadjusting' them first, a smart tap around edges with a hammer usually frees them off.

the drum should self adjust due to wear
I have never seen a drum without a wear lip that will stop it coming off without adjustment, if it comes of with just a whack then something is wrong!

Im a mechanic by trade by the way!

Guess I'm just lucky then