New Amateur Engine Rebuild Featuring a DJ2.1

[maxstu]

Not sure what it is. The moulded curving edge is approx. 2cms. Some kind of rubber diaphram. Or a heavy duty rubber glove? It could well be the reason for the conrod bearing destruction?

Not sure, cobblers.

[maxstu]

Now the oil gallery is clear of obstructions, time to get on with the monotonous task of cleaning.
Head and case bolts into cleaning fluid.

Each one checked for smooth and clean threads, using a M10 cutter from a tap and dye set. This cleans out all head and main case bolts and thread. Or M8 for smaller nuts and threads.

Out of the cleaning fluid and a bit of wire brushing. Hmm! Someone's used an alternative sealant on these head nuts!




Sprayed with rust inhibitor and onto M10 cutter.



More spray, and test by hand for smoothness on head stud. If it binds before fully wound down, back on the cutter it goes.

Yet more spray, and grind surface with 1200 wet and dry. Spray once more, and put to one side



All threads will be cleaned once more with raw alcohol or meths spirit prior to torquing cases together.

More work inside cases. Cleaning away debris and making surface sound to accept new sleeves.



That's all folks...

[tencentlife]

My guess is the stray rubber bits were possibly an oil filter's pressure control valve from one that uses a rubber disc at bottom, but it seems like too much rubber, those are usually not more than 20mm in diameter. Making a guess as to the actual size of the pieces you showed and the formed lip of what appears to be silicone it would more likely be the anti-drainback diaphragm at the top of the filter, but those pieces would still need to get past the filter media element itself. If the diaphragm fragged, the pieces would get pulled against the element all around and quite possibly block flow enough, especially when the engine was cold, to either hold open the bypass valve, letting some through, or rupture the element, with the same result. If you had the old filter around it would be well worth cutting the end cap off to have a look inside, although just peering into the inlet holes would show the diaphragm shredded or missing altogether. 

As to galley cleaning, you should be removing the flywheel end plug as you did and thread tapping that opening for a pipe plug anyway, but with the main galley open at both ends it's a small matter to guarantee complete cleanliness of all the side branches, using a selection of small bore brushes, lots of spray solvent and compressed air. You can see down nearly every part of the oiling network except the drop-channel that goes down to the camshaft center bearing.

Looks like Reinzosil or Dirko on the head nuts, either of which is better to use than the VW mystery yellow goo. Make sure to put one drop of oil on each stud's threads and run the capnuts down and back to lube the threads, then a wipe clean of the sealing surface with Brakleen or whatever you all call fast-drying solvent over there. 

[tencentlife]

...

I have road tested my DJ on both E5 @ 10' and E10 @ 5'...

ETOH increases octane so you would advance timing on a higher E percentage. The pump rating would govern, though, it accounts for the entire product.
 

[maxstu]

Thanks very much for both answers.

Regarding the rubber debris found inside the engine, one piece l removed was over 2cms in size. It was jammed next to the oil pressure relief valve and preventing me from removing the part about the spring. A rubber oil filter pressure control valve? Unfortunately l binned the oil filter some weeks ago.

Gallery cleaned and cleaned and cleaned with pipe cleaners. Then compressed air used to good effect. 100 percent certain all clear now.

Why is it better to use Dirko or Reinzosol instead of the factory yellow sealant? I have read a few articles on The Samba which mentions using The Right Stuff, whatever that is?

Regards
Stuart

[tencentlife]

The Right Stuff once cured is the same exact product as Reinzosil, siloxane. There may be minor differences in the evaporable vehicles which affect workability and drying time (both are air-dried, not anaerobic, nor cured), but in the end it's what's left to do the job that matters. From what I've seen of uses of TRS, it's either much less workable than Reinzosil, and/or the users are very sloppy with it. It's also very expensive, whereas every gasket set I ever bought already came with a tube of Reinzosil in the Reinz sets, or Dirko in the Elring sets, which is an equivalent product. The Reinz tube is easily enough to do 4 full rebuilds, so I had so many tubes on hand I was giving them away to friends and customers. 

The yellow goo is of unknown composition and has a spotty record of longevity in use. 

This article will help you guarantee success with the critical combustion seals:

https://intrepidoverland.com/the-fire-ring-cure/

[silverbullet]

The yellow sealant *might* be a fortified waterproof grease. It definitely separates into two components when left on the shelf and one part looks like a clear oil. It dries out in time of course but takes ages to do that.
I'd stick with what VW specced, using different products is just asking for head stud corrosion especially if the sealant has any sort of acid based curing process.

[maxstu]

The yellow sealant *might* be a fortified waterproof grease. It definitely separates into two components when left on the shelf and one part looks like a clear oil. It dries out in time of course but takes ages to do that.
I'd stick with what VW specced, using different products is just asking for head stud corrosion especially if the sealant has any sort of acid based curing process.

[maxstu]

Back on this rebuild after The Big C came rapping on my front door. Lots of intensive chemo radiotherapy over December and January.

Now feeling my strength and stamina is returning, plus a nice bit of warm weather, so l'm back in the workshop trying to find bits and bobs to proceed with the 2.1 rebuild replacing the DG1.9 currently in my camper.

Last August/Sept a short block rebuild by Silverbullet included a new modified camshaft and oil pump. New conrods, reground crankshaft and health check on the head studs. Two replaced.

That roughly brings the rebuild up to date as of one week ago. Since then l have added pistons with new rings and pins, and new sleeves.



I have replacement valves l lapped some time back.



Have just clean up the cylinder heads and added a few bits to block. Pulley, coolant bits, oil switch etc as l await another parcel from Brickwerks.





More to come Thursday. Adding valves to heads is next.

[maxstu]

The cylinder valve compressor l bought is a poor product. It's a cheap and nasty version and doesn't give enough clearance on the lip of the cylinder heads to compress the valve springs fully to remove the retainers!/collets.
I had this problem when removing the valves. So l turned the jaws outward and took a chance nothing went flying across the workshop.

Correct use of valve compressor.



But arm hits cylinder head wall before valve springs are fully compressed, preventing removal of collets.



Reversing the jaws gives additional room. But comes with a health warning.



I had to keep straightening the jaws. What a piece of c..p



Valves were lapped some weeks ago. Marked for appropriate cylinders. Ready to fit with springs. Valve stems lubricated before sliding in.



Clamping cylinder head to table helps.



All valves and springs done on both cylinder heads. About 90 minutes work.



New drain bolts and washers, with a dab of Hylomar gasket sealant, go in both cylinder head.



Heads on shortly.

[maxstu]

I put the heads on some days' ago. No photos l'm afraid. But had a problem with head nuts springing back. I could push all nuts to 50nm using my digital torque wrench. Yet, as l slowly released pressure l could see some domed head nuts unwinding a little. Some even going to under 40nm!

It was only affecting cylinders 1 & 2, by the rockers shafts. One at a time l removed each nut, thoroughly cleaned of yellow sealant, degrease surface and thread of the nuts and mating head surfaces, and once more went through the procedure.

Better success with the first nut. Then l ran out of yellow sealant! Thank you for your swift donation, Silverbullet.

With more yellow sealant to hand l decided to reset all domed nuts on cylinders 1 & 2 and now have satisfactory results. Reapplying 50nm torque pressure three days' later showed all 8 nuts have stayed at or very near 50nm. I can move forward now.

Checked with a loving tick on each nut.



Head nuts set and valve train on.



Rocker adjusters set at 1 & 1/2 turns from zero lash.



Repeat on other side and close up.





Bed time for the 2.1. More shortly. Brickwerk goodies expected tomorrow or Thursday.

[maxstu]

I became side tracked by someone indoors moaning about a lack of commitment decorating the kitchen..

Anyway. With the below minor issue to resolve l will bring this slowest rebuild up to date.

viewtopic.php?t=182479

After much fannying about l decided to put aside the stainless pipe. It is impossible to get the bends correct to matched the other spigot. So reverted to a spare metal one.





A quick clean up. A dust of undercoat and three coverings in satin black. Good as new.





It's better. But not great. And as this pipe has limited accessibility once inside the van, l opted for some quality jubilee clips instead of using original VW expanding clips. l can add a few turns if there is any drips. Narks me they don't match.

[TwinTurbo]

Did you remove the headstuds? Which post # ?

Cheers

Rob

[maxstu]

Briefly mentioned on this page. Two replaced. The rest given a clean bill of health.

[maxstu]

Waterpump and DJ cooling system fitted. Cooler on and plumbed. Coolant pipes behind pulley matching up better using the steel pipe. All the above with new gaskets and a smidgen of Hylomar blue gasket sealant.

So finally l have a DJ2.1 engine ready. It only took me nine months, and that is with someone else preparing the short block for me!

Will start transplant after our tour of Norfolk in late June.

Back to a steel pipe for better alignment



Oil cooler plumbed in



Different thermostat housing for DJ cooling system



Oil pressure sender relocating kit fitted. Will be fitted to a VDO pressure gauge in cabin.