Club 80-90 Forums

Auto MV is 89 though...

Slip of the finger...

touche'

OK, saga in full swing now, and I don't mean a coach trip full of sexually active consenting pensioners, I mean the rebuild of a 2.1 to replace my old unit.
Having got the heads off I have found them to be quite pitted on the very bottom face, that mates to the water jacket. Chambers themselves seem quite good, only found one valve with any sign of mild burn past.
So my first new question, can I get the heads re-faced in any way? Obviously skimming would be a waste of time as it would then require the combustion chambers being machined the same depth. Or is this the normal route? New heads costing £300+ a shot means I would appreciate any way of saving them. Or should I not worry about it and expect the sealant and the rubber gasket to take care of the pitting?
Inside the water jacket is a bit rusty, but we will see what state it is really in when it all comes apart and gets cleaned up.
And manifolds for the twin 40idf's, anyone got a link to somewhere that sells them please?

re pitting

Depends on what kinda job you want done.

The Barnyard method requires JB Weld, and a piece of glass with some fine sandpaper glued to it to get the sealing edges of the head square.
The right way, for the longest duration fix is to have the sealing edges welded up, machined flat, and then you'll be rewarded with a forever fix.
( depending on how often you service your cooling system--no bi-annual coolant changes, I don't care how you repair the heads--it's gonna get eaten up again.)

So there a have it--the billy Bodger method, and the professional machine shop long haul repair.

the JB weld methid isnt such a bodge.. it works for a long time too... BUT the pitting MUST be cleaned out of any corrosion so the JB weld will actually stick..

Plate glass and course valve grinding paste will do the job, but try to scrape the "glue" smooth before it sets..

Burnt valve means seat needs cutting to and new valve required... get he others cut too..

Chemical metal holds the keyway on the end of pajero crank without trouble

I'll ask at machine shop when i go to pick up the flywheel they have done for me.

I must admit being attracted in a strange way to the JB weld method, just sounds right, if very low budget. Almost chav

I'm getting a 3 angle valve job anyway, so no problems in that area. Just been looking at ratio rockers on CSP, but it doesn't actually mention the WBX, it seems to all be for type 1-4 (apart from the IDF intake manifolds I just bought).
Do parts for these other types fit the WBX? I'm not very au fait with the VW engine and its variants.

Type 1 ratio rockers work.. but dont go silly.. you really should set the geometry correctly if you do fit ratio rockers, this also means cut to length pushrods required too. otherwise you will put undue stress and wear on the valve tips and guides..

Even if you are using hydraulic lifters? Or do you have to go to solid when using ratio? I was only going to go for the 1.25 at most.

I do remember seeing someone talk about using them some time ago, but I can't find it again. It may well have been on a different forum I guess.

Can I ask about compatibility again, do the type 1 beetle head bolts and such like fit the WBX? I heard that these type of rod bolts are the ones to use, as they aren't stretch items like the OEM ones.

Please forgive my ignorance.

No, wbx head bolts are just the wbx...

You should not run non hydro lifters on a hydro cam.. its not ideal to run hydros on a non hydro cam either.. ratio rockers will work on hydro's

and tex... stop apologising

interesting thread here, i have i little experience with twin carbs. i know its all down to personal preference, so if you don,t mind heres mine the og pierbugger is jettet for the 1.9 as far as i know( i stand corrected if it was ever used on a 2.1) if you run a 2.1dj with this carb it will run lean. end of. i have jetted my dellorto,s for both a standard dg and a 2.1 dj with high lift cam and valve job and some head work. both idle and main jets are very different, also venturi sizes. a good twin carb set up in my experience will allow you to make these changes.you could use a standard carb and ream out the jets to get it correct. i doubt it would reach its full potential with these choke sizes. i can post the jetting differences if required. just as a humouros side note:- do saxos use twin carbs? hi ho just some thoughts

Did you ever rejet the 2e3 ricicles?

and .. what manifolds did you use on the dells?

very interested in the sizes

I have to contradict the 2e3 jetting from my experience I am afraid.. on a std spec 2.1 DJ engine in an early "DG" setup in anycase..

Firstly I have a lambda sensor in my exhaust (my instalation with feedback display primarily for the LPG system) this reads rich on anything but the slightest of throttle... (when its supposed to be "weak" for economy)
Secondly, the bigger engine creates a bigger depression in the venturi of the carb therfore drawing more fuel with it.. Now add in different cam and improved breathing, the limits of the jets would be reached, but then so would total airflow through the venturi, restricting the engine.. at least at upper rpm..

Currently building a "grunty" 2.1 to replace the 1.9 in the Syncro, this will run the 2e3 carb to start with, but an alternative is in the wings
Dyno time is planned so will see what happens with each development

For the fannymoulds

http://www.csp-shop.de

Jet sizes would be most useful!!