The MALLYVAGON

[Wychall]

Sounds like you need an Ad Blocker in your internet browser Mike. I don't see any of those ads or pop-ups on mine.

[Plasticman]

which do i try, im running vesda lol
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[AdrianC]

which do i try, im running vesda lol

Firefox and AdBlockPlus works beautifully here.

[Plasticman]

tried f fox , didnt like it, IE and google it is
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[AdrianC]

tried f fox , didnt like it, IE and google it is

That's probably half of your problem. IE just isn't designed to have add-ons, like other browsers are - so any adblocker or the like just can't integrate as well. B'sides, most of the people who use adblockers and the like don't use IE, so there's not so much demand. Which, from a quick google, leads to the ones there are not being much cop - and being paid-for rather than free...
http://adblockplus.org/blog/adblock-for ... -an-option" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
gives a bit more detail, if you care.

Have another crack with Firefox or Chrome or Opera or any other browser... They all have decent blockers.

[Plasticman]

Well as i was saying earlier there is a good old bulge at the rear, ive highlighted it with marker pen. so will end up stripping the 1/4 back anyway

side ready to fix permanently.sorry its in an odd order but i uploaded 12 picks, and as per usual they are mixed throughout 8 pages of pee bucket even though ive ticked the box to sort via newest first.

just for interest, whilst we struggle at times to line up swage lines and the like this is factory alignment the rest of the panal is 100% correct, sometimes there is no hope

bottom of wing to rear jp etc is a nice fit with good clean metal behind, ive not used weldthru here as im dosing it from inside when welded and hot

on with making the sill closure plates, this is the first cut with the only work being to fold the lip at the rear of the B post to allow it to fit into place

same at the rear

the more intricate part is not welded to the C post its just covered in seant by vw so thats what i do......

now ready for the swages to be formed

you get to this stage and ensure it all fits nice where it should then mark it to drill for welding ,

will try take the next bit by phone, if not then tommorow.
this last pick is the rear wing where it joins the C post , this is welded and then when you align the centre(frisge) panal you weld to the wing and through it to the C post as well, a few good tacks are all that is required

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[Plasticman]

Agreed adrian.
its knowing what to run /use, i really hated firefox, just didnt like the way it worked etc.
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[Plasticman]

Well out today earlier at an un named shop place and told a mate there that the locasl joskins are planting spuds and i want some, well a few hours later this was left in the boot of my car

noooooo

very nice good sized seed spuds ,be interesting to see how these perform compared to other seed ones i have
right phone picks
this is the front part now drilled and ready to weld

same at the rear

its important to swage stuff in this way so the new metal fits correctly on the sill top in this case,
overall

you will notice the fine scratch lines , i use a divider to mark the hole runs and then space them equally , i know its not required but it looks neater and it how i got used to doing it on another part of my life lol
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[kevtherev]

I still have the rear 1/4 mike...

mates rates

[Plasticman]

oh i know but its the lesser of two evils and i think i made the right choice on this one but i have absolutelly no doubts that i will be need in a rea 1/4 soon.....
well at long last a nice package arrived from my homeland,

look at that wrapping,jk take note amongst others, we pay good money for stuff

joy of joys,perfect
will post up the rest of today after tea
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[Plasticman]

right i spent 40 minutes struggling to do a long post and it has locked up and forze so lost the lot,gonna run a m,alware scan through this as its getting too much trouble to be bothered,

[Plasticman]

right have a nother go ,but i will do it in short bits then wont end up loosing the lot maybe
on this van the middle panal is quite good save for the very bottom so no point chopping more of than needed, i have a half doz lowers that i rolled and made earlier but they are all taller and some have the extended bottom lip so i have butchered one
time is to be taken to fit it little by little and only when the panal fits prefect or as near as should you spend time on detail bits and drilling countless holes.
heres where we are


you will see that i have joddled the panal bottom not the new part, i have done it this way because the new item is short and i need it to be pulled into the old and have a certain tension to help maintain the shape/profile of the whole. if i joddled the new part it would have to fit behind and it would be difficult to ngain a clean shape without loads of filler
this is looking at the outside, i have loosely clamped it to make final marks for trimming and the like and to make sure the fold is the correct angle. too much and it causes the whole to deform inwards. too little and its as bad the other way

now i could say dammit and empathise with the previous shonker and to that end i have screwed a b it of tannalised tilelatt to the base and will apply steel mesh then p40..hope he dont see this ,he'll get ideas above his abilities

so discard that idea and im left with a mating face like this

the slit on the left i will gas up and the chamfer the same and it will all be flush with the b post, and as this seam here was ok i chose to do this as opposed to going right up to the b post ,
right will post this before it goes walkies and do the next bit
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[Plasticman]

well I meant the slit on the right.
i have added a small brace which rests against the outer sill and is tacked wherever,in this case the top of the innersill/floor, you need to do mthis to prevent the sill curving inwards as heat is applied, it only needs light finger pressure and then check with a good straightedge,

starting to clamp up and check for fit again,

ive wound the mig up to about 150 ish as i want really quick tacks, they dont have to be things of beauty, but they must be welds and quick

these next 2 are with the new part welded to the sill but not the old panal,its just sat in that position as a result of the angle i made the lower joining fold,note there are no signs of heat on the join which is borne out by the lack of any distortion


and the inside

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[Plasticman]

well nearly
also by doing it this way you have virtually no work to do with the makita just a touch over

these few are not as good as i got careless and they were not clamped 100% so there is a slight uneveness but it will sand and hammer correct

all done

dont be tempted to weld a bit on the sill join and then a bit on the panal as this will confuse the metal , it needs welding to the sill first as this is also a lip and can be controlled easy enough , then when done an cooled a bit and here you can use heat and an airline to move sheet about but thats another story yopu clamp a known fixed correct bit of steel to another fairly fixed one and if youve done it right they will fight each other and cancell out, well thats the plan you work to anyhow and how i was taught.
i have now removed the brace, but prior to doing so i checked it and the panal was just still touching so hadnt bowed out and on removing it stayed the same place so success there which is alweays nice..heres a view down the length of it

this is the inside, i will run a disc over the welds, the closure plates will need a small fold just where they fir over the sill/side join and of course they will need more drilling , thsnkgod for the pillar drill...

so all in all a happy time was had
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[b-f-c]

Loving this thread. Learning a whole new way of how it should be done, thanks.