Was in a dry place to be honest Boxy. I suppose that length could have got progressively worse over time. Perhaps inadequate - who knows. Its only thinking back that my lad sometimes said he could smell burning plastic so maybe that was it.
Anyway I've grounded inside case and left a tail I can screw to the chassis for good measure. Its all sealed up now ready for refit tomorrow. Will fit a 5amp fuse and check amp draw. If that checks out ok, I'll sit in there for an hour or so with a fire extinguisher.
I gave the fan a dose of WD40 although it seemed fine.
If anyone wants to check how many amps being consumed, using a digital multimeter, heres how: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWA9WqSEjg8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Roller paint your camper at home: http://roller.epizy.com/55554/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for MP4 download.
I've put the Propex back - well, plonked it in so far and connected inlet/exhaust pipes up (I'm viewing this as a two-day job due to limited daylight hours). I don't want to be crawling underneath if its wet or frosty so made sure those underneath pipes are on. I'll only have inside stuff to do now, even if it rains.
Just need to screw it down, make a new earthing point close to heater and start making all the electrical connections again. If it tests ok tomorrow It'll sort the remote out.
-----------------------------
My tip therefore (and Ghost123UK did the same actually), is ground the heater to nearest chassis point with thickish wire. Don't on an old Propex, wholly rely on the earth (black) that runs from heater to thermostat. It can corrode at four-prong plug or chafe if grommets on heater are missing/displaced. Grounding the case from the outside won't do it as its not properly grounded inside, so if you do any work in the area, consider opening it up and grounding the case properly via large connection on spark generator to make sure you have a good, reliable earth - then earth case to chassis. Seal case back up again obviously.
As a bare minimum, make really sure the contacts at the four-prong plug are clean and a good fit - also that connections at thermostat are equally sound and the earth is good. Assume nothing.
I think I'm right in saying that the lack of a ground at/in the 1600 Compact case itself is due to the variety of applications for which Propex heaters are used including wooden and/or glass fibre hulls, and why they chose to ground the heater at the thermostat. Nothing wrong with that in principle when everything is shiney and new, but I've just experienced why in a vehicle with an old model, a localised ground is a much better bet. Also correct 5amp fuse. I'm not sure if later Heatsource units are the same, but its something to bear in mind. There are certainly lots of old Propex units around which give good service but cables (and connectors) do need checking.
Further, the heater will in fact run without the ground connected at all but don't be misled by that because it is then only grounding through internal circuits - which are NOT rated for the job. As Propex point out elsewhere, this can rapidly lead to fried PCB boards. If you do get a cooked board - that could well be the cause. With that in mind, you may want to follow my approach - particularly if you have an old unit.
Other common mistakes include using supply lines that are not up to the job. Speaker wire (for instance) is not good enough! Heater may run for short while then stop. They like a good connection as they cut out if voltage falls short of expectations. Best run on propane too which will work in low temperatures, the blue bottles don't although ok in Summer.
If you need to test a Propex to see if its working (ie you've got a s/h one) or you think thermostat may be faulty, with heater isolated connect the red and orange together and connect to 12v +. Connect black to earth or chassis. Ignore the purple wire. If the heater tries to fire then heater works. If it doesn't the fault is in the heater or spark generator (black box). Hope that helps.
Yes, you can safely use your Propex while driving (whoopee) but always turn it off before you drive into a petrol station. Get the heater checked by a Corgi registered expert (ideally annually) and turn it on at least once a month (even in the Summer) to make sure it is fully functional - they hate being left.
Roller paint your camper at home: http://roller.epizy.com/55554/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for MP4 download.
If anyone wants to check how many amps being consumed, using a digital multimeter, heres how:
Just in case anyone is interested in an X1's current draw. I've just put a meter across mine while testing a new hook-up to house lead I knocked up. On start the meter flicked to 3.9A and then settled back to 2.88A on constant running. The start draw might have been higher but the meter I was using doesn't have a max memory setting.
2ltr Aircooled CU with twin Solex's & originally a 009 dizzie, but now back to standard.
Not tested draw yet on mine (will do and post accordingly) but fired it up just now for first time (post-burnout) and its running lovely. Nothing burning (other than gas). Been running for 45 mins.
It now has internal earth to case, case earthed to chassis, and another earth at thermostat so only needed three wires from heater to Propex. That was definately the problem.
Working great now - albeit with whiff of WD40 after spraying motor at weekend. Hakuna reckons it'll be a week before the WD40 pong dissipates. No big deal
Last edited by CovKid on 04 Jan 2015, 18:05, edited 1 time in total.
Roller paint your camper at home: http://roller.epizy.com/55554/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for MP4 download.
If anyone wants to check how many amps being consumed, using a digital multimeter, heres how:
Just in case anyone is interested in an X1's current draw. On start the meter flicked to 3.9A and then settled back to 2.88A on constant running.
I just had to google that, the X1 (as I am sure you know) the earlier version of the 1600 Compact. Just for the stats, my 1600 Compact, with the later type motor fitted, draws 2 Amps.
The later motors are definately more efficient. Mind you, you'd have to be barking mad to want to pull the old one out just to fit a later one.
Ordered the RF remote control before Chistmas and this afternoon wired it up on the bench to a 12v supply. Neat little thing. I was a bit sceptical about the use of a remote for a Propex but have to say, its VERY wise. Couldn't get into the van first thing - locks frozen. Access to the Propex would have been most welcome. Needs an LED you can see from a distance though - so you KNOW its on!
Will try to follow on from Jeffdub in another thread on exactly how to connect remote as not everyone will be able to figure it out.
Will see if I can get thermostat, timer and remote on one board. I'd have total control then. Just imagine, sat there shivering at the Pikey meet, one click and its started ready for me to crawl in. - plus a timer for during the week so van is already heating up even whilst I slumber.
Blimey, its a world away from having to wear a bobble hat and a scarf when you first get in.
Roller paint your camper at home: http://roller.epizy.com/55554/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for MP4 download.
Anyone else have any measurements of their Propex amperage use? On Propex's site they claim 1.4a constant use, what exactly does that mean? My 2000 with just the switch set to blower is 1.8a constant. With the switch set to ignition, @ start up 1.3a and ignition it's 2.3a falling to around 2a after its warm.
It was suggested to me that I varify these amounts using a clamp ammeter, which I purchased and these were its results. The results from the read out of my charge controller were a little higher at about +.2 to .3a.
I am interested what others are finding? My propex out of the box had these results and it was suggested that maybe the fan was failing and or was dirty, but I feel neither is true.
Its probably more like 1.7 +/- 0.3 amps with 1.4amp being at the conservative end?. I can't see every heater being identical and without using same meter to test all, this may not be very scientific.
Roller paint your camper at home: http://roller.epizy.com/55554/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for MP4 download.
Aye, clamp meters are not going to be as accurate as a normal "in circuit" meter because of the way they work. Also the actual voltage fed to any device affects how much current is present (Ohms law). Tim, you mention yours reduces it's current a bit when it warms up. I guess this would be to do with the bearings loosening up a tad as they warm up. TBH, I have only tested mine within seconds of firing up, so my figure of 2 Amps may drop a tad after a few minutes. Anyway, for me the difference between 2 Amps or ~1.6 or summat is not a worry (good nick 110Ahr battery with perminant "smart charger" system)
Righty, got everything I need to convert to remote operation now. The one thing I did get was a 12v flashing LED. Ghost highlighted the fact that its difficult to know if the heater has actually come on unless you have some kind of glaringly obvious indicator light. It sort of defeats the object if you have to go outside to check its on.
Finding a position for the LED is also problematic but on reflection I only need to see this light when I'm parked up at home, so somewhere at eye level should do it.
Needs four core from remote receiver to thermostat. I had planned to more or less combine thermostat and receiver to obviate yet more visible cable but theres not enough room in existing thermostat box and I haven't come across a project box that will do the job. Needs to be vented and slightly bigger than original thermostat. Found nothing so far. Could drill holes in a plain box but it'll look messy if I go that route. The other option would be to fit a seperate probe of some kind to sense air temperature but heck I want to keep this simple.
Before I fit, I need to wire the reciever up in the van and see how sensitive it is based on any proposed position. That bit is important.
Roller paint your camper at home: http://roller.epizy.com/55554/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for MP4 download.
I recieved an answer to my question that I sent to Propex about the different amperages? Here is the reply that I got.
Hi Tim
The current draw is dependent on the amount of ducting that is fitted to the inlet and outlet. It works in the reverse to what you would expect as the more you load the fans then the lower the current requirement.
You are correct that you will see a slight blip as the unit opens the gas solenoid and lights but for most meters this is such a short period that it is almost undetectable and should have no bearing on the installation requirements.
Regards
Richard
I never would have thought this! I have a length of ducting that I think I can expirement with and see if the amperage changes, Maybe we need to take a poll on how long everybodys ducting is?
