1.9DG to 21.MV Info

[fix]

Yes i remember you saying that but i couldnt seem to see anything not even a logo, or if there is one it wasnt apparent enough to see with my 99p torch

Ill have a good look in the day, ill try nip over on my lunch hour tomorrow. I wouldnt mind deciding on my plan of action so i can do abit of work over the xmas hols.

[fix]

Well it looks like the engine isnt a VAG recon

After the use of a wire brush i can just about make out MV plus 6 digits,so that unfortunately means i have no idea on the condition of the bottom end.

Which makes me think its full rebuild time!

[T25daisy]

hi there have you still got your pistons out ,if you have could yes please measure the height of it from top to bottom im trying to find what engine i have , the 1.9 to 2.1 are diffent but i dont know what they are cheers

[toomanytoys]

hi there have you still got your pistons out ,if you have could yes please measure the height of it from top to bottom im trying to find what engine i have , the 1.9 to 2.1 are diffent but i dont know what they are cheers

DJ piston I have sat in front of me is 66.75mm the DG piston I have is 70mm... MV will be the same length but deeper dish
I'll do a pic later...

BUT.. I have a 3rd piston here that came out of a 2.1.... its not OE for sure... its slightly shorter than the DJ piston and has a massive dish in it.. looks like its perfect for a turbo motor... might be a little project (another ) to do..

[fix]

Sorry ive just noticed the post about checking the size, if you still want me to check mine I can this weekend

[fix]

A quick update on the engine work!

I managed to get the pistons out after a couple of different methods, a home made slide hammer definately worked the best.

First piston out




Then i took the plunge and split the engine casings, out came the crank



The bearings seem nice and tight with no noticeable play, but they will be replaced.

Now the crank is front of me ready to strip its starting to look pretty daunting!

[ricicles]

hi fix, doing much the same thing as you but put my thread on modified, a prob you may encounter when ordering the bearings is are they late or early type, the engine no should tell you, if you have the crank reground you will need to set the end float( easier on the early ones), the aftermarket pistons metioned earlier are probably cofap ones, the piston does not reach the top of the liner therefore they have no squish so are a pile of pants, i cannot remember what the measurement is from the gudgeon pin to the top of the pison but its worth putting the barells in and seeing if they do reach the top of the liner, if they do not you are probably better sticking with the 1.9 . from what i have read a 2.1 with cofap pistons will be no more powerfull. good luck with the build, take your time and enjoy.

[toomanytoys]

Part number on side of sump tells you if its an early or late case.. if it ends with a "B" its a late case and 1.9 and 2.1 take same bearings, early case is only 1.9 and needs clearancing to take 2.1 crank..

I will say this.. DO NOT reuse the rod bolts on the later engines. these are stretch bolts (I originally thought hese were limited to the 2.1 but part numbers for late 1.9's are the same so assume they cannot be used either.. ) and its a really good idea to have the big ends resized after fitting new rod bolts.. especially on 2.1's.

[fix]

To be honest i dont know what regrinding the crank is, i can only assume when its worn it doesnt sit in the bearings correctly then it gets reground and smaller bearings are used?

The pistons mentioned earlier were nothing to do with me, i think mine are OEM MV pistons but i will have a measure up.


The engine is pretty dirty on the outside so ill give it a good clean with petrol etc then have a look by the sump to see if its early or late.

Ive heard about not using rod bolts or they can end up throwing a rod thanks for the advice, when you say rod bolts do you mean the bolts and nuts that tighten up the conrods around the crankshaft?


Im now thinking to myself should I actually take the crankshaft apart, everything seems tight with no play (the conrods move side to side but no play up and down) and there seems to be no end float at all.

Also i was looking at the engine number and there seems to be a star stamped at the end of it, would this make it a VAG recon? (there are 8 digits then a star but no little vw logo)

I know as ive come this far i should just strip the crank, but how much further is it to do that! It just looks abit daunting looking at how many parts are in it, how much harder from what ive done so far is it to take strip and rebuild it?

Thanks

[toomanytoys]

Have you got a Haynes manual?? if not, get one......... or pref the Bentley manual (costs a lot more but a lot better, official VW USA repair manual)

Yes, "rod bolts" are the one's that go through the rod and hold it to the crank..

NO.. unless you know it has done low miles its not worth leaving it and refitting.. that would be a waste of time... and likely end up with a thrown rod... that of course is my opinion, as I belive that a rebiuld should be just that, returning everything to as close to factory specs as poss.. if you are in the biz of doing a cheap job that will last just long enough to "be someone elses problem" then thats your choice.
The nuts for the rod bolts can be reused...

[fix]

Toomanytoys I totally agree with what you're saying or I would have just left the bottom end alone and just replaced the head gaskets, i just think its a majorly important part of the engine to get wrong so i better do it carefully (I do have a haynes manual to look at and all the help on here i guess!)

I guess i was trying to make my life easier by hoping for a reply saying it will be fine just leave it as it is

Anyway i will be stripping the crank so expect some more questions next week

[ricicles]

Crack on with it fix beatle rod bolts can be used as they are not stretch type. Also fly wheels bolts are now unavailable from what i have found out re-used them with studlock and torque them up with 60nm. Good luck just driven mine today and it is saweeeeeeeeeeeeet.

[ricicles]

how are you doing with it?

[fix]

Just doing steady away mate, just been cleaning up the casings thats about it! (diy in the house to do aswell)

Im still abit unsure about messing with the crank

[ricicles]

what do you want from it? at the start of the thread you wanted an engine you knew inside and out. i would be wanting to strip it, take it to a good engineering shop and have it all measured.get the barells and pistons checked and fit new bearings to the crank, big ends and cam. a full gasket set and away you go with confidence.the engineering shop will advise you if your crank needs grinding and the bearings needed if its done. its not a diy job. end float will need to be reset with shims if the crank is reground. it will be worth it in the long run.