Heat and efficiency ...

[keeno]

EGR valve is quoted at £209 from VW so I think I will do a bit more to convince myself before i jump in with that!

Do yourself and wallet a big favour by just blanking off the EGR at the inlet manifold. You will be surprised how much of a difference it will make to you intake temps. Lower temps = more mpg, less stress, less heat in to the water system... etc.

[keeno]

Hi keeno, here is corrected at 11%, I'll send you the spreadhseet if you want to keep adding figures, the chart will just keep extending automatically to suit

Harry, thanks for that but I no longer have the TDI Doka. My Tristar is DJ powered at present. Still weighing up conversion possibilities

[syncrodoug]

If you're going to blank off the EGR I would have a good attempt at clearing the inlet manifold of all the the black oily residue that has accummulated.

[syncropaddy]

Andrew, that makes sense to me; but the Bentley book i have for the jetta series and 1z engine which is nigh on identical to the AFN I have talks about overheat problems if the mix is high; im sure its a catch all generality which errs on the side of caution for many climates, but it follows in my thinking that if their is a recommendation to up the mix for arctic conditions the reverse might be true if you head south ?

Its an area that I dont have much experience of but I remember being told to put 3 litres of G11 into my JX engined 2WD Caravelle as this would act the dual roles of anti freeze and rust inhibitor. I imagine you will need some 'G something' to act as rust inhibitor for down south but I cant imagine changing my coolant for a trip to the Med, it just seems daft.

[HarryMann]

Anti-freeze...

Unless the G12 is peculiar, I am pretty sure that the optimum mix for both frost protection AND corrosion protection is 50/50..

100% gains you nothing, as I say, thought I got that from the horse's mouth, and therefore put it in the Wiki as gospel

=============================================================================================================

Ah, found this, confirms that beyond 60% (-40C protection) no further frost protection benefit + cooling effect reduced!

Also seems to imply that 40% mix would be minimum giving -25C protection and not to be reduced any less than that even in hot countries..

So 50/50 does sound right as a rule of thumb for UK..

◆ Only use coolant additive G 12 in accordance with TL VW 774 F.
Distinguishing feature: coloured violet
◆ G 12 violet (in accordance with TL VW 774 F) can be mixed with the previous coolant additive G 12 red!
◆ G 12 and coolant additives marked "In accordance with TL VW 774 F" prevent frost and corrosion damage, scaling and also raise boiling point of coolant. For this reason the system must be filled all year round with frost and corrosion protection additives.
◆ Because of its high boiling point, the coolant improves engine reliability under heavy loads, particularly in countries with tropical climates.
◆ Protection against frost must be assured to about -25 °C (in arctic climatic countries to about -35 °C).
◆ The coolant concentration must not be reduced by adding water even in warmer seasons and in warmer countries. The anti-freeze ratio must be at least 40 %.
◆ If for climatic reasons a greater frost protection is required, the amount of G 12 can be increased, but only up to 60 % (frost protection to about -40 °C), as otherwise frost protection is reduced again and cooling effectiveness is also reduced.
◆ The refractometer T10007 is recommended for determining the current anti-freeze density.
◆ If radiator, heat exchanger, cylinder head or cylinder head gasket is replaced, do not reuse old coolant.
Recommended mixture ratios:


Frost protection to Anti-freeze amount G 12 1) Water 1)

-25 °C; -35 °C
40 %; 50 %

Mark, sounds like you need one of these ...

The refractometer T10007 is recommended for determining the current anti-freeze density.

[Mudlark]

Anti-freeze...
Mark, sounds like you need one of these ...

The refractometer T10007 is recommended for determining the current anti-freeze density.

Ill get Paul to taste it when we are down in Devon; hell be sure to know ....

[syncropaddy]

◆ Only use coolant additive G 12 in accordance with TL VW 774 F.
Distinguishing feature: coloured violet
◆ G 12 violet (in accordance with TL VW 774 F) can be mixed with the previous coolant additive G 12 red!
◆ G 12 and coolant additives marked "In accordance with TL VW 774 F" prevent frost and corrosion damage, scaling and also raise boiling point of coolant. For this reason the system must be filled all year round with frost and corrosion protection additives.
◆ Because of its high boiling point, the coolant improves engine reliability under heavy loads, particularly in countries with tropical climates.
◆ Protection against frost must be assured to about -25 °C (in arctic climatic countries to about -35 °C).
◆ The coolant concentration must not be reduced by adding water even in warmer seasons and in warmer countries. The anti-freeze ratio must be at least 40 %.
◆ If for climatic reasons a greater frost protection is required, the amount of G 12 can be increased, but only up to 60 % (frost protection to about -40 °C), as otherwise frost protection is reduced again and cooling effectiveness is also reduced.
◆ The refractometer T10007 is recommended for determining the current anti-freeze density.
◆ If radiator, heat exchanger, cylinder head or cylinder head gasket is replaced, do not reuse old coolant.
Recommended mixture ratios:


Frost protection to Anti-freeze amount G 12 1) Water 1)

-25 °C; -35 °C
40 %; 50 %

Well thats that then! Is that a VW document Clive?

Ill get Paul to taste it when we are down in Devon; hell be sure to know ....

If thats our Paul, make sure the tasting is during the day as at night that stuff does things to him - the next day he leaks oil! Ive seen the proof!

[HarryMann]

Well thats that then! Is that a VW document Clive?

I believe so Andrew, though cannot prove it without finding an original and comparing, but it all sounds like their language and format

[HarryMann]

Mark, Re: High heat and high efficiency question

Have aggregated partial fuels to next brim, thus smooth curve but less detail.

I'd say think back to 216,220 ish, was that a service or during journey? Note it might be dropping back towards end of this period, but not drastically.

First point is 24.37, final to-date 27.39, a gain of 3 mpg as you say, over 5687 Km, ~ 3,500 miles
Click on image to enlarge

[keeno]

Just a thought... I run a wasserboxer in my racecar (dg stroked to 2110cc) and i had some heat issues (as you might expect with 573 hp...) so I decided to run a 'water wetter' type product from Millers called 'extra cool'. I was sceptical, buy at 12 quid it was worth a bash. I have to say, it worked wonders! The temps are easily manageable now and I have no overheating issues whatsoever! Before the water wetter, the car would tend to spit water out of the expansion bottle as I drove back to the pits after a quarter mile run. Now I have no burping issues at all, and once the thermostat has opened the temp stays stabilised at around 190-200 f.

Defo worth a pop on heavy trucks that do a lot of hill climbing

[HarryMann]

Always been a big debate about water-wetters, and their long-term downsides I believe, but not want to get into that one myself (the debate not water wetters). One long term debate was on subaruvanagon forum...

[Mudlark]

Clive;

3rd July I brimmed the tank for the Syncropendence weekend after just having done (that friday evening) the exhaust silencer, air filter, temp sensor and pump. Up to that point i had 24.70 mpg; The following Friday I brimmed for croatia and at that point the mpg had gone up to 28.94mpg; I had noticed the temp issues on the way to Wales though; the needle was sitting higher in the guage than ever before, but it was only as the outside temp increased as we headed through France to Switzerland that it rose to around 80% of the guage, and on climbing up to Gottard in the traffic queue that it went up to 100% for the first time.

So the air filter/exhaust maybe accounts for the improvement or the best part of it; or I have a fault, manifesting itself in higher temps that is causing the electronics to run the van with lower power and better efficiency.

When I get to the bottom of it; do a fix and run the van for a bit we will see if the MPG is maintained!

[HarryMann]

Any idea of the filter and silencer(blocked or blowing) condition? Filter could easily be worth the bulk of that 3 mpg if bad, especially dirty with carbon from exhaust or oil mist.

[syncrodoug]

I think the current 'anti-freeze' is G12+.

[HarryMann]

It is Doug, violet I think

I'll check what I wrote then