Club 80-90 Forums

the timingmarks on my van is diferent from the ones ilustrated in my workshop manual.
acording to the book. the small bump on the outer rim of the pulley should be aligned with the center joint of the enginehousing and then the sharper v-shaped mark slightly before.

but on my pulley the marks are opposite. the small bump on center housing not only causes car to die. it then has the sharper v-shaped mark infront of it.

anyone who ca link me to some youtubeclip or proper instruktion manual?

my car is a 85 syncro with a 1,9 l carburated 75 hp engine
hoping for answer since the sweding vw page regarding theese busses isnt really upp for the task

I dont think it is possible to fit backwards? Did you disconnect and plug the vacuum advance on the distributer? and connect idle stabilisation plugs together?

Hang on, I have read on here, about some pulleys being marked like that, I think it was to do with, no cannot remember, off for a search, back soon.

Back now, found this in our wiki = https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Pe ... 1.9_Timing" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; but that article is NOT a very good source of general information for normal 1.9DG (carb) engines as it refers to a (rare'ish) DH engine.

However, it does remind us that normal UK spec 1.9DG's are timed at 5 deg BTDC with vac pipes disconnected, but some, including the common (earlier) DF are timed at 5 degrees ATDC with the vac pipes connected. So the pulley wheels there, whilst likely interchangeable would have the marks the opposite way round. Like I say, I have read about this on here before, but cannot find it...

I know what I would do = is get / borrow / go to garage, and use one of those timing guns you can pre set the advance up on. You then disconnect the vac pipe, set the gun up for 5 DEG BTDC and point it at the pulley. At this point the TDC mark on the pulley should line up with the case line (the adjustable timing gun making this happen).

Hope that helps.

p.s. - Another method is the "set it so the engine pinks under heavy load, then back it off a little" method this is what we do with "classic" motorbikes and cars

E D I T = I just noticed you say your motor is 75 BHP, is your motor a DF code then ? 85 car so it could be. (if so timing should be 5 degrees ATDC with the vac pipes connected)

my engine is a DG089076.
also noticed that the injekted motor in the manual has the sam type of pulley

Agree with Ghost on timing. Sometimes the only sure way is to get it to pink under load then back it off until it doesn't. This tends to establish the sweet spot for that particular engine in the absence of more expensive timing gear. Had to do this many times in 25 years, even when the notches said otherwise.

Those marks are not 100% accurate - merely a base point to work from but in some instances they just don't work or someone has changed the wheel. After all, some of these engines have been re-manufactured a number of times and there is no guarantee that the wheel on there is the one it started out with. That and other changes to the engine (including dizzy type) may make the marks unreliable

pink under the load meand that it...?

pinking (or pinging) is the name given to the sound when the timing is not correct. here's a description http://www.peugeotlogic.com/info/info1.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

have a search on you tube

Hacksawbob wrote:have a search on you tube

Bound to be stuff there to help you learn what it means

More here, though a bit of a lot of information to read = http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking

Basically, if the ignition is a bit too far advanced, when you load the engine (throttle to the floor at low revs) it makes a noise like a marble tapping on glass (or similar ) this means the spark is occurring just a little too early. You then set the timing back (retard it = by rotating the distributor, a couple of degrees only, anti-clockwise) a little at a time until no matter how hard you push the throttle the noise does not happen. Then it will be about right to use.

thanks guys.
only result ive had with turning the distributor has resulted in the engine dying. sounds like it gets to much gas or air. guessing ive been turning it the wron way hehe.
ill try your way as soon as i get my spares and have drained the tank of old gas.
is there a drainplug under there somewhere? havent found any but it might be im looking in the wrong spot.?
manual pics tell of some kind of valve/plug under the integrated expansion tank but im afraid to take that of just yed hehe. stuf under there is kinda rusted hehe.

think ill be getting a drilloperated pump and shove a hose down the tank?

No drain plug on the gas tank.

that kinda sucks.. what if I or "someone" accidentally filled it up with diesel?
not saying that i did...

Pump it out with an electric fuel pump borrowed off another car

or suck and spit like crazy

ghost123uk wrote:Pump it out with an electric fuel pump borrowed off another car

p.s. = using the existing pumps feed pipe, not like dipping a tube into the tank which would be silly

CovKid wrote:or suck and spit like crazy

Jeez, hate doing that, the taste stays for AGES

ghost123uk wrote:

ghost123uk wrote:Pump it out with an electric fuel pump borrowed off another car

p.s. = using the existing pumps feed pipe, not like dipping a tube into the tank which would be silly

CovKid wrote:or suck and spit like crazy

Jeez, hate doing that, the taste stays for AGES

why would it be silly to put the tube into the tank?