Lol.... Yours looks like its slightly higher than mine and might catch the base unit...I didn't take my seat out so could see this issue. I can see yours is also low profile.
I searched all over for a low profile socket with a 'built in LED'.. this was one of the major factors for me swapping over to a UK socket, so I had an indicator to tell me if the hookup is 'LIVE' or tripped as they often do.
Martin
Last edited by California Dreamin on 28 Mar 2015, 23:07, edited 2 times in total.
Martin, you gave me the idea so you can take full credit for the fact I took the plunge to do the mod . I have gone for a low profile socket, and I have bought a 4 way adaptor with twin USB sockets that has a power LED and surge protector LED that I intend to plumb in to be situated being the passenger seat running from the new socket.
nordberg wrote:
Ralf, I have done the modification. I was getting annoyed with the adaptor coming out with the plug.
So, what's the problem? My adaptor is permanently attached to a UK plug with a cable and 4 way UK adaptor attached. Anyway, you seem to be having fun, so that's what matters.
Can't wait to see your next modification, but leave the fridge where it is.
nordberg wrote:
Ralf, I have done the modification. I was getting annoyed with the adaptor coming out with the plug.
So, what's the problem? My adaptor is permanently attached to a UK plug with a cable and 4 way UK adaptor attached. Anyway, you seem to be having fun, so that's what matters.
Can't wait to see your next modification, but leave the fridge where it is.
Ralf, I think the fridge will stay. I must confess, this is the first classic vehicle that I really don't want to modify with anything that's not irreversible. The plug socket is the only thing that meant some material has been taken out of the cabinets to install. The other mods are going to be using existing screw holes.
After some considerable arm twisting my wife has convinced me to name my van. I don't usually go for that kind of thing but after browsing the net for a list of suitable German names we settled on Wolfgang. I have modified the Westfalia logo and intend to get some lazercut stickers
Photoshop below (May get stickers done in black....)
Another small upgrade. Friend of mine makes these for most Westy models. Thought I would have to pull the fridge to do the electrics but plenty of space round the back
keith wrote:They look nice....did they come apart easily as i want to do mine
They weren't to difficult to strip down Keith. The hardest part was prizing the cross member from the two hinges. It tends to wear a little at this point causing a groove which in turn makes it a bit difficult to free off. To be fair mine wasn't to worn. Seen a lot worse requiring substantial measures to put right. I'm going to make sure the area that wears has plenty of grease on when put back together
Last edited by nordberg on 02 Apr 2015, 08:53, edited 1 time in total.
Hi there. Cost me £70 which I was quite happy with. They shot blast first which would have removed the rust completely. I will just say that I had the foresight to block both ends of the tubes that contain the springs that help elevate the roof. I did hear a guy mention on a Facebook group that he had this done recently, built it back up and now he has an annoying gritty noise when he activates the mechanism because there is still sand in the tubes from the blasting process. Just something that's worth considering if you go down this route
Pitched up yesterday afternoon at Eriba Glade campsite. Leave tomorrow. Not long enough but I am going to enjoy it while it lasts
One thing I would recommend is to anyone that is rebuilding a Westfalia pop top roof mechanism is that they double check the orientation of the locking pin when out back together, or you may find your roof decides to open on the M69 when doing 60mph. I'm only saying