Re-spray disappointment

[milan]

Hi guys ,
in Serbia, I've done my transporter resprayed by my friend, for some 700 euros including material, an after two years it is in pretty fair condition.
As for the problem at hand, maybe the solution is oxyblock - ( http://www.oxyblock.de ) and even it is in German, it says that the product is designed specially for
rust treatment of seams, etc, where conventional methods fail. It is ph-neutral, and according to their web site it does the job.
Just my small participation in this discussion.
HTH
Milan

P.S.
I can do simple translation, but I'm sure there is someone more educated when it comes to German language.

[jiffies]

I got the respray done just outside Southampton, Fletchwood lane, Ashurst. I was recommended him by a good local mechanic. He's agreed to have it back in the spring when I want it looked at so I guess I cant say fairer than that.
As for the other product Milan has recommended, anybody used it before?
Cheers
Jiffies

[big red bus]

Good and cheap are two words that are not normally put together when talking about body shops.
You normally get you pay for in my experience.

[kevtherev]

...and some times you don't
So it's always worth checking out the company that's doing the work.

[New Kentish Campers]

Good and cheap are two words that are not normally put together when talking about body shops.
You normally get you pay for in my experience.

Usually, you do. But most 'volume' bodyshops wont take on rust/respray work simply as it's too time consuming and with rust, never cut and dried if it might come back at some point. They are more geared toward 'modern' vehicles and of course, so are their staff. Sadly, many ' body repair technicians' aren't panel beaters any more, more panel fitters because its often cheaper to replace a panel rather than repair it, particularly on front/ side collision work as newer cars are designed to crumple and that's why front wings, for instance, are relatively small against a car say some ten years older; more front bumper surface nowadays than a wing.

Best bet to get a van/car sorted out is to try and find a firm that specialises in restoration work only but also use the latest repair techniques, i.e spot/mig welding against gas, and decent 2 pack paints and primers against 'traditional' air dry paints; trouble is that a lot of the restoration firms will tend to use air dry stuff because that's how the vehicles were refinished in production.

[kevtherev]

They are more geared toward 'modern' vehicles and of course, so are their staff. Sadly, many ' body repair technicians' aren't panel beaters any more, more panel fitters because its often cheaper to replace a panel rather than repair it, particularly on front/ side collision work as newer cars are designed to crumple and that's why front wings, for instance, are relatively small against a car say some ten years older; more front bumper surface nowadays than a wing.

well put Kentish camper

[Plasticman]

Yep agree with most of what Kentish is trying to say but dont forget that gas has a very important place in seriouse resto shops and is irreplacable. other than that yep.
mike

[New Kentish Campers]

I did think carefully about that as I typed it Mike, and, taking the original Mini into account which had some factory gas welded areas, yes, it does have its place. However, I do have the opinion that gas welding is way more cruder than say a migged joint.

But of course, its great for applying Lead over a rust repairs

[Plasticman]

Thats a bit debatable really ,Unfortunately folk arent taught to gas weld and so use mig, it suffices for most general work and I have no prob lem with that, I wheel out and make ally bodies gas is the way to go, I make and repair copper/brass fuel manifolds gas for that ,I silver solder parts ,gas again I can and do tig,mig stick etc and each has it place for a multitude of reasons.
I am part of a large and thriving body repair shop with the very latest equipment, and a shop floor of some 15000sq ft
we dont use gas much there as modern repairs dont require it. but with the classic and vintage resto work it cannot be dispensed with,
I recently did a DB4, sill and rear wing bottom off to repair the floor and inner sill, these of course are ally so I made a new sill and reused the wing bottom, again gassing in.
But this is real restoration as opposed to fixing up campers and the like.
By that Im not slagging of the fixing up of campers, I can do a whole camper resto with mig, the reason I dont is that some welds are quicker,easier and neater with gas, plus it is much more enjoyable than electric (and warmer)!!
I keep thinking that it would be fun to bring some bottles to a do and teach folk how to gas weld , then its practice,practice practice as with most things,
Have a good xmas
Mike

[New Kentish Campers]

I was taught to gas weld at college, and really enjoyed it, particularly in the winter I found a no.3 jet best for most car body work and found it the most satisfying particularly when doing seams so a rod wasn't required. Ally welding was more dificult; my instrctor used to get us to smear some soap on the metal and as it turned brown, it was ready to weld. As you know ally is there one minute and gone the next

My business was in SE London, a similar size to yours, with two low-bakes, water-based Nexia mixing system, 2 car benches, I measuring system, infra-red alignment, a 2-car merc recovery truck, and a partridge in a blo*dy pear tree and all the rest of it. I dont miss the trade for a minute I'm sorry to say; it got way too stressful with trying to handle ever more demanding Insurers with their latest give-aways, like 'free' courtesy cars, lifetime guarantees, etc. Nope, I made my money and did ok from it, so good luck to you if you can stay away from the insurance side it as much as you can.

A nice christmas to you too.

[Plasticman]

Ah, well I cant really disagree with you thankfully all is paid up so wages and rates etc and stuff the world.
75% is insurance and we can live with it ok, in some respects easier than the gp who want a bit more done in the price and as theyre paying then they get silly particular, I have in the past told one that his car bis done and will stay here untill such time as he decides he likes it and its good enough, took the sod all of 11 days to like it,
We have contracts for some lucrative fleet work so all is well,
that said there is no way you would want / or be able to set up a simmilar concern today, I feel that would lead to a quick trip to either the bailiff or coronary care, and that would be a toss-up as to which I would prefere

Ally just so satisfying, if you need a guide to softening the ally just give it a light smoke with pure acetylene then burn it off, thats as hot and close to the line you can go and makes it all luvly like putty
As Sarran says, 'cordialment' mike

[Eta-Beta]

To do it proper, seems have to be opened up, rust ground out to clean metal,etched primed,surface sealer,then seem sealer. All primers ,fillers are porous and its not until the clear over base (laquer) is applied that it is truly water repellent.

[Boris89]

Has anybody tried body solder? We used to solder the seams on minis and even the bottoms of the door skins when they develop pin holes. Ok if you could get to both sides, rust held off for years as long as the areas were cleaned back to shiney metal.

[Plasticman]

Oh dear,Oh dear
Now if I recall, when doing a de-seam on a mini we used to shell them out then braze the 4 vertical seams from the inside, then grind the seam off, then recess it a touch then lead it, this was the correct way and helped prevent cracking due to body flex, did the front wings and scuttle too but that was another story and another life
mike