Gearbox removal

[1_eyed_jim]

don't change the gearbox selector shaft seal unless it's leaking, as the one that's available now isn't the original one and doesn't fit correctly (we are hassling classic/elring to get the correct one available again) and get the boot for the ball and the selector shaft if they are missing or split

Yes they are also in the boot but will remove the selector shaft seal as its not leaking. Thanks

Happy days!

[Hacksawbob]

I

NOTE to all 5 speed owners, remove the earth strap from the mount and put one direct to the starter motor where it belongs and if you get chance take the mount off, remove the corrosion underneath and paint it before putting the mount back on; design flaw 1mm gap for the salty water to sit in between disimilar metals with a 12V potential across them = galvanic corrosion

Wiki'd that

is there a replacement for the nose mount yet?

[1_eyed_jim]

Morning all,

So what's the best way of dealing with this mess....



Thinking remove the drive shaft completely and strip, degrease, regrease and refit? Thinking it carn't be that simple!

Thanks

[Titus A Duxass]

This should point you in the right direction - https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ge ... nts_repair

[1_eyed_jim]

This should point you in the right direction - https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ge ... nts_repair

Excellent thanks

[1_eyed_jim]

So ordered spline replacement bolts for the cv joints but I have lost all the bolts to fit the gearbox to the engine and to the bolts for the front mount of the gearbox!

Don't suppose anyone would know what bolts they are? Really embarrasing I would really appreciate your help

Thanks

[Aidan]

m8x22 HT8.8 N 010 241 18 43p each from VW with washers N 015 401 3 that are more expensive than the bolts

that's the four bolts for the gearbox mount to the chassis

[Hacksawbob]

Hi Aidan, where do you recon a good fix for the starter to earth is? On the diesel it makes sense to go straight to the battery, but the bolts on the gearbox to engine are too big really, 19mm? Any way there is the possibility of the 10mm thread on the back of the starter, the only other things I can think of are a big jubilee clip around the starter or the clutch slave bolts. Any ideas?

I suggest that you lift off first gear and you will probably find that it and the 1st/reverse synchro hub have been having intimate relations without any lubrication between them and are probably both foobarred; that is due to the pinion bearing being more than a little worn; and the box is likely to have been running low oil with that hole in the end so the rest of it is unlikely to be great

mag/ali alloy cases can't readily be repaired due to the mix and the fact that the case will have to be rehardened after repair before machining, if you use ali rods it won't take and will be soft as putty compared to the rest of the case

I don't have any good 5 speed end cases due to the rot problems caused by the earth strap and steel mounting plate

NOTE to all 5 speed owners, remove the earth strap from the mount and put one direct to the starter motor where it belongs and if you get chance take the mount off, remove the corrosion underneath and paint it before putting the mount back on; design flaw 1mm gap for the salty water to sit in between disimilar metals with a 12V potential across them = galvanic corrosion

[Aidan]

get a 12mm eyelet fitted to end of new earth strap and use the starter bolt and go from the battery I'd say, you want same gauge wire as the existing live that's fitted, be worth someone getting some made up proper like really, but I don't do diesel
if you can only get 8mm eyelet then go to one of the four bolts on the bottom of the bellhousing either side of drain plug but that'll mean going through the water pipes

[1_eyed_jim]

m8x22 HT8.8 N 010 241 18 43p each from VW with washers N 015 401 3 that are more expensive than the bolts

that's the four bolts for the gearbox mount to the chassis

Excellent thank you

[1_eyed_jim]

Received my order from Brickwerks last night and decided to crack on with replacing the output shaft seals. Was greated with chewed up screws for the dust cap If you don't know which ones I mean they are these (image from Wiki)......



Ordered 4 replacements from Ebay they are M7X16 with a 1mm pitch. Could not find philps head ones though so I guess hex heads are ok??

Next thing I need to order is the fitting that connects the plastic clutch pipe to the slave cylinder. Having trouble finding this one! Anyone know where I could get it?

Thanks

[Hacksawbob]

Brickwerks do it in stainless though.

[Aidan]

they're m7x1.25 the originals, coars thread ideal for wicking salt water down and corroding
I use the irwins to get them out and bin them then retap the case at m7x1mm and use hex head machine screws from Wurth

[1_eyed_jim]

they're m7x1.25 the originals, coars thread ideal for wicking salt water down and corroding
I use the irwins to get them out and bin them then retap the case at m7x1mm and use hex head machine screws from Wurth

Oh dear sounds like I need to buy a tap now then haha oh the joys!

Still cannot find the union for the slave cylinder. Looked on Brickwerks but all I can see are the M12X1. These look like they are for a solid line. Mines a white plastic pipe. Think I need the same thread but a male at the other end for the pipe to push on???

[1_eyed_jim]

Evening all.

Got to the stage now where the gearbox is ready to go on the van. Looking great BTW! Anyway removed all the CV joints and cleaned them up. 2 of them have pitting on the inner race and need replacing the other 2 have no pitting on the inner race but signs of wear on the cage. Money is tight at the minute and thinking of doing 1 of 2 things. Either replace the 2 knackered ones with OEM's from Brickwerks OR replace all 4 for non OEM from Ebay! Can you have 2 new and 2 old ones on the van? Would you just put the 2 on the one drive shaft or doesn't it matter?

Ta