for questions and answers about alternative power transplants on the T25, GTi, Porsche,Subaru etc, this is the place. You must register to post but anyone can read.
waltraud wrote:See new home made bracket with high tensile M8 bolts welded in. Reinforced ends should cope ok . Main section is 4mm steel. Ends more like 7mm
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Bolted up to chassis. Now to assemble pooh plate, flywheel and clutch onto block before getting ready to fit.
waltraud wrote:See new home made bracket with high tensile M8 bolts welded in. Reinforced ends should cope ok . Main section is 4mm steel. Ends more like 7mm
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Bolted up to chassis. Now to assemble pooh plate, flywheel and clutch onto block before getting ready to fit.
waltraud wrote:Engine moved from loading floor to engine bay onto ratchet mechanism.
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Hard to get it all lined up, several hours already. Stopped now for a Xmas rest. I’m going to get some m8 bar with nuts and washers to go through the nearly aligning holes and pull it all together. I imagine that commercial engine lifting straps might have a little give ?
I finally got the engine in today($¥>%#) v pleased. Am I right to do up all the engine to gearbox bolts right before tightening up the sump bolts? I know this is to stop stress on the sump but not sure why.
Slight problem in that after fitting a diesel slave bracket the clutch pedal won’t depress ( was like this before fitting the engine). Seems something happened when changing slave bracket which required some manipulating of the pipes.
waltraud wrote: Am I right to do up all the engine to gearbox bolts right before tightening up the sump bolts? I know this is to stop stress on the sump but not sure why.
Yes, you are correct. Do all sump bolts finger tight. Nip up the bolts to pull the sump back to the gearbox, then tighten the sump to the block, then torque up the sump to gearbox bolts. The reason is that if you tighten the sump bolts first, and the sump isn't right up to the gearbox, when you tighten the engine to gearbox bolts, you can break the lugs off.
waltraud wrote: Am I right to do up all the engine to gearbox bolts right before tightening up the sump bolts? I know this is to stop stress on the sump but not sure why.
Yes, you are correct. Do all sump bolts finger tight. Nip up the bolts to pull the sump back to the gearbox, then tighten the sump to the block, then torque up the sump to gearbox bolts. The reason is that if you tighten the sump bolts first, and the sump isn't right up to the gearbox, when you tighten the engine to gearbox bolts, you can break the lugs off.
waltraud wrote: Am I right to do up all the engine to gearbox bolts right before tightening up the sump bolts? I know this is to stop stress on the sump but not sure why.
Yes, you are correct. Do all sump bolts finger tight. Nip up the bolts to pull the sump back to the gearbox, then tighten the sump to the block, then torque up the sump to gearbox bolts. The reason is that if you tighten the sump bolts first, and the sump isn't right up to the gearbox, when you tighten the engine to gearbox bolts, you can break the lugs off.
Yesterday I tightened up the engine to gbox bolts, sump bolts and started clamping coolant hoses in place. Have ordered a T4 expansion tank as they have more room in for fluid to come and go than the gti one. Thanks Rowelsy.
Moved lpg vapourisor out of the OS void to make way for a Nissan airbox and ecu which I’ve ordered some plastic bolts and vibration pads for.
waltraud wrote:Yesterday I tightened up the engine to gbox bolts, sump bolts and started clamping coolant hoses in place. Have ordered a T4 expansion tank as they have more room in for fluid to come and go than the gti one. Thanks Rowelsy.
Moved lpg vapourisor out of the OS void to make way for a Nissan airbox and ecu which I’ve ordered some plastic bolts and vibration pads for.