Club 80-90 Forums

I've done the rear shafts a couple times, not too bad. Just that every time I've done them the bashplate has already been off as has other stuff. Fronts are a major pain!

If its worth anything Lloyd, I can do both my rear shafts with the larger bash plate without removing anything else.

Obviously I'm on 14" shafts and joints though.

Going to use some preloved Porsche ones will have them with me at CF for ye to have a look at

Has anyone used these ones? http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Volks ... 045&000445" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; there is an extra 20% off when you use discount code spring20 and they do free deliver as well. They do the GKN boots for the same price but I dont fancy using them now for obvious reasons.

Jed

Well, ive had a good look at all the cv boots before ordering the right amount..
As mentioned previously 3 of the rear boots need replacing. But i have also seen a front inner is just starting to go, its perishing (rubber cracking) and has a tiny split which has not yet "gone through" but it's on borrowed time.. This front inner is a newish boot as i replaced the inner and outer boot on that side probably a year and a half ago. The front outer is still fine on that side. The inner and outer on the other side are absolutely fine even though the outer is the original and inner could well be too.
I think that last sentence says it all really, i'll be phoning VW in the morning and ordering from them. I have 3 rear gkn and a front inner gkn on my shelf, really don't know if i want to fit them though. Hopefully VW have a better quality one....

Also, i had a good read of that IG16 thread. The OEM VW ones come out best, but it also mentions a important thing. That is to make sure the folds on the cv boot do not touch, he uses copper wire, but i'm sure a cable tie would work just as well

Some boots were fitted with nylon rings to prevent the above...don't ask what on as can't remember...o rings might do the job...

lloydy wrote: That is to make sure the folds on the cv boot do not touch, he uses copper wire, but i'm sure a cable tie would work just as well

If you have the cable tie tightening too it should work, otherwise Im not so sure.

Sorry, don't quite get what you mean there? Ah! Maybe you meant cable tightening tool?

I've been having a look at Audi 100 stuff. Two other brands I have found are Febi/bilstein, and Meyle.
The Febi/bilstein boot is £16 and the Meyle is £35 inc a 108mm CVJ.
You can also pick up complete drive shafts off a Audi 100 for about £30 (second hand) which should have a genuine cv and boot on it.

16" rear boots (Audi 100/A6) £25.70+VAT each.. Four will be paid for later today, lets hope they are good!

jed the spread wrote:Has anyone used these ones? http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Volks ... 045&000445" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; there is an extra 20% off when you use discount code spring20 and they do free deliver as well. They do the GKN boots for the same price but I dont fancy using them now for obvious reasons.

Jed

i cant remember if they were the same brand as you have found the link too, but when i first bought my van i fitted ones from euro car parts, and they were fine, lasted a couple of years with out issue. it was the joint that filed and ripped the boot apart.

neil

Well, just paid for the vw boots, £123 in total for 4 boots! Been promised they are not GKN............
Shame the front inners are obsolete, so will have to stick to GKN.

lloydy wrote:Sorry, don't quite get what you mean there? Ah! Maybe you meant cable tightening tool?

I've been having a look at Audi 100 stuff. Two other brands I have found are Febi/bilstein, and Meyle.
The Febi/bilstein boot is £16 and the Meyle is £35 inc a 108mm CVJ.
You can also pick up complete drive shafts off a Audi 100 for about £30 (second hand) which should have a genuine cv and boot on it.

I thing paddy may be thinking the copper wire was used to hold the boot on...not to separate the folds...I was baffled as well!

On the IG thread the copper wire is used to keep the boot elongated so the ribs don't touch, not in the folds. There is a couple pics on the last few pages of the link. The 16" boot doesn't have a clamp as standard, just relies on friction/tightness of boot

No clamp at all? Or just the small end? ...where's these pics at ?..now I'm I'm more baffled!

No clamp on the small end, far right is the 16" boot. Its like a double chamber boot, first section is the main boot, which has quite a tight seal to the shaft apart from a small 'run' leading into the bobble bit. This has a small air hole to stop a vacuum forming. The cvj is sealed to the flange with a cork seal

on this pic you can see where a homemade wire clip has been used to ensure the boot doesn't bunch uo