Fuel Return Pierburg 2E3?

[ajsimmo]

That part is normally closed anyway, and often blocked. It does little to bleed the air out, which can be done manually when required, so I'd say it's safe to leave it blanked off.

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[CJH]

When I adjusted mine I set it so that when it's on the bottom step the idle screw was just slightly off the end stop, so that the idle speed on this setting is just slightly above the hot idle speed. I note though that Kev suggested in another post that the idle speed at this point should be the *same* as the hot idle speed, so my guess as to how this should be set up was possibly wrong.

Just to correct my misinformation. This is the post from Kev that I was recalling. He said:

#1 step = idle speed
#2 = 1100
#3 = 1400
#4 = 2000

I misinterpreted this I think. I now realise that Kev meant that #1 step is actually the hot idle position, with the fast idle screw not resting on the cam at all. So with it resting on the bottom step (Kev's '#2'), the revs are indeed a fraction higher than the hot idle, which is how I've set mine up. In this position there's a small gap between the idle adjuster screw and the throttle end stop, as per this photo:

[Worleyboy]

DG 1.9 1984
Still not good. Starts just right, first turn of the starter, and ticks over on the choke just like my ear remembers. But then the revs start climbing to an uncomfortable level and manovering the old girl involves considerable slipping of the clutch, not good. Using the accellerator does not bring the revs down, as it used to. Previous to this last trial start I had screwed "in"( threadwise) the fast idle screw about 2.5 turns, just to see if there was any change. There is no change.
Question to CJH, if you have time: Clockwise/Anticlockwise is not like like Port and Starbord on a boat. Clockwise /Anticlockwise can be different depending if you are standing in front or behind the skrew. I adjusted the skrew in an anticlockwisedirection from the rear of the vehical with my knees against the bumper, that is I screwed the screw "in". This had no affect on the fast idle speed, if anything it was worse. Choke pulldown works, tested twice. I supose the carb will have to come off again and be inspected from all sides for mechanical hitches.

[CJH]

I think it's normal to use clockwise and anti-clockwise to mean the way the head of the screw/bolt would turn if you are looking at it end on, with the head closest to you and the threaded part pointing away from you. So you need to turn the fast idle screw out (anti-clockwise) to lower the fast idle speed.

If the pull down unit is working, then I assume the high revs are happening when the fast idle speed is on the second highest point of the cam. The only reason I can think of that the fast idle speed does not reduce as the engine warms up is that the bi-metal spring inside the choke housing is not correctly engaged with the lever that rotates the choke flap. Did you separate those parts of the choke when you had the carb apart? Did you engage that lever into the square loop on the end of the spring?

[Worleyboy]

Thanks CJ, now we are understanding each other. I was turning the screw the wrong way, which by this time, I suspected. However, before I started screwing the screw "in" it must have been way too far "out", as the cam was going way past it ,not stopping at all on any cam position! So having observed this and having read your post (missinterperated)I thought I had found the problem. Back to square one, have looked at choke coil but will look again, will look at springs too, probobly have to remove carb to get a proper look at things. Thanks again, keep in touch.

[Worleyboy]

Ok now I`ve found something not quite right! The base for one end of the cam spring must have come loose during the cleaning process. Check the foto!!! Not easy to recognise on an unfamiliar object, untill you have it removed for inspection, though I was getting suspicious about the funny spring on the cam, but maybe it was supposed to be like that??? Anyway, put it back together properly tomorrow and hope that she works better. I have reset the fast idle screw to where it more or less was before, you can see on the threads. Thanks for your help and interest everybody, knowledge and support is much appreciated when you are tearing your hair out! Will let u know the result, thanks.

[CJH]

Did you mention a photo?

[kevtherev]

What photo?

[Worleyboy]

Coming soon i hope. Be a little patient.

[Worleyboy]

picture

[kevtherev]

No that's wrong.
And that's why its not stepping down.

[CJH]

Some photos of how those springs ought to be set up.

[Worleyboy]

Caravelle DG 1.9 1984
Carb back on spring remounted and engine running "O.K", sort of. Had a bad feeling after studying the lovely pics from CJH. When I had the carb out and on the bench the fast idle screw would not ride down the cam as is neccesary, just couldn`t figure that out. Then after a drive to the shop and back I just had to have another sorti with the Pierburg. I did a lot of thinking, with CJH`s pics in mind and after a few minutes it dawned on me that the throttle was riding on the "warm" idle screw, which was way too far in! I backed it off fully, the fast idle screw then cam into contact with the can after screwing it in a long way. I did a rough setting for fast idle and normal idle and came in for the day. See how it works tomorrow when cold. Things realy got messed up when I got desperate last week! I didn`t realise that these two settings worked in sympathy with each other.
Time for this link to close, I hope things will be ok now, never had such a messy start for the Spring, but I have learnt quite a lot on the way. Thanks everyone for youe advice and knowledge, great support in times of need!

[kevtherev]

Welcome to the Pierburg 2e3 owners club

And a special member worleyboy who fixed one.
You can now answer questions on here from confused owners with confidence

[Worleyboy]

Thanks kev, I will be watching your adviced information!