Club 80-90 Forums

Fantastic article. I'm nowhere near the paint job yet on my t25 but will definately be trying this.
Could you explain the procedure after the final coat is on and left for a week please? Is it to flatten back lightly enough to stay within the thickness of the final coat and then polish it? or just polish it after the final coat has dried?.
Any suggestions for the make of polish used ?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Jake

Depends how chilled you are in terms of applying it. Some understandably get over-zealous and try to put too much paint on in one go, or worse, try to rework areas that they did five minutes previously. However if you work 'thinly' and at the right mix, you won't need much flatting back. Essentially yes though, you take off enough to flatten it out and t-cut (or similar) is fine for polishing out - if you really need that level of finish.

You could apply a thin coat after flatting as the final gloss coat I suppose. Lot depends on just how good you built up the layers. Don't polish until you think its flat enough and theres enough paint on and even then, it should be the last job. Don't polish between layers or you will be in trouble. Polishing compounds tend to have waxes in which is not a surface you want to be putting paint on.

Well it`s done.......

Looks the biz.....it will need a final flat and polish but it looks a real gem...

How do i upload the piccys....i will take sme more tomorrow as I only had my camera phone on me..

A very good idea Cov KID..Thanks.

Tis in the wiki...

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Mi ... g_pictures" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

We want to see those photo's.

Simon

Here you go. Some more to follow soon.

http://s571.photobucket.com/albums/ss155/t_u_g_photos/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hope this works never done this before.

Very nice, it is such a transformation when the paint starts going on. That is some shed you have there, windows out, and away from the weather, ideal.

Yes...a good friend of mine runs his own recovery business.....so he lent me is unit.....had to keep the paint away from his trucks and his porsche.....boxer engine...hmmm

I only need to get the windows put back in now......

£491...AUTO WINDSCREENS

£150 + Vat...Local fitter

Looks like i will end up doing this myself....

You know it was that cold in that unit it froze the kettle...

Tug,

Very nice job mate, really like the colour.

Its good to see pics, anymore?

Pete?

Thanks for the comments. I will add more on Photo bucket.

I have fitted two of the windows now......My thumbs are so sore....

It is looking the muts nuts now......MOT shortly....fingers crossed it passes im broke now....

is it worth getting any random vehicle panel to have a practice on (old door or the like)?

does say so in the WIKI

And again I find the read it properly and not scan through it lesson rammed home!

I practiced on a drivers door and put it on....Doh! its shiney and the rest isn't quite. It's amazing what you can achieve when you give it a little time. Roll on spring. I have built up a supply of all the stuff over the winter.

It is very straight forward to roller your van. Read the Wiki and then read it again...and again until you are certain of what you need to do.

My van came out well. I admit that their are some runs in it but these will rub out and autoglym out......
I tested the paint on a door and it ran everywhere..

But i thickened the paint and hey presto..the van looks the muts nuts..

Have a go...

39 pages is a lot to trawl through for this answer so could someone tell me what grade of paper I need when keying the original paint before then cleaning and application of the first rustoleum coat?

The excellent wiki guide states 600 grit between coats but doesn't mention the initial keying for dolts like me.

Do I still use soapy water with it too?