Early 1.9 to 2.1 conversion - stop me if I'm being stupid!

[CJH]

OK, good to know. I've had a few stainless bits bind up on me, and once they grab that's it - they'll shear before they move again. In fact the sensor blanking bung in my stainless exhaust is stuck fast, and will have to be drilled out if ever I need to use it for a sensor. Maybe Copaslip or similar would prevent this, but stainless studs with brass nuts seem to be a popular solution for exhausts anyway.

[itchyfeet]

yes the lambda bosses can bind up ( I suspect welding the boss distorts it) but never has the problem with m8, and all my exhaust bolts/nuts are stainless.
if a nut was to bind to a stud the whole lot would come out....still no problem.

[CJH]

I took all my tappets apart again last night, to make sure I hadn't trapped a disk during reassembly. They're all ok, and in fact I think it would be quite difficult to recreate the off-centre jammed-in disk that I found in the faulty one.


(two missing from the lineup because (a) I'd cleaned and reassembled one before thinking to take the photo, and (b) I can't get the faulty one apart)

For reassembly I'm following Andrew's procedure above, and cleaning them thoroughly and applying assembly lube all over the inner plunger. I don't see how it can survive long-term, but it should minimise any drain down between assembly and first running. I'm also being consistent about the disk orientation (probably not needed) and about orienting the bore holes 180 degrees apart (probably won't stay that way in use). They'll then be stored in oil, but coated in assembly lube before insertion into the engine, again to minimise that initial drain down.

One other tweak to the assembly routine. When squeezing the plunger in the vice, it takes some force to move it (hydraulic pressure, to move the oil), but then it's only that fairly weak plunger spring pushing back. And obviously it's best not to squeeze it too far, in order to minimise the chance of air getting back in. So my approach now is to push the plunger the absolute minimum, so as the get the circlip resting on the inner edge (which is enough to stop the plunger springing back), then use an 11mm socket to do the last little push. I get a nice reassuring click as the circlip pops into the groove, and I know the plunger hasn't been pushed further than necessary.







If these things don't perform properly, it won't be through lack of trying.

[CJH]

I checked my oil pump end play this evening. As far as I can tell, it is precisely zero. I can't get my thinnest feeler gauge (0.05mm) in anywhere (gears or body), and visually there does not appear to be a gap.



I've noted Itchyfeet's update to his post about not using a gasket, to the effect that his leaked after a couple of thousand miles when he only used Curil T on the cover, so I'm inclined to use a gasket. The one that came with the pump measures at 0.1mm, which would straight away take me to the maximum allowable end play. A separate one that I bought from BW measures 0.17mm, which evidently would only suit a pump that has negative end play of 0.07mm or more out of the box. So I think I'll make a gasket from the thinnest paper I can find. The existing zero end float would be good, but I don't want it leaking.

[itchyfeet]

To be fair I haven't 100% confirmed this is leaking, there is a little oil comming from dizzy because I forgot to change seal but looks like its coming from pump area.
Victor reinz gasket looks way thinner than elring but I haven't measured it yet.

Are ypu going to try the oring? did I ever send you some?

[CJH]

Are ypu going to try the oring? did I ever send you some?

I'm not sure - very tempted. I followed your experiments, but unless I've missed something I don't think you've found out yet whether the O ring makes a difference in your engine. But I do get the argument about aerated oil etc. I don't have the means to cut the O ring groove myself, so I'd need to find somewhere and give them very accurate measurements. I note the problems you had getting the O ring in without cutting. It did occur to me that a twisting action might have been easier than hammering it in, so that would mean temporary removal of the studs.

I may give it a go - will make some enquiries at work about machining the groove.

[CJH]

I've been checking dimensions and marking the pump body where the groove should go, in case I can get it done at work. I'm having to use a pump designed for 3-bolt aftermarket cams. I've noticed that the hole in the inlet side of the pump body matches the corresponding hole in the case at 15mm (I think - tricky to measure an oval hole inside the case now it's bolted together). The outlet hole in the case seems to be slightly smaller (~14mm), whereas the pump body outlet hole is much smaller - around 12mm. This smaller hole seems like it might restrict the pump outlet unnecessarily.

Since I'm attempting to have some machining done on the pump body anyway, should I be also be asking them to open up that outlet hole to 14mm to match the case? Is the smaller hole in my pump body due to it originating from Beetle/Aircooled engines, or are proper WBX pumps the same (in which case I'll leave well alone).

[CJH]

By the way - the thinnest paper I can find is what last night's tea came wrapped in: 0.065mm. So I'll pick up a clean, flat sheet on my way past the chippy this evening.

[itchyfeet]

no not fitted my pump, its a camper and its summer so that will have to wait until winter
yes people like marco mansi open up the pump holes to match
silicone spray would probably help the pump go in, not sure if twisting will help, may do more harm than good.

[CJH]

Well I've left the pump body with someone to have a 2.2mm x 1.5mm O ring groove cut. It won't be ready until some time next week unfortunately, which puts paid to my hopes of getting the engine installed this weekend. I've also asked him to open out the outlet hole to the same size as the inlet hole - that'll be a fraction bigger than the outlet hole in the case I think, but will allow for any small misalignment of the holes.

So now to prepare the pump cover plate and cut my chip paper gasket.

And then finish re-assembling the tappets.

And then fit the pushrods and rocker gear.

And then service my LT2.4 carb.

And then fit the various cooling system parts: water pump, thermostat housing and stat, pipe flanges, pipes.

Then fit my new radiator in the van.

Then fit my oil cooler in the van.

Then fit and wire in my new oil pressure and temperature gauges, and wire in a dashboard light for the higher pressure oil pressure sender (my early 1.9DG only has the low pressure sender between the pushrods).

OK, so maybe this weekend was a bit optimistic....

[itchyfeet]

Chris

hold that paper up to the light, no only do you want thin you want an even thickness, some very thin paper is all over the place, I will send you some sheets of what I have previously used at 0.07mm so ypu have options...with the orings for the pump

[CJH]

Thank you - well yes, the chip paper has variable density, that's true, but it measures up the same wherever I put the micrometer, and I was expecting to put a smear of sealant on both sides too. And it's specifically designed to absorb oil, so should stay 'moist' (unless I'm too thorough with the sealant). It will be interesting to compare it to the stuff you used, thank you.

[CJH]

Looking for advice on dropping the engine and gearbox. If today's MOT goes to plan, then this weekend I'm hoping to start removing the engine ready for when my modified oil pump comes back and I can put the new engine in.

I've seen various methods for removing the engine, and have settled on the boat winch approach, which seems like the most controlled method for doing the job single handed (£16.90 delivered from Amazon). That's cheaper than renting anything to do the job, and not much more than using ratchet straps, which wouldn't give me any control over lowering it.

Itchyfeet's photo:


But I'll also be swapping the gearbox and the CV joints at the same time. So my question is, am I going to be better off dropping them as a pair, or engine first, or gearbox first? And the same question for refitting. I'm inclined to split them so that the weight is more manageable on my own. I know the gearbox has to be supported to get the engine out, so I'm thinking I'll support it on a trolley jack, remove the engine, then remove the gearbox mount and lower the gearbox. But equally I could drop them as a pair using a combination of the winch to lower the engine and the trolley jack to lower the gearbox.

So to those of you who've tackled this, how would you approach it?

[itchyfeet]

Engine is not really liftable with one person, estimate 80kg, you can drag it and get it onto a trolley or bench single handed by using scaffold planks as ramps and sliding it.

Gearbox is 40 kg, together withengine IMO no chance of moving alone so if you drop together you will probably have to split on the ground under van, may as well split in van.

One benefit to dropping together is you don't need to remove oil filler pipe or exhaust but as you need to swap all tbis anyway my feeling is access to bolts is easier when its in the van, on the ground has to be harder.

[ash1293]

Could try and find an old pallet dolly knocking round somewhere - could drop the whole lot onto the frame and then wheel out.