Paint Your Wagon - with a roller!

Post by **ermie571** » 28 Jul 2008, 09:42

Covkid,

thanks for your comments...I haven't yet experienced the problems of which you speak regarding the roller head! I will dispose of the one indoors immediately!

(spose I didn't do much more than 30 mins of rollering over the two days.) My technique is definitely improving, though!

Em
x

Post by **duncan1973** » 28 Jul 2008, 09:42

hopefully i wont get chased out of the forum since i dont have a VW, I have a 20 year old Landrover 90, which is red and has completed faded and gone completely matt, to bo honest its worthless but for £50 i think its got to be worth painting. I think you mentioned that Rust-oleum sticks to anything, will it be ok on bare aluminium where i have had to sand back old bubbled paint?

Post by **Poseidon** » 28 Jul 2008, 10:44

I seem to be having some problems finding the foam brushes.. I have trawled all the pound shops and managed to get a load of trays and roller heads, but no luck with the brushes..
anyone know anywhere else they can be found? I searched B&Q but nothing

--update--

would these work?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BIG-VALUE-PACK-OF ... .m14.l1318

Post by **ermie571** » 28 Jul 2008, 12:19

Posieden,

I had success with such an example.....I found it better than the flat ones I got at poundland! (which just deposited fibres in the paint, and left drag marks!)

Thanks for the link....I will be getting some too!

Em
x

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 28 Jul 2008, 15:50

Yup, they're the ones. Most pound shops stock the blackspot range of tools and bits and bobs of which the foam brushes are part so basically anywhere that does these cheap bits will probably have them.

As for the landrover, I see no reason why not but you should consult the paint specs which are available online from many stockists.

Post by **oldiguana** » 28 Jul 2008, 21:00

yo dudes...been weldin marladys van for nearly a fortnight off n on,(pics to follow shortly)i will be indulging in the rollering sometime this week,ive got a few niggles and hope you roller rebels can assist
1.......4 parts paint-1 part white spirits?
2.......can i put 2 coats on in the first dat,then flat and repaint at my leisure?
3........can i mix my paint the night before,cling film the jug,then use first thing next day?
4.........if my caggin technique suffers a little,is the paint reasonably forgiving?
5.........how long would be safe to flat back after 2 coats in one day?
6.........and finally...why did the hulks trousers never rip when he metamorphisized....i only have to bend down to pick up a screw driver and theres a parting of the cloth?......................
thanks in advance...........fabulous thread

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 28 Jul 2008, 21:05

1.......4 parts paint-1 part white spirits?

No, not as exact as that. Start around 10%. Too much depends on temperature etc.

2.......can i put 2 coats on in the first dat,then flat and repaint at my leisure?

Yes if its warm and you're a slow painter.

3........can i mix my paint the night before,cling film the jug,then use first thing next day?

Definately. Advised actually.

4.........if my caggin technique suffers a little,is the paint reasonably forgiving?

Yep but have wife/buddy/neighbour around to spot errors/runs you've just missed.

5.........how long would be safe to flat back after 2 coats in one day?

At least a week - better if its more but left in full sun - could be just days.

Post by **oldiguana** » 28 Jul 2008, 21:19

cheerz owduck,that'll do nicely

Post by **oldiguana** » 29 Jul 2008, 22:22

cheerz covkid for the advice....had a quick experiment today with 200mls of paint..dont know if i did right,but the can needed mixing so i shook it.......the roller seemed covered in bubbles at first...i dont think i spent long enough loading it....when i finally got to paint it on the van,i wiped it off as it looked horendous,and im not exaggerating...covered in goose bumps.tried again and left it 5 mins and watched the goose bumps flatten out...i was just being impatient.........definately scary but seem to be getting the hang of it.....only wish i had cleaned all the grinding dust out of the jug before i mixed the paint...ended up like runny swarfega!!....ended up using it over the stone chip on the cills.......couldnt belive the shine/high gloss tho that the paint has after half an hour.....i have bought the 9010 so the missus is expecting a dentist white van,i arent too chuffed about it but shes going newquay in 3 weeks so hopefully it.ll dull down by then...........................cheerz again

Post by **desmond** » 29 Jul 2008, 23:13

Poseidon wrote:I seem to be having some problems finding the foam brushes.. I have trawled all the pound shops and managed to get a load of trays and roller heads, but no luck with the brushes..
anyone know anywhere else they can be found? I searched B&Q but nothing

--update--

would these work?
http://cig.eaby.co.uk/BIG-VALUE-PACK-OF ... .m14.l1318

Hi Posseidon,

I've tried loads of pound shops and found none. I ended up finding them at Leyland SDM. Bought them from 2 different stores, so they should all have them. They come in a pack with three sizes for about a pound. They do have a limited life, so get a pack for each coat and you will definitely be right.

Post by **desmond** » 29 Jul 2008, 23:17

HarryMann wrote:
after the final coat with 1000 grade Wet & Dry. Wouldn't this leave scratch marks?

Not if W&D used properly wet, the paper kept wet and not allowed to 'block' with paint, just one drop of Fairy Liquid in't water helps. Discard paper if it blocks up before it 'tears' at your paint, have a bristle nail brush or similar in water bucket to scrub paint out of paper

A slight 'dry' mattness will cut back with buffer, but proper good* orange peel needs paper, sometimes less than 1000 even... Rolls Royce use this method (did, anyway) coat after coat (16 sometimes)

Use a proper rubber block for large flat surfaces and don't 'scrub' at it, keep working unidirectionally, horizontal usually being easiest and the minute scratches then won't show (they merge, being in one direction). Be particular how you hold the block, allow it to deform in one plane to match the contour but not the other, it won't 'shape' to the contour unless you help it a little. Black is the worst to show scratches!

*Orange peel is usually glossy, so is a double-edged sword, you don't really want it, but certainly when spraying, it doesn't occur when paint is hitting surface too dry, or drying too fast after hitting it (bloom)

Thanks again for this HarryMann,

I did try this today before I applied the final coat and although it came down quite smooth, there were still a few little craters and things from the Orange Peel. I'm getting a bit worried now, is there a machine I can hire or can I take it to someone that would do a better job of cutting back than using Sandpaper? At the moment it looks like a Van that someone painted by hand

Post by **ashman** » 30 Jul 2008, 13:04

Fourth coat on finally and I can sit back and look forward to going on holiday in the bus at the weekend.

I'll maybe flat it back and final polish when I get back, but a couple of the guys who saw it for the first time at work yesterday questioned whether I really needed to - which makes all the effort worthwhile.

I used RAL 3000 Red and it is pretty bright. I can't remember what the white code was for the roof, but I used the satin black on the bumpers and rear panel which went on really really well.

Ashman

Post by **desmond** » 30 Jul 2008, 13:25

Well done Ashman. Looks great.

Hard to tell from the photo, but does it have any Orange peel effect at all?

Cheers

Post by **ashman** » 30 Jul 2008, 13:47

Yes it does have a slight orange peel effect, but when/if I give it a final flat back and polish then this will be history.

With the best will in the world you will not roller without getting the orange peel - imho. I flatted back after the first and third coats and this kept the orange peel to a minimum and should make the final polishing a lot easier.

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 30 Jul 2008, 15:36

Desmond, your paint isn't thinned enough if you're having major probs.

You shouldn't need to sand very much at all between coats if you've thinned it enough. What might be a minor blemish on one coat will be twice as bad on the second and so forth. Go back through the WIKI and make sure you've read everything carefully.