Club 80-90 Forums

Hi folks
I recently bought a t25. One of its issues seems to be that the fuel gauge only goes up halfway even when the tanks full, it does seems to engage once the fuels below half. Is this likely to be a faulty sender? & if so how tricky is the job? Can it be replaced on the side of the road? Do I need to remove the whole fuel tank?
Also, whilst replacing the brake pads yesterday I noticed that the brake fluid reservoir cap has an electrical connector but there was nothing connected? Should I assume a cable has been lost somewhere behind the dash?
Any tips would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Dan

photosolo wrote:Also, whilst replacing the brake pads yesterday I noticed that the brake fluid reservoir cap has an electrical connector but there was nothing connected? Should I assume a cable has been lost somewhere behind the dash?
Any tips would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Dan

Yes there should be a connector

Found the missing brake fluid cable! It had dropped into the dash.

My fuel gauge is similar, stutters to reach halfway when full and after 100+ miles or so it shows as 1/4 of a tank.

I'm looking at it as being a sender issue, but it looks like you need to earth the sender and see what effect it has on the gauge. Not had chance to look at it yet and won't be able to for a couple of weeks, so would be interested if you get yours sorted

Has anyone ever changed their fuel sender?

you must have missed this in the wiki when you searched

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Fu ... nk_removal" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks for the helpful wiki link on his to remove a fuel tank.
But the question was can you replace the fuel sender without removing the tank?

photosolo wrote:Thanks for the helpful wiki link on his to remove a fuel tank.
But the question was can you replace the fuel sender without removing the tank?

I think the pictures answer that...no

Apologies I seem to have started a thread on the wrong website. I was looking for a VW T25 enthusiasts site with helpful friendly advise. But I've accidentally stumbled upon a sarcastic nob head site for people who have nothing better to do with their time than respond with "pooh" sarcastic comments!
My fault, thanks for making it crystal!

You could cut a hole in the floor if you really didn't want to remove the tank but it would be v risky... I heard of someone who claims to have done it but Id not even try it

I had similar symptoms: needle would only work when the tank was between full and about 1/3 full. A new sender fixed it.
I was able to install it without completely removing the tank. I cheated by using 2 jacks, one at the front and one at the rear, I only partially lowered the front one and lowered the rear one almost completely until I could reach in to the sender. It was still a very tricky job, it gives you very little access. Also this way there's more risk of dirt/rust falling into the tank after you've taken off the old sender.

If I was doing it again I'd go the whole way and completely drop the tank. That way you could clean and paint the top of the tank when its down. The tanks almost always fail from rust holes on the top as it's a water trap.