Club 80-90 Forums

nice one

Yup, that's the one Lloyd, right click.

Mind you, if you've already got all the stuff in your van already you might be able to make it work from the right click receiver perhaps?

Or alternatively replace it all with the right click stuff and sell off the oem parts at a huge profit....

I like the sound of the alternative idea... Thinking aloud, how do you get power into the sliding door? Am I right in thinking the factory version uses little connectors on the door pillar? How did you get around that with the aftermarket one?

I bought a 2 pole door striker from eBay, did some careful drawing out then drilled some holes.

Took the leads up the A pillar and across the top of the door and down the B pillar. Easy peasy.
You might even have the striker already if you've got factory central locking no?

The right click stuff integrates with alarms too, you got an alarm?

No alarm, just the passat immobiliser and a tracker. Yes I do have that striker/contact plate in the pillar, might also be able to use the loom already there for all the actuators? Could save me running my own.

I would imagine it should be easy to use the existing loom, you'd just need to splice it and attach the new right click loom into it. As long as the existing wires are all ok then you're sorted.

Quick continuity test with a volt meter and bobs your uncle.

Have you got central locking on the tailgate? If so i'd like to see some pics of that....

Yep, I've got it on the tailgate. I'll take some pics over the weekend.

Well, I've just bought the right click set. Quite looking forward to getting it working.

nice idea that lloydy! job for the winter then!!

Just seen this thread and it looks like a great way to fit an immobiliser. Is this way of doing it as "safe" as fitting a Cat 1 immobiliser? Are there any pros and cons I should be aware of?

Also, could someone please clarify exactly what is needed to do the job, I'm not 100% clear from reading the thread? My van is an '88 Autosleeper high top (non power steering).

I presume I need:

-A flip key including chip and immobiliser ring from a donor car. Do I also need the ignition barrel, or keep the existing one? Golf and Passat have been mentioned. Any particular models/years?
-A blank N series blank key to cut and fit to the new flip key housing

Is that it for parts and then it's just a question of fitting? Any help much appreciated, thanks

ps I'm actually not a new member of this forum, but i got locked out of my account and couldn't get back in so had to create a new one!

All of us who have fitted these immobiliser rings/chipped keys have, as far as I know, done so as a follow on to converting to a later VW engine (usually GTi or TDi) from a vehicle which had the immobiliser as standard.

The engine ECU requires the input from the immobiliser circuitry before it will run the engine. Thiose above who are reporting fitting the ring to the standard T3 ignition lock are only moving it from elsewhere in the vehicle (with the car key /chip taped to it) to make it actually function as an immobiliser when the key is removed.

As far as a I am aware, it is not possible(?) to retrofit this type of immobiliser to the standard T25 ignition wiring. Can anyone prove me wrong?

That sounds right to me

How much work is required to extend the loom for this? I disable mine at the back at the moment which is a PITA.

Need to sort this out and have used RightClick's gear on a number of VW's in the past. Good kit.

garyd wrote:All of us who have fitted these immobiliser rings/chipped keys have, as far as I know, done so as a follow on to converting to a later VW engine (usually GTi or TDi) from a vehicle which had the immobiliser as standard.

The engine ECU requires the input from the immobiliser circuitry before it will run the engine. Thiose above who are reporting fitting the ring to the standard T3 ignition lock are only moving it from elsewhere in the vehicle (with the car key /chip taped to it) to make it actually function as an immobiliser when the key is removed.

As far as a I am aware, it is not possible(?) to retrofit this type of immobiliser to the standard T25 ignition wiring. Can anyone prove me wrong?

Oh I see, thanks for clarifying that. I thought it sounded too good to be true! I shall look into a standard immobiliser then...

Posh,
you asked:

poshbuggers wrote:How much work is required to extend the loom for this? I disable mine at the back at the moment which is a PITA.

It's very simple really.

The immobiliser box has three connections. You only need to run one wire from the engine to the dash. This is the grey/white wire which is in the main engine loom and connects to the ECU plug on pin 43 (T68/43). In addition you need a local sourced ignition live to the black lead and earth for the brown lead.

While you're doing this you may as well also fit the VAG 1551 diagnostics socket in the dash where it's supposed to be. This uses the same grey/white (T68/43) cable plus brown to earth and red/white to constant live via a 15amp fuse. The yellow is not needed - it originally connected with ABS and airbag sensors.

The 'aerial' unit goes directly onto the ignition lock as has been said above, after a bit of minor trimming of the two parts of the column shroud. It's cable plugs directly into the immobiliser box. I combined the T3 key blade with the Golf key top and chip exactly as Lloydy has shown in his post on page 2.

Should only take a couple of hours to complete.