1Y engine conversion

[blue67]

if i remember correctly you need a long medium size screw driver to unscrew the barrel screw..then it should just pull out

I see, looks like a bit of a fiddle to get the new one back in. Thanx

[weldore]

Pull the 'choke' outnand it shnould lift it higher up the side of the pump

[blue67]

Got the new engine all in and connected, and it wont start, not even a cough. So started to look at the timing, and got thinking. Would it be possible that the fuel pump could be 180 degrees out? ie a full turn of the pulley? Is there anything else I could be looking at? Do I need to holed fuel to all the injectors? Could I put the clutch on wrongly so the timing marks are incorrect?


Thanx for your help in advance

[blue67]

Got the new engine all in and connected, and it wont start, not even a cough. So started to look at the timing, and got thinking. Would it be possible that the fuel pump could be 180 degrees out? ie a full turn of the pulley? Is there anything else I could be looking at? Do I need to holed fuel to all the injectors? Could I put the clutch on wrongly so the timing marks are incorrect?


Thanx for your help in advance

[colinthefox]

The injection pump consists of two pumps. One is a low pressure vane type that sucks up fuel from the tank to the high pressure bit, which then pumps it at very high pressure to the injectors.

When empty, the vane pump will not suck at all. The pump body must be filled with fuel by any means possible. Once full it will suck fuel up OK. Some methods are:-
1. Use an in-line hand bulb primer as fitted to french filth.
2. Slacken the nipple on top of the pump and suck fuel up from the tank using a clear plastic tube. Do this several times. Don't drink.
3. Take off the return banjo and fill the pump with a squirty bottle or funnel.

So now the pump body is full, it still won't get to the high pressure pump cos that's full of air too. There is a bleed screw on the side of the pump. Slacken this and crank over till fuel without bubbles issues forth. Tighten the bleed screw.

Now you have fuel to the high pressure pump, but it won't get to the injectors, cos the injector pipes are full of air. Slacken all the unions on top of the injectors, and crank again till fuel without bubbles sqirts out. (mind out for splashes) Tighten the unions.

And yes, it is possible that your pump is 180 degrees out, but I would try bleeding the fuel system first.

Your diesel won't start unless you do all of this in the order shown. I often do it with the cam belt off to save a lot of cranking.

[pirate-pete]

I've recently swapped a knacked TDI engine for another from a Golf and was expecting to have to crank engine a few times to get it to fire but was surprised when it fired up first turn of the key.

Which engine are the timing marks from?

If they are the ones that lined up in the Golf (or whatever the donor was) they won't line up with the pointer in the T25 bellhousing (or at least they won't if timing is correct)

If you are using the flywheel and clutch from your original T25 engine then you might be OK as I think the flywheel only fits on the crank one way. Am not sure about the clutch though as I couldn't see any marks at all on the CS flywheel or clutch I used. I made sure engine was at TDC using the Golf marks and once the engine was fitted to the T25 bellhousing I made my own marks on the CS clutch. I also had the benefit of marks on the pulleys someone had added as the engine might rotate a bit when you swap the flywheels.

I'd have thought the pump being one complete turn out (ie 360deg) would make no difference at all. The engine would need to make two complete rotations to turn the pump or camshaft through one.

[colinthefox]

Flywheel and clutch will only fit in the correct position, but crank can be one whole turn out leaving the pump 180degrees out.

[gaz f]

Having just done this conversion myself over the past 2 weeks the first thing I would ask is have you bled the diesel pump?? Mine wouldn't start until I had drawn the fuel through it, best way is to take the return line back off and suck it through (Takes a fair bit of sucking!).

I'd make sure you are getting fuel before looking at other issues like the timing. Did you change the cam belt before fitting the engine? Sorry, I haven't read through the whole thread yet.

Good luck! And as another new member of the 1Y family in my opinion it is very much worth it!

[blue67]

Well Before i checked the pump i checked the timing, as wen i was playing aound with modifying the alternator and bottom pulley i pulled the bottom timing gear out with the pully! so kinda thought it may be out.

So i have no real starting point. if i line the flywheel/clutch up looking thru the little hole, lock the cam off, and line the pump up (using the smallest hole in the pulley?) then fit the belt when i rotate the engine twice and recheck the whole lot is to "cock", so i guess i must be doing summat really wrong?

hopefully i will be able to fix this my sef before i give in and pay thru the nose for someone to fix this mess for me

[blue67]

Well Before i checked the pump i checked the timing, as wen i was playing aound with modifying the alternator and bottom pulley i pulled the bottom timing gear out with the pully! so kinda thought it may be out.

So i have no real starting point. if i line the flywheel/clutch up looking thru the little hole, lock the cam off, and line the pump up (using the smallest hole in the pulley?) then fit the belt when i rotate the engine twice and recheck the whole lot is to "cock", so i guess i must be doing summat really wrong?

hopefully i will be able to fix this my sef before i give in and pay thru the nose for someone to fix this mess for me

[peteabbott]

Don,t want to teach you "to suck eggs" BUT
With everything locked and you fit your new belt and tension it, the tensioner will take up all the slack on one side of the belt / pulleys. When you rotate your engine the tension is then spread equally over the belt but it has actually altered the timing. Allow for this when you put the belt on. Christ I hope that makes sense !

[Plasticman]

could you be 180'out with the pump timing , that is you are lining up on the flywheel but no1 could be on exhaust stroke not compression.
just a thought
m

[blue67]

could you be 180'out with the pump timing , that is you are lining up on the flywheel but no1 could be on exhaust stroke not compression.
just a thought
m

Thats what I was thinking, just needed it to be confirmed, so whats the best way of checking?

[Plasticman]

well its late and Ive had some wine,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,and beer but
I would remove the rocker/cam cover and set the flywheel at the mark and look at what the valves are doing on no 1. if your unsure then wind the engine over by hand and watch the valves , when the inlet has shut your up on the compression stroke, then line upm the mrk on the crank and check the pump and cam.
m

[blue67]

I have had another play and got the timing sorted (i think) it still doesnt want to fire, it has had a couple of coughs and spewed smoke out but will not start and run. I think it must be summat to do with the fuel? i have sucked fuel thru the return pipe. but i might need to bleed the injectors and pump? where is the bleed valve on the pump?

starting to loose the will now!!