Temp and Pressure Gauges

[jebiga41]

Would definately recommend a boost guage oil presure and temp, boost gives you info in terms of if you have air leaks and also economy, oil pressure and temp good back ups to the main DOP system egt seems to be essential for tuning

[KINGPRAWN]

do gauges stop you breaking down!.....or just prepare you for the impending doom!!!!!

[torchy]

oddly a lot of motorsport places sell combined sender/switches but don't know and won't tell you the switching presure - I think thats an important bit of spec! )

Fully agree, I've seen these combined switches and agree why don't they give the switching pressure, pretty useless without knowing that.

What are the two sensors for, one clearly for buzzer/light which is on the filter housing, the other on the head...what for?

Many Thanks for taking the time to reply, think I've got all I need to part with some money now, interesting what you say about the temperature of the oil though, Clearly a need for synthetic oil IMHO.

When I broke down on the way to Coney Farm the engine was REALLY hot but I had been "foot on the floor" up the M5 and eventually the oil light and buzzer came on, that's why I need the gauges....to find out what is ACTUALLY the case and not what a warning light is telling me.

[torchy]

do gauges stop you breaking down!.....or just prepare you for the impending doom!!!!!

They would in my case ...slow down or stop or check something or peice of mind or .......and then you could also plan where to wait for the RAC

[HarryMann]

Clearly a need for synthetic oil IMHO.

Semi-synth here, after using fully synth for a while. Mostly about oil temp, but s-s is an insurance for sure

[torchy]

Clearly a need for synthetic oil IMHO.

Semi-synth here, after using fully synth for a while. Mostly about oil temp, but s-s is an insurance for sure

That's interesting, why did you go back to semi synthetic after using fully synthetic? I'm using Mobil 1 in my "mv" and want to use a fully synthetic in the JX (when it stops breaking down and needing the oil changed!)

[HarryMann]

Although I could buy fully synth pretty cheap at GSF, I started buying 20 litre containers of semi from a guy over the road. I was also getting through it a rare old rate for a while, changing quite frequently and burning some more, mainly off-road when canted over, due to turbo seals. Was also running hotter before a decent oil cooler. Now I'm not burning it nor changing so often... but s-s is perfectly up to it so have stuck with bulk buying

[torchy]

Although I could buy fully synth pretty cheap at GSF, I started buying 20 litre containers of semi from a guy over the road. I was also getting through it a rare old rate for a while, changing quite frequently and burning some more, mainly off-road when canted over, due to turbo seals. Was also running hotter before a decent oil cooler. Now I'm not burning it nor changing so often... but s-s is perfectly up to it so have stuck with bulk buying

Yes SS is good also of course and more so if it's cheap! especially if you keep losing it. I can see I'm going to need an oil cooler soon, which one have you got? sounds like you are happy with it?

[HarryMann]

18 row with large bore pipes, would suggest 1/2" if you can manage it. Proper Mocal plate cooler, 25 row if you want to go for it. Still get high temps on hot climbs with the 18 row, but its stays under control.

[John Potter]

The Brickwerks kit uses a Mocal 25 row. It says "larger bore than other kits" for the 10m of pipes "to reduce pressure drop" as well. Dont know enough about fluid dynamics to know if thats correct mind you, but it sounds good.

I'm looking at getting a cooler (AAZ running hot) and if the Brickerks one is 5/8th rather than 1/2 then its a pretty good value package. If its 1/2 then its still not a bad deal but you can find the bits a little cheaper from fleabay or one of the race suppliers.

[lloydy]

I just got a 25 row setrab cooler and mocal thermostatic take off for £160. Still need to get the pipes, which will be large bore, so might work out slightly cheaper than the bw kit. Not by much though

[HarryMann]

Pretty sure the brickwerks ones are 1/2" which is fine, larger than most typical

Larger bore of course reduces pressure drop, although not significantly I expect against 3/8". It does though, also increase the total volume of oil in system. Probably a good compromise as these are long runs (14 to 15 feet).

30 feet adds 1.18 litres of oil at 1/2" bore + cooler volume

That's about 1/2 litre more than a 3/8" bore hose x 30 feet

For Information only

[v-lux]

So, digging this up again........
What did people settle on in the end?

Ive been looking at oil pressure senders and have discovered the minefield it is!
Can anyone answer a few questions for me please?

1- As i understand it, (for Diesels) Low pressure sender is on the back of the head, High pressure on the filter mount. If this is the case then i presume i need to fine a VDO pressure sender with an attachment for the Gauge and an attachment for the BOD circuit.

2- What Bar/PSI do i need the attachment to be for the BOD circuit to operate properly? (the only 2pole, 5 bar, M10x1, VDO pressure sender ive found decent info on so far is: "5 bar gauge with a 1.2 bar switch and m10x1 thread. (360081030018c)"
1.2 Bar for high pressure warning seems a bit low to me? Or is this the correct sender?

I really don't want to just get any old 2pole sender just to get the gauges working. Seems a pointless venture. Has anyone got a part number for the 'correct' sender to run a VDO 5bar gauge?

[axeman]

this was how i kept the bod working correctly on the wbx and it worked perfectly. you could use a single pole vdo pressure sender, and then use 2 seperate switches once you find out the correct switching pressures,



neil

[lloydy]

i fitted my pressure sender on the oil cooler/filter housing using a T piece so i could keep the factory sender too. Mine are TIM so can't help with the VDO stiuff