Oops!!

[sarran1955]

Hello,

Just walking the 50 metres to the barn with the camera in hand......

And I thought you might like to see the evening view with the rising moon...



The jet contrails flying south.....



Just another "pooh" day in paradise...

Anyway... bought the paint..



and cleaned the UTTERLY VITALcylinder tins, (not to be painted)..



Note the a-symmetry,,,,,imagine the press tool....

Thats it..

Cordialement,

[sooperspur]

nice thread indeed. always take on board all the stuff you post as its very informative but have one query.

I always honed the bores on a rebuild following a rebore but never did when just re ringing pistons. if there was any scratching it was rebored, and therefore honed otherwise it seemed a waste to 'roughen up' a perfectly machine smoothed surface only to have it re smoothed again PDQ once it was running again. I never found a bore with any of this 'laquer' you speak of, what is this?

I ask as I re ringed my 2.0 litre last year as one ring had broken in several places but fortunately not scored the barrel, but didn't bother to 'deglaze' the barrels, as they seemed fine to me.

ian

[sarran1955]

nice thread indeed. always take on board all the stuff you post as its very informative but have one query.

I always honed the bores on a rebuild following a rebore but never did when just re ringing pistons. if there was any scratching it was rebored, and therefore honed otherwise it seemed a waste to 'roughen up' a perfectly machine smoothed surface only to have it re smoothed again PDQ once it was running again. I never found a bore with any of this 'laquer' you speak of, what is this?

I ask as I re ringed my 2.0 litre last year as one ring had broken in several places but fortunately not scored the barrel, but didn't bother to 'deglaze' the barrels, as they seemed fine to me.

ian

Hello,

Sorry if I have been mis leading... the operation was to deglaze, (de-lacquer in French), the bores prior to fitting new rings..

Honing is, as you say after reboring..

So...

More tinware preparing..

I go over everything first with paraffin.. dry.. and wire brush wheel.. then eventually thinners and blow dry..

Polishing wheel:



Tinware all laid out, fettled, degreased ready for paint



Evidence of a prior visitor.. apart from various scratches and bite marks....

The left-hand tinware had no paint, just a water based blacking that blew off with the air jet....



That's it for this evening....

As I went to fill the watering can.. I noticed that the 'source' (eng: spring) has nearly stopped for the Summer..

When it restarts, the frosts will not be far behind....



Cordialement,

[81AirCooled]

That stone floor looks ancient John

[sooperspur]

Hello,

Sorry if I have been mis leading... the operation was to deglaze, (de-lacquer in French), the bores prior to fitting new rings..

Honing is, as you say after reboring..


absolutely not misleading at all and certainly no need to apologise, i dont know the difference between honing and deglazing, surely the same thing? using the same crude tool, its this use of the term deglazing that confuses me. it implies there is a coating on the surface of the bore, there isnt. brake drums glaze because of the brake shoe material becoming stuck to them, but i have never come across a glazed bore, only perfectly machined metal worn smooth by the previous rings, in fact the perfect surface for the new rings to seal against once the "rough" edges have been removed during running in. unless there is evidence of ovaling or scoring, in which case a rebore and the unfortunate but necessary use of the honing tool will be required, i dont think in the case of re ringing it is ever necessary to "deglaze/hone" the bores. in fact i would actually say that it could actually be detrimental to the long term health and efficiency of the engine.

ian

[sarran1955]

That stone floor looks ancient John

Hello,

Well yes it is getting on a bit.. the barn was 1840 ish, and then was dismantled and rebuilt according to modern principles in 1946..

Downstairs is the 'bergerie' where there were 12 cows.. watered by automatic 'abrevoires' from the spring..

This has become, on one side the mechanic shop, on the other the woodworking shop..

On the next floor is the main barn.. huge..

Cool in Summer and easy to heat in winter..

The floor will come out at the far end, as I shall be installing my metalworking shop this autumn, and will need a modern floor for the machines and a pallet truck..

And so to the matter in hand..

A picture is worth a thousand words... so...



That is all the tinware painted..

Underside yesterday.. top today..

For information.. 1 x 750 ml tin of black Hammerite, reduced by 30/100 Hammerite thinners... 2 coats. first dust coat, let dry 30 mins (its hot weather), then flood coat. Using a LPHV gun with a medium fan..

End of the week coming up.. more build to follow..

Shower and bedtime..

Cordialement,

[weimarbus]

to answer the other posters question I believe that the purpose of de-glazing/honeing is to aid in the cylinders abillity to retain oil for lubrication, in a similar way to leaving cylinders outside to rust slightly.

[sarran1955]

Hello,



The object of the exercise is to remove the 'lacquer' in the bores, smooth out small scratches, and provide a more 'clingy' surface for the engine oil..

[sooperspur]

Hello,



The object of the exercise is to remove the 'lacquer' in the bores, smooth out small scratches, and provide a more 'clingy' surface for the engine oil..

I really don't want to labour the point but what is this "laquer/glaze" you speak of again? and I would certainly never replace a very shallow scratch (it would have to be to be removed just by honing) with tens of thousands of slightly finer scratches, that merely results in a wonderful paste of oil metal and carborundum making its way round your engine as it wears the surface of both the bore and the rings back to the wonderfully machined smooth surface that you once already had! (however clean you think you got them, believe me they aint) and of course you have made the bore bigger meaning the rings have to work harder with a larger end gap and larger piston clearance by the time the extended running in period has been completed and the rings are worn in. this actually speeds up the time that you will need before you actually need a rebore.

imho through my past experience (in maintaining some pretty highly tuned racing engines) i believe (and the sae has done some pretty extensive research) it is detrimental to the life and health of your engine if you hone the bores when just a re ring is required. any bore would have to be pretty messed up and require a rebore before i would resort to honing. only then is it a necessary evil and then is used mainly to remove the 'rifleing' effect left by the slow moving boring machine.

loving your work john please don't get me wrong but on this point i wish i could have stopped you and convinced you not to hone the bores!

ian

[sarran1955]

Hello,

Well this is going to be a long post...

and I will try to answer some queries on the way...

Firstly the 'cool tins' go on.. the longer of the two fits the side with the oil filter..



Next is to prepare the push rod tubes..

These have been got at in the past..

With a stilson wrench..



Also the tubes had been 'brutalised' in so the oil seal was torn on several..



Next is to prepare the hydraulic tappets.. as I had stood them vertical on removal.. there should be no drain down problems..

Check that the little circlips are in place.. and that when you push down hard the piston does not 'squish'

Put a little oil into the tops..



Fit the tappets followed by the pushrod tubes.. oil well, do not use goop, and drift them in..



They should 'seat' nicely and have no damage to the seals..



Now for the dreaded 'wongly spring' These are so awful I cannot but think they were a VW bodge fix to stop the tubes drifting loose..



You have to trap them under the pedestal of the rockers... not easy to get right..

Correct..



Incorrect..



Get them right..



Be very careful to make sure that the the pushrod is not 'fouling' the spring at the top.. and that it is properly seated in the tappet at the bottom..

I use a LED torch to check..



Then torque the nuts (M11) to 15 Nm....

Haynes manual 638, page 26..





Do the other side.. and gently turn the engine over by hand to check there are no tight spots ( where the pushrod is not sitting correctly in the tappet)..

Set the initial tappet pre tension at 1 turn.. we will re set this later..

Clean and fit rocker box.. use the old gasket for the moment.. fit with grease, not Goop




Fit rhs under tin.. if it still exists,, if not.. get one..


Fit fuel pump.. gasket.. bakelite.. gasket..

(dont forget the pushrod)..







Note the little hose that goes into the tinware..

Speaking of tinware...

Tap (m6) all the captive nuts on the engine tins as this makes life a lot easier later on..



Now fit the front lower tins.. 1 bolt will do for now..



Then the oil filler pipe.. note the old gasket was on wrong..



Now fit the oil filter neck, the filter, ( I am using the old one for the moment).. and the oil cooler..



Fit the heat exchanger RHS, then the alloy engine mount, then the big crossbar.. put it on the right way round.. arrows to front..



Then you can bolt up the rubber engine mounts,, and the other heat exchanger..



The question has been asked about removing the cross bar with the engine in the van... I don't think this is realistic as you still have to take off the tinware and at least 1 heat exchanger.. considering the fuss and the scraped knuckle factor... beast drop the engine.. 1/2 hours work..

Now drop in the 2 overhead tins.. the lhs behind the oil cooler drops in , the rhs needs something to hold it when you fit the turbine casing, because there is a bit that goes in front of the turbine..



Where possible I like to use socket cap screws, as they are easy to get at with a 'ball end' allen key..



This support bar needs tapping into place to fit..



Turbine on...



Trial set up of the rest of the tinware...



Thats it for tonight...

Cordialement,

[Flyingchunk]

Great stuff.

Just what I needed! Push rods seem easier now. Will be my first real "engine experience!"

Thank you for the page ref in the Haynes manual for the torque settings. What a dummy!

I do however find Mr Haynes does require you take a "leap of faith" sometimes to join the dots.

I'm also a real fan of this site and find the advice far more valuable and easy to follow (like your guide here).

I hope one day to be a master of the T25 like many on here.

One day......

[81AirCooled]

Wonderful John, nearly there. That oil filter should be ok, it's only been run 20 km tops. Must have been me brutalizing the pushrod tube seal, though I did it all by hand and was relatively gentle as I just ain't that strong

[sarran1955]

Great stuff.

I do however find Mr Haynes does require you take a "leap of faith" sometimes to join the dots.
......

Hello,

despite the donor vehicle being their 2L Aircooled works bus....

this is definitely not one of Mr Haynes best....

So many typos.. oil filler and oil filter... there is a difference..

and so jumbled up between 1600 and 2 litre..

But I always have one handy, we have quite a bookshelf...

There is no shame in looking up information, and confirming what you knew..

Off to the workshops now...

Cordialement,



Cordialement,

[sarran1955]

Hello,

Today's update....

Fitted the heat riser tube.. feeds the air intake to the carbs..



Ray 63.. this is the bit you were missing.. as you can see it's not vital,, and certainly would not make your engine overheat..

It pops up here..



Left hand blower duct to the heat exchanger..



Then the right hand one..



Fit the duct sealing rings and then the oil filler tube....



Then the dipstick....



Making sure it is properly in its housing...



The moment of truth arrives... no I don't want to discuss engine oils..



Now onto the exhaust... first fit the securing brackets on both sides but leave them loose..



Clean up the threads..



Tap out the tail pipe flange.. caution 2 short bolts 1 longer..



I use copper grease on the studs and threads...



As exhausts use 'black' nuts and bolts, I clean these threads too...



Clean the mating surfaces, apply exhaust assembly paste, and fit the new gaskets..



This spanner makes the job so much easier..



The engine has stood with oil in for 1/2 hr.. no leaks...

So . off the building stand... note the tippex marking Top Dead Centre.. made when fitting nr 1 piston/cylinder..



Most important to get this spot on to 1 tooth on the flywheel.. as it will affect the timing..

2 or 3 teeth 'out' and your timing will never be right.. poor performance.. overheating.. etc etc...



Now that the timing has been confirmed.. fit the distributor drive...



Fit the motor to gearbox bottom studs.. make sure they are in good condition.. a drop of thread lock will do no harm..



Now the test start bellhousing is fitted..

Note the spark plugs and oil pressure switch are not fitted yet..



Then turn over the engine on the starter until oil comes out of the oil pressure switch hole..

Fit the OP switch..or the oil pressure gauge..

Then fit the compression tester on nr 1 cylinder..

Turn the engine over a few times and read the gauge..



Do all 4 cylinders..



Compression abounds..

Thats it for today folks...

Next is to fit the carbs and a SVDA distributor ignition to test fire the engine..

Cordialement..

[AdrianC]

Why on earth did they make the tinware so complicated?

Cracking work, John.