Club 80-90 Forums

Early indications for my AGG 2 litre Golf Gti engine in syncro are mpg figures in the upper twenties. Not done enough tankfuls to give more precise figures with any confidence yet.

For conversion info have at look at my thread on the Brickyard forum.
http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/mkiii ... 52300.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

cheers
Garyd

I'm interested how this conversion compares with a 2.1DJ petrol. Mine is pretty good at the moment but I hate the nagging head gasket failure connotations of the WBX engines.

I've had a look at the 1.8 *v/1.8 16v/2.0l 8v/20l 16v engines. The 16 valves seem to produce more power but have lower torque overall which I would guess isn't that useful in a T3 let alone a Syncro. This seems to suggest the 2.0l 8v is the one to go for.

Here are the figures I can find:

2.1l DJ Wasserboxer
2109cc³/Power Output 112bhp DIN @ 4800RPM/Torque 174Nm @ 2800 RPM

2.0l AGG I4
1984cc³/Power Output 85kw - 116bhp DIN @ 5,400 rpm/Torque 166Nms @ 2600 RPM

These seem fairly evenly matched so you might question any advantage fitting the I4 but when you look at the tuning options available it makes you wonder how much more can be achieved at a decent cost to make the power output and delivery suitable to a T3.

This site seems to have good documentation for most of the conversion, especially the wiring.

Best if translated using Google Chrome

http://2e-im.vw-bus.net/

Sharan engine spec: 2.0l 1995–2003 I4 8V ADY 1984 cc
85 kW (116 PS; 114 hp) @ 5000 rpm
170 N·m (130 lb·ft) @ 2400 rpm
Significantly better torque curve than the 2.1 as per the graph on page 1

Huge amount of info received from Gary about his AGG/Simos syncro installation. Nice one mate!
Looks like the ol' Shazza's days are numbered
Anyone care to give m'lady a gentle and understanding T3 driving lesson?

silverbullet wrote:Huge amount of info received from Gary about his AGG/Simos syncro installation. Nice one mate!
Looks like the ol' Shazza's days are numbered
Anyone care to give m'lady a gentle and understanding T3 driving lesson?

Get it cut up....

Driving lesson... whats yer missus look like???

She'd eat you alive Si
I was more thinking of a ladyperson of the female persuasion, so she doesn't get all defensive and domestic bliss is preserved

That'll be Sharon then, almost won the German Trial at Syncro 25, only woman entered
Top UK driver mind

Well her ma'amship needs to get to grips with one of the fleet before the Surrey lanes day 'cos I'm not taxing the Sharan again! Time for a post in the Members area...

Back on track...here's a pic of the ADY engine as installed in the Sharan. The good things are the alternator on the front of the engine which means it will be nice and high - to help it stay dry - the equally high-level air inlet, OEM oil interwarmer...it's all there.
As much as I'd like to install it "upright" to avoid all the sump shenanigans (I've yet to find out if the JX items will definitely fit) it measures a whopping 450m-odd from the crank centreline to clear the cam cover breather/inlet manifold etc.
I poked a tape measure under the syncro and there's a mere 14"/ 360mm from the DG crank c/l to the engine hatch. I can't imagine how an upright installation is possible in a Caravelle? Pickups yes, but vans?

Ian, a useful picture for spotting the differences between the ADY engine and my AGG.

First obvious difference is the air trunking/routwe into the manifold. This is completely different and shot of the manifold itself would be useful. (one of the reasons I ended up with the AGG is because the earlier MkII GTi 'PB' engine has a rather larger inlet manifold which conflicts with the side of the engine bay.)

Also, I recognise the unit at the left end of the head with the green electrical connector. It looks like the solenoid valve for the fuel tank emissions circuit. Keep that (you don't need the hoses or anything) becuase the ECU will be searching for it and show a fault if its not there.

Looks like there is aircon fitted to the Sharan? (Is the drive belt on a self-tensioning pulley?) If there is, the alternator may sit too high once the engine is tilted over. I found I needed the alternator and mounting unit from a non-air con car to get it low enough. Of course, if you have aircon in the syncro you'll need to find another answer.

Good luck

Garyd

I need to find out if the 20 degree installation is a viable option, as I intend to keep all the ancilliaries for later use

The Sharan has got a stay of execution, but only for 6 months. I WILL NOT Tax that thing again...
I seem to have got a bit mixed up as to what installation will be the most appropriate
I've aquired a Diesel bellhousing, but his will put the engine over at 50deg and will mean sump swap/mods, possibly a Golf inlet manifold but using standard Diesel engine bars and mounts. I'm not mad about this set-up in a syncro but it seems to work OK for others.
If I try and go for the more upright 20deg-ish installation as per the SA, this will mean a SA bell, bars and mounts but should just squeeze under the standard engine hatch in the syncro as it's around 40mm (?) lower so no need for a raised hatch and leave the engine as standard.
I could copy the SA engine bearer (haven't checked the part numbers on the SA engine mounts) but the b/h will be a big expense unless I go for a jigged-up cut'n'shut with corrective machining on the Diesel one.
Have I got all this correct?
I think more basic work with a tape measure is needed first. Am I right in thinking that Diesels have the crank centreline lower than WBX or are they the same? My measurements comparing the SA and the WBX in the syncro don't seem to compare...

Sounds like you need to give that project another few coats of looking over

I realize that there is of course a third way: wbx-to-EA827 block 20degree adaptor plate. Which I am supposed to be investigating as a new product anyway...
Lots more thinking needed.