for questions and answers about alternative power transplants on the T25, GTi, Porsche,Subaru etc, this is the place. You must register to post but anyone can read.
metalmick8y wrote:While heelp is admirable,maybe in this case with the op,s lack of fundamental knowledge is it not a case of getting a mobile mech to come out, there's a few inn York as this looks like more probs are being created than solved
mm
Any idea of the sort of cost that would be though?
Also I need to learn some way, and via the frying pan seems to be a good as method as any
Last edited by MarrV on 05 Jun 2014, 09:09, edited 1 time in total.
MarrV wrote:8 weeks ago when we first started is ran for ~1 then died.
Happened a few times before it would not catch again.
So this may be important, are you saying this has happened before but it recovered itself?
So Katie was told by the lady she brought it off
itchyfeet wrote:
air leak on manufold, well im thinking if you try chucking a bit more fuel down the carb ( not too much) then even with an air leak you should get at least a little fire, signs of catching, you report nothing which implies ignition, you have had the carb off though so dont rule this out, after chucking some more fuel in and cranking, remove the plugs and check if they are bone dry or smell of petrol
i have read that a spark plug firing in air may not be firing under compression in the cylinder if the spark is weak,
Shall try more fuel & check spark plugs now. Dry I assume means air leak?
Last edited by MarrV on 05 Jun 2014, 09:12, edited 1 time in total.
Aye, tis frustrating. I have had the same motor in our Scirocco for many years and know it pretty well. But I am too far away
mrhutch wrote:
Someone who knows the basics of the I4 VW lumps will be able to
[1] set TDC (not relying on flywheel marks etc...)
Number 1 plug out and use your thumb to block the plug hole to establish when it is coming up on the compression stroke, then use a bit of flexible plastic tube (long enough so you cannot drop it all into the cylinder !!) to establish TDC. Some folks use a screwdriver down the plug hole (after getting it on the compression stroke) but I prefer the bit of plastic tube = safer imho
Might be worth checking this re the possibility of the dizzy being 180 degrees out (though I know it was mentioned ^^^). Just trying to work out the maths in my head, if 180 out, does that equate to firing on all the exhaust strokes (not compression strokes) ?
Last edited by ghost123uk on 05 Jun 2014, 09:15, edited 1 time in total.
ghost123uk wrote:Aye, tis frustrating. I have had the same motor in our Scirocco for many years and know it pretty well. But I am too far away
mrhutch wrote:
Someone who knows the basics of the I4 VW lumps will be able to
[1] set TDC (not relying on flywheel marks etc...)
Number 1 plug out and use your thumb to block the plug hole to establish when it is coming up on the compression stroke, then use a bit of flexible plastic tube (long enough so you cannot drop it all into the cylinder !!) to establish TDC. Some folks use a screwdriver down the plug hole (after getting it on the compression stroke) but I prefer the bit of plastic tube = safer imho
Aye ironically finding TDC was one of the first things I learnt... I just hoped I wouldnt need to use it soon
mrhutch wrote:
[1] set TDC (not relying on flywheel marks etc...)
Number 1 plug out and use your thumb to block the plug hole to establish when it is coming up on the compression stroke, then use a bit of flexible plastic tube (long enough so you cannot drop it all into the cylinder !!) to establish TDC. Some folks use a screwdriver down the plug hole (after getting it on the compression stroke) but I prefer the bit of plastic tube = safer imho
Might be worth checking this re the possibility of the dizzy being 180 degrees out (though I know it was mentioned ^^^). Just trying to work out the maths in my head, if 180 out, does that equate to firing on all the exhaust strokes (not compression strokes) ?
MarrV wrote:
The dizzy was 180 degrees out - switch leads to match dizzy's no#1 position?
Ah ha, yes Just take your time and double check all the positions re firing order, rotor arm position relative to plug lead etc.
Done, placed no#1 lead over no#1 posistion & firing order following 1 3 4 2.
Turned over & not firing so recharging the battery as fell asleep before getting it done last night.
On the side hunting down mobile mechanics so once I have worked through the list of things to do on here if still no luck will give one of them a call out & admit defeat
Last edited by MarrV on 05 Jun 2014, 10:06, edited 1 time in total.
MarrV wrote:Done as told; found TDC (on the cylinder wasn't as precise as I imagined - piston stays @ highest position for a while)
That is normal, angular momentum and all that trigonometry stuff.
MarrV wrote:Also when manually cranking is it normal for the effort required to be variable? (basically gets harder & then suddenly easier & then harder again)
Do you mean when turning with a spanner etc (rather than off the key), if so then yes.
I suspect what you are feeling is the compression as each cylinder comes up to it's firing stroke. Do "we" guess this (how an engine works) is all new to you ?
Then my misses brought a t2 late bay, so I started to learn. Mainly as its starter motor & ignition switch died so had to do fault finding & fixing on those
Then it failed its MoT (needs welding, which is the summer project after this)
Then brought this T25 - which stopped working 8 weeks ago.
I am not normally slow & can get my head around nearly everything (knew the physics & theory behind an internal combustion engine) but I am bipolar so my mind doesn't work constantly well. Also as I try to look after my misses who has CFS/ME I can get tired/distracted when she has a bad turn. So please bear with me at times
Basically I am going from knowing the theory behind the engine to how it works in practice & physically dealing with an engine. The latter two being very different to the former. So yes a beginner but have a lot of time on my hands and I need to learn this anyway...
***E D I T the is beer/ale in this for all you guys when we meet you - I assume at a VW meet? ***
Hey, no problem, we have been with you for about 7 pages so far We don't ever give up
MarrV wrote:Basically I am going from knowing the theory behind the engine to how it works in practice & physically dealing with an engine. The latter two being very different to the former.
Too true, but it's fun and good for the soul to fully understand "what is what" or so I find anyway
MarrV wrote:***E D I T the is beer/ale in this for all you guys when we meet you - I assume at a VW meet? ***
That'll cost you, have you seen us drinking at meets
Bet you can't wait for that battery to charge up !! Be patient though, having it look promising, as in trying to fire up, then the battery dying again is so frustrating !!
MarrV wrote:***E D I T the is beer/ale in this for all you guys when we meet you - I assume at a VW meet? ***
That'll cost you, have you seen us drinking at meets
If you drink more than my family you guys must have gills!
ghost123uk wrote:
Bet you can't wait for that battery to charge up !! Be patient though, having it look promising, as in trying to fire up, then the battery dying again is so frustrating !!
Tried it before remembering I had not charged it, it didn't fire but did sound different. Will get misses to turn it over while I stand @ engine once its charged to get better idea if anything ahs changed. Have to head to Cumbria in an hour or so & back again today so might not be able to get back on the van til tomorrow morning.
Just been doing some background reading & have noticed - the is no backplate above the camshaft sprocket - it lifts off together with the top half cover. the only mark on the sprocket is a small dimple on the outer edge near the teeth, but the is nothing corresponding to it on the block. Isn't this abnormal?
Before anyone has panic'd NO I HAVE NOT removed or touched anything to do with the timing belt etc, just observed