1.9DG to 21.MV Info

[HarryMann]

end float is critical on these engines, that must be within spec after shimming at the flywheel end

[fix]

what do you want from it? at the start of the thread you wanted an engine you knew inside and out. i would be wanting to strip it, take it to a good engineering shop and have it all measured.get the barells and pistons checked and fit new bearings to the crank, big ends and cam. a full gasket set and away you go with confidence.the engineering shop will advise you if your crank needs grinding and the bearings needed if its done. its not a diy job. end float will need to be reset with shims if the crank is reground. it will be worth it in the long run.

I know what youre saying and yes i would like and engine i know inside and out, just the extra cost is going to be anywhere from £150 to £300 if the crank is checked.

Yes I will have peace of mind i just dont know in my situation if its worth the expense or not (waits to be shot down )

I just rang an engineering shop who said inspection would be free (which is suprising!), if the crank needed regrinding it would be about £100.

So that would be bearings plus rod bolts plus crank regrinding at a total of roughly about £280, a best case scenario would be about £180 without the grinding.

I suppose i should look at it as £180 is bearable, if its £280 then the work needed doing and the engine would be unreliable without it.

I just look like a cheap skate, its just the crank feels as tight as a nuns crotch

[ricicles]

away with you and your nuns parts 280 quid for a sound bottom end. do it

[fix]

Slight change of plan.


Ive just picked up a balanced crank,conrods,pulleys and flywheel tonight

All done at a machine shop, the crank has been checked and doesnt need grinding

Got the lot plus a full gasket set for £110 from a top guy on here


So now i can order the conrod bolts and bearings then put the crank back together!

[Aidan]

sounds good

[ricicles]

happy days

[fix]

I just thought if i buy the balanced stuff atleast i know its all ok, althoughmore expensive than if my crank didnt need any work and less than if it needed grinding but with the benefit of all being balanced

One thing i noticed when buying the stuff is the balanced flywheel is missing the metal rings that sit in the holes where the flywheel bolts go through (dowels?) I guess they keep the flywheel bolts in place.

Im not sure if they are necessary once the flywheel is tightened, ill get a pic up tonight.


E D I T: Ive seen flywheel dowel pins listed on vw heritage so i guess thats them!

[toomanytoys]

Eh?? Sure its a 2.1 crank? that was bloomin cheap... lucky git...

Dowels? Er no.. there is only 1 small locator pin to make sure its in the correct position..
Dowel pins from VWH will be type 1 items as they have 4 std or are drilled for 8 if modded.. you should have 5 large bolts

[fix]

Eh?? Sure its a 2.1 crank? that was bloomin cheap... lucky git...

Dowels? Er no.. there is only 1 small locator pin to make sure its in the correct position..
Dowel pins from VWH will be type 1 items as they have 4 std or are drilled for 8 if modded.. you should have 5 large bolts

Yep definately a 2.1 crank it has the green paint on it

I looked at the wrong things on VWH yes i can see theres only 1 locator pin, thats not what i mean.

Ill get a pic up tomorrow.

[fix]

Heres a picture of my old flywheel.



See the holes where the bolts go in, the balanced flywheel is missing the shiny bits.


Also ive been cleaning up the cases and noticed on one of the water jackets where the gasket will sit abit of metal has worn and come away, do you guys think this will be ok? The face of the jacket is still there but not as flat as it should be, i thought about using abit of quiksteel (metal putty stuff) to make the surface flat again.



I just want to make sure the rubber gasket seals properly.

[toomanytoys]

Unless my eyes have just failed, those pics are ........ eerrrr crap....... cant see much there..

on the several flywheels I have there are no "inserts".. the bolts just go through..

Water jacket.. Yes it MUST be flat and strong.. not sure about some "quick steel" etc, filling the pits in heads isnt an issue, but to make something a bit more supportive.. might prove a challenge, need to check the temperature ratings of whaterver material you decide to use..

[fix]

Yes the pictures are crap, thats my rubbish phone! Anyway they seem to have disappeared now.

They flywheel should be ok without the inserts then, i guess aslong as they the bolts tighten up its ok.

I've just read the other post on here about 1.9 to 2.1 and the guy has the same sort of issue with pitting, im not totally sure about how to do the glass and sand paper method (something flat with sandpaper on the rub the jb weld so its square?)

I could weld it but i take it the only way to properly flatten the weld is at a machine shop? (a grinding disc is out of the question!)

The quiksteel can definately withstand the temperature according to the data sheet. Ive used it before on an oil pipe and it never failed, even under pressure.

Or i could try get another half of the crankcase.

[toomanytoys]

A piece of plate glass and course grinding paste to flaten the head seal surface after applying the "JB weld" (which has hardened over night etc)..

You aint gonna be able to do the same procedure as easily with the case half..

NO you CANNOT just use another half of a case... they are align bored as a matched pair... if one side is damaged, the other side is essentially scrap, unless you want to pay for the align bore.. BUT the wbx bearings are NOT available in oversize for a normal align bore (as per type 1 engines) so the case halfs would require skimming to close up the bearing saddle to be bored to the std size.. Far too much work to be worth the hassle and most likely not very successful...

[fix]

Fair point ill have to sort out the case i have then!

Its not that bad but there is definately some noticeable pitting.

I think i might try welding the pitting then using a flap disc to flatten it out, surely thats got to be more solid than jb weld/quiksteel etc

[ricicles]

when you say metal rings? are you talking about shims? the shims will give you the end float you need on your crank. you are going to use a different crank in your case, so your original shims may not be correct. its all in the grind that you asked about earlier on in your thread.you will need a dial gauge to measure it and order new shims to achieve the correct end float. i can see a little detail of the pics on the case hope you can sort it. will you have the studs taken out and the faces machined after welding? what are the gasket faces on the heads like? water leaks are not uncommon on these engines, so its got to be perfect.