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Re: Getting it back together

Posted: 28 Mar 2012, 19:51
by rollercoaster
I wonder if I need a puller to press the drive shaft out of the hub,
has anyone got a tip as to what I can get that would be useful on various jobs.
There are so many to choose from and I have overwhelm.
Also I need to get a socket for the nut on the end.
Maybe I should get a bigger socket set, any ideas again?
A set that goes as big as the rear nut would be useful I suppose.
Not usually economical to buy sockets one at a time..

Re: Getting it back together

Posted: 28 Mar 2012, 20:16
by syncropaddy
rollercoaster wrote:I wonder if I need a puller to press the drive shaft out of the hub,
has anyone got a tip as to what I can get that would be useful on various jobs.
There are so many to choose from and I have overwhelm.
Also I need to get a socket for the nut on the end.
Maybe I should get a bigger socket set, any ideas again?
A set that goes as big as the rear nut would be useful I suppose.
Not usually economical to buy sockets one at a time..

Not sure which hub you speak of but I have never had to press a drive shaft out of anything! Piece of hard wood and a good sized copper headded lump hammer is all you need.

Re: Getting it back together

Posted: 29 Mar 2012, 05:56
by Aidan
outer cv should come out of the hub without much problem a tap on the end (with the nut protecting the threads is all you'll need ;30mm and 46mm sockets are cheaper than buying sets of big uns, the 30mm only needs to be a 1/2" drive THE 46MM NEEDS TO BE 3/4" OR 1" and you'll need a suitable breaker bar to match - tool place at Cullompton is reasonable for that stuff but tbh ebay is fine for such stuff too

Re: Getting it back together

Posted: 29 Mar 2012, 07:22
by PetenAli
Tim. I've got both those sockets if you need them. Also a 3/4" drive bar and length of scaffold tube.

Pete

Re: Getting it back together

Posted: 29 Mar 2012, 11:57
by rollercoaster
OK got a 30mm socket now (£7 Sealey) Seems a bit loose on the nut (?) but will do the job.
I have got a lovely heavy nylon mallet too.
Had that a long time, wacking things I am tooled up for!

So its all down to finding somewhere to press the ball joint into the arm when I get to that point.
But generally things are looking good,
hoping it will be ready mot'd to go away in next week up around Devon.

Then its booked in to FutBus for installing the new RJES exhaust, and some other more technical tweaking.
the way Richard designed the exhaust it needs a bracket welded to my Aluminium sump.

Be good if they could re-torque things I have done, as well as most of it is guesswork.

The Longlife stainless one will then be for sale if anyone fancies it.
I had to get it re-welded where it cracked, but if the bracketry was improved,
rather than all hanging on the manifold studs, it would be ok.
It should fit any Subaru with an EJ22 perhaps others too.

Re: Getting it back together

Posted: 31 Mar 2012, 13:51
by rollercoaster
Success!

Image

Couple of questions, it was hard to keep the inside of the hub clean as it came off,
some dust inside to carefully wipe out. Any tips on this?

The drive shaft really didnt want to come out until the bottom ball joint was free,
and this required some whacking again, so as the upright was leaning back some dust dropped in.
Perhaps this could have been prevented with a rag.

Now I am going to look for somewhere to do the pressing out of the old bottom ball joint,
and pressing in the new one, will they need anything special?

Any local peeps recommend somewhere?

Also I am going to be waxoiling a lot,
does this stuff degrade the rubbers at all?

Re: Getting it back together

Posted: 31 Mar 2012, 17:25
by rollercoaster
So this nut was quite tight,
hard to clean the threads and they were rusty..

Image

and then a last minute dash to look for a press,
found this one down at the docks:

Image

and cut a couple of lengths of two inch pipe square off,
to push the new fitting in,
so I may well get it finished in time to get a free retest on Monday..

Re: Getting it back together

Posted: 31 Mar 2012, 23:09
by rollercoaster
The bolts I got from Brickies to bolt the bottom ball joint arm in are the wrong size,
probably me not reading the website well, or could be my vans different..

Image

So I cleaned them up and reused them, bigger is better,
is it syncro size or South African size?

Another question,
Am I talking to myself?
No thats not the question, thats me thinking aloud,
:roll:

I wonder if I should be greasing the inside of the hub, where the drive shaft goes in.
Cleaned up the seals but really they should be lubricated I guess,
and why not put a bit extra in, or would it find its way to the brakes?
And bolting the brake callipers on, is there an important way to keep the bolts tight,
other than just clean them and tighten up?

Re: Getting it back together

Posted: 01 Apr 2012, 06:37
by Aidan
syncro lower ball joint carrier bolts N 010 190 4 £3.50 each from VW they are M12x90, them you have from brickie look like M10s which are 2wd spec
yes grease the seals, don't go mad as you have found keeping them clean during reassembly is the hard bit, the more grease the more crud you can pick up
just tighten the bolts to correct spec they are fine thread and don't undo or need locktite

Re: Getting it back together

Posted: 01 Apr 2012, 07:25
by jes*b
[quote="rollercoaster"]

Another question,
Am I talking to myself?
No thats not the question, thats me thinking aloud,
:roll:

Keep it up! :D This thread is great as you are asking questions and discussing decisions in a way that is really helpful to me. Every nut and bolt is an education at the moment. Good work

Re: Getting it back together

Posted: 01 Apr 2012, 17:44
by rollercoaster
The cleaning and waxoiling is great,
its hardly up to some of the standards I've seen here,
but its pretty good.
I seem to be doing the spots that are hard to get to while I am able,
and will fill in the rest afterwards.

Image

and it will seal the dust so it goes back together without crap getting inside.
the waxoil I am using dries to a black finish,
and I imagine it is great to keep adding to from time to time.
I cleaned out the hollow parts and painted it generously inside,
then bolted the ball joints back on.

Image

Re: Getting it back together

Posted: 01 Apr 2012, 18:50
by syncropaddy
rollercoaster wrote: Image

Nice to see an original brake dust plate! I was doing some measurements on the front hubs today and I couldn't help thinking that this assembly is very heavy for what it does. Steyr musn't have heard of aluminium back then.

Re: Getting it back together

Posted: 01 Apr 2012, 19:38
by rollercoaster
Bad news..
As I was fitting the hubs back on I noticed the hole for the bottom ball joint taper was way too big,
on checking the old ball joint I noticed an insert, (that Aidan had mentioned) that had come out attached to the taper.
It was hiding there looking like it was part of the ball joint, when really it was part of the hub.
After a bit of agle grinding and a tap in a big vise it popped off ok and I put it all together.

Trouble is I only saved one of the old ball joints :roll:
the other is down the dock somewhere thrown into a corner or a skip by the man who was operating the press!
That means my other insert has been discarded..
They are not there now and all I can do is go back on Monday early and look about :(

In case I dont find it does anyone else have a spare one?
Is it Syncro specific or can I ask on the general forum?
Seems like it would be a rare part..

Re: Getting it back together

Posted: 01 Apr 2012, 19:55
by syncropaddy
Ever so slightly Syncro specific Im afraid .......

Re: Getting it back together

Posted: 01 Apr 2012, 20:30
by Aidan
classic parts only for new or was last time I was after them 251 407 186 , brickie might have them in stock
I should have a preloved one knocking about somewhere
I warned you because they aren't readily available and if classic/brickie/heritage haven't got them then we are into remanufacture time, cue Silverbullet