Club 80-90 Forums

HA! Nevermind the bulbs, I've got to get to grips with the beam adjusters first!

If the light switch is either dipped or full, wouldn't one feed from the battery surfice?

Old thread mate.....

One feed is fine but if it fails (blows a fuse) you loose all the lights.
Redundancy (two feeds) ensures either dip or full would still be working.

Martin

California Dreamin wrote:Old thread mate.....

One feed is fine but if it fails (blows a fuse) you loose all the lights.
Redundancy (two feeds) ensures either dip or full would still be working.

If something's blowing the fuse, wouldn't it blow the fuse on the second feed, too?

AdrianC wrote:

California Dreamin wrote:Old thread mate.....

One feed is fine but if it fails (blows a fuse) you loose all the lights.
Redundancy (two feeds) ensures either dip or full would still be working.

If something's blowing the fuse, wouldn't it blow the fuse on the second feed, too?

Not if you fuse both feeds.

Titus A Duxass wrote:

AdrianC wrote:

California Dreamin wrote:Old thread mate.....

One feed is fine but if it fails (blows a fuse) you loose all the lights.
Redundancy (two feeds) ensures either dip or full would still be working.

If something's blowing the fuse, wouldn't it blow the fuse on the second feed, too?

Not if you fuse both feeds.

Oh, wait... I've re-read Martin's post. Sorry, separate feeds to dip and main, rather than a redundant feed to each. I'm with you now.

Yup....it was a modification that I added to the original 4 lamp diagram as a result of someone bringing up that very senario (that and seperate earths, one each side). I think most manufactures do the same thing now and it does make sence.
2 fused feeds, two relays, effectively keeping dip completely seperated from full.



Martin

I just stuck in Nightbreakers which made a real difference. Will doing the mod give me much more?

California Dreamin wrote:Yup....it was a modification that I added to the original 4 lamp diagram as a result of someone bringing up that very senario (that and seperate earths, one each side). I think most manufactures do the same thing now and it does make sence.
2 fused feeds, two relays, effectively keeping dip completely seperated from full.

Could always go the whole hog, and one feed/relay per bulb...?

I've had some shenanigans with the Shogun's headlights, and persuading the big spots to come on with main - bloody thing uses a switched earth and a single live per H4. That caused me some headscratching...

flyinghitop wrote:I just stuck in Nightbreakers which made a real difference. Will doing the mod give me much more?

Did for me, check the voltage at the light. Bet it's a few volts down. will also make the ign switch last a bit longer too.

lloydy wrote:

flyinghitop wrote:I just stuck in Nightbreakers which made a real difference. Will doing the mod give me much more?

Did for me, check the voltage at the light. Bet it's a few volts down. will also make the ign switch last a bit longer too.

Check it both across +ve pin to earth pin at the bulb, and +ve pin to a good earth straight to the shell. A good, clean, direct earth can make as much difference as a good, clean, direct feed.

Difficult to estimate the difference that each made...Nightbreaker bulbs gave at least 40% on the old wiring and I reckon the relay mod did the same again.
80% overall improvement ........at least.
The lamps are also worth removing and cleaning internally as they develop a dull haze. Things just look sharper and whiter afterwards.

As for the relay mod...I'm sure you could go 4 feeds and 4 relays.... however, I think two's enough.
I did learn a valuable lesson when I did mine though....generously over egg the wiring ratings and don't go cheap on the relays. There are some very poor quality 40amp relays out there and I ended up fitting a used but branded high beam relay after one of the NEW ones starter sticking.

Martin

Thanks Martin. I'm pretty clueless regarding electrics so I'll probably settle for what I've got in the short term.

flyinghitop wrote:Thanks Martin. I'm pretty clueless regarding electrics so I'll probably settle for what I've got in the short term.

Don't worry about it ... Just do it!!! Get a multi meter across the headlamp connections and see what you're getting .. Mine was nearly .. NEARLY 10v . The most difficult part is feeding all the wires through and making "nice solid " connections ... And I know next to nothing about electrics really !!!

Read this.....I know its someone talking about old Chevy's but the actual info is spot on to what we experience....and our voltage drop is even more exaggerated because the standard T25 wasn't relayed....give it a good read.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical ... ghts.shtml" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Martin