Club 80-90 Forums

You need a micrometer set for crank and pistons, mine is 0mm to 100mm Moore and Wright 215 for £100 but something like this will do
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4pc-Micromet ... 2750976511" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

and you need a bore guage for barrels, mine is like this ( some cheaper ones but Chinese sellers and I don't use them myself)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metric-Dial- ... 4002026337" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

ideally a dial gauge for crank end float but with some diy brackets you can use feeler guages.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dial-Indicat ... 3638402840" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

you will need some circlip pliers for the pistons, striaght and cranked for 2mm holes
to pull the piston pins you can make your own puller
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 2#p8156269" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

to get the crank circlip off you need some thing like Knipex 45 21 200 circlip pliers but they are quite expensive and there must be a cheap alternatives.

to get the cranks gears off you need a puller like this https://www.vwheritage.com/ac000132-cra ... r-vw-spare" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

tap set to clean out threads or just buy an M8 and M6 tap and handle

barrel honing tool I got a Laser 2070 there are cheaper ones.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JANUARY-SALE ... 0373928765" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


100mm+ piston ring compressor tool £10

you don't need a piston ring opening tool the DG can be done by hand ( 2.1 really needs a tool for the top ring.)

I think that's it for the special tools, you can always sell them later

There's always a bit of a balance between tools and components, and this is being done on a budget, if at all, some thoughts for what it's worth

Micrometer set - that's a good value set, but an initial inspection of the bearings / journals should be the starting point, the vernier calipers you already have will probably be a good initial guide

Bore gauge - might not be needed at all if there's little signs of piston scuffing or scratches

Gudgeon pins - again initial inspection /feel of play can be sufficient, as the pistons are already out the pins can also be tapped out using something softer like wood or a brass drift

There's no need to pull the drive gear off the crank until you have decided that the No. 4 main bearing is being replaced or the gear is damaged. On my "Unknown" engine it was pretty difficult to remove, much harder than I expected

I have never sold tools, for what you get for them after ebay fees and the discount you have to give against new prices it's hardly worth the effort. Beg borrow & steal where you can. Oh alright then, not the latter one I'm too far away to help with loans, sorry.

I'm conscious that you might just be getting knowledge / developing a budget for the rebuild, before deciding to tackle the 2.1 head reseal anyway, and the better the quality of the rebuild the more it will cost.

Have you determined if you have stretch con-rod bolts or not ?

What's the number 1 bearing looking like, is that where the play / knocking was from or do you think the knock was just the camshaft gear ?

Brilliant. Have an engineer friend who just might be able to help.
Now to source a cam ring gear. Will check size tomorrow. Think its got zero next to part number.
Regards
Stuart

Sorry. Got a bit out of sequence with replies. I thought l had sent this before sitting down to dinner.
Will reply shortly.
Thanks

Thanks to Carrera and Itchy. Both sending excellent advice.
As lm heading to NW Kent on monday l could call on old family friend Geoff Waddington in Biggin Hill. Old school engineer. But l need to clean up components before he measures.
Then lm off to Chichester for two days' sailing. Afterwards in Medway area helping with my nephews business.
So l will need to put a halt on this topic after Sunday. Back again 22nd Feb
So whats wrong with a bit of fine wet n dry to clean bores? Worked fine on my 1976 Suzuki AP50

937carrera wrote:
I'm conscious that you might just be getting knowledge / developing a budget for the rebuild, before deciding to tackle the 2.1 head reseal anyway, and the better the quality of the rebuild the more it will cost.

Have you determined if you have stretch con-rod bolts or not ?

What's the number 1 bearing looking like, is that where the play / knocking was from or do you think the knock was just the camshaft gear ?

Gettin knowledge and breaking my cherry. Too much unfounded scare mongering attached to messing around with internal of these wasserboxers. Bit smug of me l realise. Yet even local classic VW garage wasnt prepared to handle engine because of fearing snapped headbolts. Any fool can rip one down l guess. But the proof in the pudding will be in a decent rebuild. So l got lucky and had no issues undoinging any bolts or nuts....especially headbolts. Heat every time. ...so on a bit of a high at present and intend to reiterate that these engines can get repaired without owning expensive tools.
Checking pistons and conrods tomorrow.
Checking No 1 bearing tomorrow. ...which one is that?

maxstu wrote: So whats wrong with a bit of fine wet n dry to clean bores? )

Nothing, to be honest if all you can see is the broken gears throw it all back together with a second hand cam or cam gear and tickle the main crank gear with a file.

If you just want a running engine you really can cut every corner.

itchyfeet wrote:

maxstu wrote: So whats wrong with a bit of fine wet n dry to clean bores? )

Nothing, to be honest if all you can see is the broken gears throw it all back together with a second hand cam or cam gear and tickle the main crank gear with a file.

If you just want a running engine you really can cut every corner.

On the same page here. lt gonna come out after 2.1 rebuild

Bearing number 1 is the one at the flywheel end, two different types depending on early / late case

PS you bought the wrong bike, I thought everyone wanted the FS1-E at that time

937carrera wrote:Bearing number 1 is the one at the flywheel end, two different types depending on early / late case

PS you bought the wrong bike, I thought everyone wanted the FS1-E at that time

That's very kind of you. I'll be asking plenty of numpty questions on rebuild.

The AP50 was superior moped (ha) by a long margin. Just unrecognised by the yoof in the late 70's. Bit like Mini and Hillman Imp. Of which l have both owned. Imp any time over Mini.

maxstu wrote:
On the same page here. lt gonna come out after 2.1 rebuild

But if you want the 2.1 to last you are going to need to measure some stuff how will you do that?

Also a if you get this DG rebuilt reasonably well and have proved it runs it's worth good money later, if you show the world you bodged it here nobody will be interested.

You need to find out why those gear teeth were shagged, there is no path from carb to sump so don't assume bits of melted carb did this.
Go looking at the bearings in case something siezed.
There is a path from oil breather tower to sump so maybe this route if it melted, I'd be inspecting all the debris in the sump.

Why doesn't maxstu get Paul to rebuild it?

Will probaly cost about the same once you buy all the tools etc
And if Paul builds it you know it will be right.

Rick

Cobra88 wrote: Will probaly cost about the same once you buy all the tools etc
Rick

I only do my own.
My time is free to me and Stuarts time is free to him.
A top end refresh takes me 20+ hours
A full engine rebuild is probably double that.
Lets say I was interested in rebuilding WBX for others ( I'm not) and I only charged £10/hour that's far in excess of the tools for the labour alone. In addition you have to add £140 for two pallet deliveries £70 each way, again can get a lot of tools for that.

I'm not a professional just an amateur, no reason Stuart can't rebuild an engine as good as me or anybody else on here that has done it with the right tools and attitude.
And you never know Stuart, you may just be good at it and start a part time business doing engines for others in your spare time??

Thought you had about a dozen already done

Don't knock it mate you definately know how to build a waterboxer

I have found the build threads very useful as they arent full of Faffing
Very well written and pictured
Rick

Cobra88 wrote:Why doesn't maxstu get Paul to rebuild it?

Will probaly cost about the same once you buy all the tools etc
And if Paul builds it you know it will be right.

Rick

Cos since meeting Paul last year he has inspired me to give it a go, and because working on these engines is not beyond the average Joe, he insisted to me.
If you can get your head around a 16valve twin cam, delving into the wasserboxers is very much back to basics.
And because many others such as MM , Carrera and T25Convert etc give you such wonderful support when answering my numpty questions l feel l can go where others have trod. May not be to their comprehensive level. But you have only failed if you dont give a go.

But equally important factor is lm on a tight budget. Whereas before, when employed, l would simply park camper at garage and happily pay for whatever was needed.

I have plenty of time to learn now.