Petrol or diesel

Post by **HarryMann** » 06 Apr 2006, 22:40

OK, thats good info. 1.5 turns sounds a lot from what I've heard (if thats the main fuelling screw)...

Is there not a low speed or idle fuelling screw as well, to adjust that back as you open the main one up? Think I've heard that.

... and I've heard about these 'pins' or 'mushrooms' under the LDA cover, they sound 'black magic', abit like sanding down and re-shaping emulsion tubes in carbs - a black art I should have said! Been told there might not be anything under my LDA.

I'll take a few shots of my pump and hopefully you might compare it to yours, see what we find (still haven't found the main fuelling screw, for sure anyway, duh!)

Post by **Mocki** » 07 Apr 2006, 14:16

square crisps, blue pop.....................*sigh*

Post by **Horza** » 07 Apr 2006, 14:21

Post by **andysimpson** » 07 Apr 2006, 18:56

HarryMann wrote:OK, thats good info. 1.5 turns sounds a lot from what I've heard (if thats the main fuelling screw)...

Is there not a low speed or idle fuelling screw as well, to adjust that back as you open the main one up? Think I've heard that.

... and I've heard about these 'pins' or 'mushrooms' under the LDA cover, they sound 'black magic', abit like sanding down and re-shaping emulsion tubes in carbs - a black art I should have said! Been told there might not be anything under my LDA.

I'll take a few shots of my pump and hopefully you might compare it to yours, see what we find (still haven't found the main fuelling screw, for sure anyway, duh!)

I do any adjustments excessive and then work backwards, its just how i do things. I don't know of a low rpm screw. The lda pin on the AAZ is not tappered like a 1.6, it either has a fixed amount of boost enrichment or none so power suffers but the enviroment stays good which is useless to me i want some go.

Fueling screw is above and slightly to right of the injector pipes, its a 6 or7mm hex with a 13 mm lock nut.

Post by **airhead** » 07 Apr 2006, 19:29

I want to try doing this myself actually. If I could get an extra 5hp out of the engine Id be happy! I dont want it smoking like bejaysus though so Ill tread lightly.

Post by **HarryMann** » 07 Apr 2006, 19:43

I understand Andys way of working, its one I'm familiar with and frankly, to find where you are and work back, a ncessity at times.
Can't do this sort of thing whittling an emulsion tube though, unless you've a pack of them thrown at you, or ignition timing, though it pays to make a fair step so again, you do know where you are but with some caution - before you set off to Timbuctoo. I've had tuned engines where a couple of degrees retard or advance would be backfiring or pinking like a good 'un, with only one setting where it would run safely - but did it fly then!

Simon B says 1/4 turn in at a time, and judging what Andy's done, I might just go 1/2 when I find this screw... let you know the result.

Post by **airhead** » 07 Apr 2006, 19:46

Where the 4 injector pipes go into the pump, in the centre of those is a nut which can be removed, allowing access to said hex screw.

Post by **HarryMann** » 10 Apr 2006, 23:14

Fueling screw is above and slightly to right of the injector pipes, its a 6 or7mm hex with a 13 mm lock nut.

OK, so I went for that, above and right facing the pipe block face? 13mm locknut and a flathead screw. Just seemed to put the idle up to 1200 using 1/2 turn.. but not tested fully yet.

There's a big locknut holding a 12mm right in the middle of the pump's pipe block - except the locknut has only two flats and a round profile elsewhere, asif to say - special tool to set this kiddie! Isn't that it?

Sound from Airheads description, that would be the one..

Post by **HarryMann** » 11 Apr 2006, 12:12

Well, whatever that screw is, it makes a helluva difference midrang, a slight bit of smoke now as it accelerates hard through 2000 rpm but pulls a LOT better, just that tickover is too fast...
More tractable and with plenty of gte up and go, still runs out of fuel at 3500 onwards I'd say.

Post by **andysimpson** » 11 Apr 2006, 16:57

HarryMann wrote:Well, whatever that screw is, it makes a helluva difference midrang, a slight bit of smoke now as it accelerates hard through 2000 rpm but pulls a LOT better, just that tickover is too fast...
More tractable and with plenty of gte up and go, still runs out of fuel at 3500 onwards I'd say.

Its normal for the tickover to increase just turn down the idle screw. I agree it runs out of go at higher revs, i think a lda mod is needed.

Post by **HarryMann** » 11 Apr 2006, 18:54

oops, have to ask where everything is

Where is the idle screw?
Do you mean the throttle stop (which its not really going against and doesn't seem to do much)

have some photos now, be putting up later this evening - but the get and go is much improved...

Do you get opils urge and 'running on oil' from yours on continuous right hand turns (e.g. going right on BIG roundabouts, uphill and sweeping right hand turns... detomation and smoke.

It's either oil level increasing inside turbo bearing due angle and centr force or oil welling up in cam cover (not designed like the JX with breather coming off large pressed hump), and pouring down to the inlet pipe ahead of compressor.

Post by **andysimpson** » 11 Apr 2006, 20:40

HarryMann wrote: oops, have to ask where everything is

Where is the idle screw?
Do you mean the throttle stop (which its not really going against and doesn't seem to do much)

have some photos now, be putting up later this evening - but the get and go is much improved...

Do you get opils urge and 'running on oil' from yours on continuous right hand turns (e.g. going right on BIG roundabouts, uphill and sweeping right hand turns... detomation and smoke.

It's either oil level increasing inside turbo bearing due angle and centr force or oil welling up in cam cover (not designed like the JX with breather coming off large pressed hump), and pouring down to the inlet pipe ahead of compressor.

On the cylinder head side of pump there should be a a long screw going to bottom of pump if faces upwards this is the idle screw. If you still can't get it low enough try the throttle stop adjustment.

My engine is waiting to come out of the golf so not yet running on its side.

My conversion is taking forever because i am changing from 5 cylinder lpg to diesel, lots of body mods were needed for the 5 cylinder which needed reversing.

I plan on an oil catch tank on mine if only just to reduce the oily film over the entire induction system which will reduce the intercoolers effect.

Post by **HarryMann** » 11 Apr 2006, 20:47

Right will look, just browsing my inj. pump photos, but don't remember seeing such a thing... that big screw lock nut (if it is) between the fuel pipes is about 24mm with rounded not sharp corners to the hex's.

I plan on an oil catch tank on mine if only just to reduce the oily film over the entire induction system which will reduce the intercoolers effect.

Please send full 3-View Engineering blueprints by return - thanks!

[a slight variation on the sort of mails I get in the syncro moderator's email box

]

Post by **andysimpson** » 11 Apr 2006, 21:03

HarryMann wrote:Right will look, just browsing my inj. pump photos, but don't remember seeing such a thing... that big screw lock nut (if it is) between the fuel pipes is about 24mm with rounded not sharp corners to the hex's.

I plan on an oil catch tank on mine if only just to reduce the oily film over the entire induction system which will reduce the intercoolers effect.

Please send full 3-View Engineering blueprints by return - thanks!

[a slight variation on the sort of mails I get in the syncro moderator's email box ]

It may not have the screw if it had air con or was a late engine. Without going and looking a would say the screw is slightly to the left of injector number 2.

The catch tank will be very simple and cheap, plastic bottle probably a 5 ltr screenwash bottle so i can see how much is in, will be secured behind nearside back light area, pipe from engine connect to top and another coming out the other side at the top going to air intake, most of the oil should get left in the bottle.

Post by **HarryMann** » 11 Apr 2006, 21:30

1) The slotted screw that seems to give it real go and a bit of smoke low down(but raises the idle) 1/2 turn in (locknut is 13mm)

2) Big nut (22~24mm AF?) with rounded edges - central to all 4 injector pipes (haven't managed to loosen it yet)

3) Central nut (12mm) in 2). Can be undone whence fuel drips out

4)Solenoid for cold start advance (pulls a cable along engien side of pump which works a lever same side, small travel with adj. stop)

5) Lever, possible cold-start or boost enrichment (used to have something like this active from cab, when intercooler fitted, for towing caravan, kick-down)

4 & 5 maybe interchanged