I nicked it off the samba. If the AFM is giving a decent steady output then it will be fine.
I would take her for as long and hard a run as you can, and check the spark plug colours to see if it is a particular cylinder that is causing the problem.
Worn throttle bodies cause lumpy running off a closed throttle, on the interaction between just open and fully closed.
Have you checked fuel pump delivery, and injector spray pattern on each bank?
Worth popping off the valve covers and looking at the valve springs. they should all pretty much line up when looked from the front along all four. It will show if one valve has receded into the head and isnt sealing properly. A burnt valve will stick up higher than the others, and cause poor running, and should show on a spark plug after a good drive.
Have done the AFM test and to be honest it didn't show up an obvious problem. Spray pattern looks ok and spark plugs look even. Got an AFM on its way to try out so i'll let you know if that was the culprit or not!!!
Wasted some more money on a new set of HT leads from Brickwerks (fantasticly quick service) that have made no difference. Don't mind spending money if it sorts problems, really bugs me if it just means I have more unnecessary spares on the shelf!
Whipped spark plugs out again. No1 was the most "orange" and No4 nearer white, though both could've been considered tea coloured..... depends how bad you are at making tea!!!
According to the wiki the next thing to try is a new coil, then an ECU. Anyone want to buy a kidney to fund it?
just a thought - after my 2.1mv kangarooing on the motorway today - not fun. does it have a lambda probe. if so, disconnect it if you haven't already done so. steve from gasure pulled mine today after i arrived in the breakdown vehicle. improved performance and stopped the bucking bronco effect
taken a day off to tinker and now thrown my toys out of the cot. Could have bought a whole new engine for the amount of manhours I have wasted fiddling with it.
Borrowing a compression tester for the weekend.
Been trying different combinations of the 3 rotor arms and 3 dist caps that I have..... only managed to succeed in confusing myself as to which is the best combination! Amazing to me that brand new, named brand (Bosch) items can vary so much. In my industry if we manufactured stuff with so much variation we'd go bust (and possibly to prison!) Seems to be a couple of mm of difference in the width of the electrode tip of the rotor arm between the 3 i've got. Also there is some play in the location of the dist cap on the lug on the distributor (i'e the tab on the cap isn't as big as the slot on the distributor) Surely this can mess up the timing, or is is not that super critical???
mattk918 wrote: Also there is some play in the location of the dist cap on the lug on the distributor (i'e the tab on the cap isn't as big as the slot on the distributor) Surely this can mess up the timing, or is is not that super critical???
Mine does that quite a bit, I think the springs just hold it in place enough for it to work, and the exact same thought occured to me.
Have not had to adjust the timing for 2 years and 17,000 miles. In fact have not made any adjustments in that time.
the size of the contact on the end of the rotor is massive in relation to the four contacts and especially in relation to v slight movement of cap possible ,it doesn't affect the timing enough to notice or detect on a timing light