Need advice from the forum sages

[itchyfeet]

Yes need the wire but you may get away without it for quite some time because it self excites when reved over about 3k and once charging it stays charging until you switch the engine off

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... d#p8001720" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[MarrV]

So this mysterious blue wire could be the exciter wire for when running @ low revs?

Noticed on back of new alternator is has three connections, B+(battery) D+ & E (earth?). The old alternator has two connectors, B+ and D+ - the exciter wire should go to D+

Looking at the back of the old alternator it looks like the has been a wire connected to D+ at some point but the wire has worn/snapped off.

Following up on ELVIS's suggestion of googling - is it possible the exciter wire & indicator bulb wire are combined (reading through http://www.vw-resource.com/alternator_wiring.html#alt" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) As this might make sense due to the not being a secondary wire (just one blue)



The manuals we have are for; T25, Passat and Vento/Golf (for the engine, although the 1.8 8v is from a jetta, am thinking do I need this manual. The Vento manual is this due to an ordering mix up)

[ghost123uk]

Following up on ELVIS's suggestion of googling - is it possible the exciter wire & indicator bulb wire are combined (reading through http://www.vw-resource.com/alternator_wiring.html#alt" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) As this might make sense due to the not being a secondary wire (just one blue)

Correct

And tbh, it's not a mysterious blue wire. We all have one

[MarrV]

It was mysterious to me as i was ignorant to its function, and way it was not attached to anything. Now I know why it was not attached. You see I am learning, albeit slowly

[MarrV]

RIght, have put old alternator back in place and attached exciter wire, but not managed to test it. That is one of todays jobs.

The other is trying to address this clutch issue. Looking at haynes T25 manual the is a "hydraulic pipe" running from a hydraulic hose. From what I can see someone has done is remove the hydraulic hose and rear section of pipe and replace it with tubing



The tubing then just snakes its way to the slave cyclinder. Note the hose clip was an addition by me when we found the clutch loosing fluid while broken down on the side of the road. Before that it was just "sealed" with some sort of putty.



The hose clip reduces the amount of fluid lost, but obviously this was just a stop gap solution until now.

So two questions;
1) Is the assumption I should take out this tubing and replace it with the correct hydraulic hose, retaining clip & hydraulic pipe as per haynes manual diagram (t25 6.2 manual for me) correct?
2) What is the best way to stop the hydraulic fluid flow while I do this or do I have to drain the entire system & refill/bleed it after?

[Oldiebut goodie]

That is the correct original hose by the look of it.
You will only lose a small amount of fluid (although a little goes a long way when spilt) - the fluid is easy to replace provided the bleed nipple is free.

[MarrV]

So is this original tubing (plastic) meant to be attached to the slave cylinder with putty or another means?

Also does haynes have it wrong;


Namely this "original tubing" going from where the "hydraulic hose" attached on the left to the slave cylinder without having any bracket as per the diagram.

Just double checking as I tend to make mistakes over the course of the last 14 pages

[Oldiebut goodie]

I think that picture is of the 091 4 speed gearbox - I think yours will be a 094 5 speed - that is what mine is and it has the same pipework as yours. The pipe is connected with a union at the slave cylinder the same as the other end - both will be rusted solid and difficult to undo (just to cheer you up )

[MarrV]

We do indeed have a 4 speed gear box, the van is an 87 (the previous chaos being due to the engine being from something else).

Tightened the hose clip up, topped up the hydraulic fluid level (was low) and clutch is working again, just need to tidy it up.

On a seperate note I am going to re-read this thread as the damned engine now wont start from a poor spark... am sure someone here mentioned that before.

** re read and I am truely wishing my misses spent a bit more money on a better vehicle (j/k). Some things I did not answer before that I picked up on this time through;

The radio is wired directly to the 12v, not the ignition so it will be a power drain when it is in, but I have not had the radio in since all the electrical issues for that reason, the terminal that is disconnected is insulated so not to cause additional issues. Once I get her running I will move the radio 12v over to the ignition wire (once found it etc to remove the drain when engine not running).

It was mentioned the poor placement of the ignition coil could result in it over-heating & producing a weak spark - where would be a better placement for it? Top right of engine bay?

Will try battery tomorrow as it is on charge over night, and if that doesnt work to jump start her (to see if it is battery or not). I am sure I will keep you guys informed no matter what, as I am damned if I give up now

[ghost123uk]

Just a couple of points to help you on your way :-

So is this original tubing (plastic) meant to be attached to the slave cylinder with putty or another means?

Note that the pressure in the clutch hydraulic system is around 200 psi (pounds per square inch) and so proper metal, screw on fittings with a flare on the end of the metal pipe is required to contain that much pressure. No putty or glue or owt could do that. I am surprised the jubilee clip method works actually. I wouldn't rely on it

Re the radio. It is normal on a camper van to have it in a main 12 Volt feed because many of us use the radio when parked up. Note:- the "memory wire" that keeps the clock and the pre-sets working does have a very slight drain on the battery but as long as your battery is in good nick it won't affect it (unless you often leave it parked up for weeks on end without charging the battery). The main power feed to the radio only draws current when the radio is actually on, so it doesn't matter where that gets it's feed from. Better from a permanent live though, so, as mentioned, you can use the stereo when parked up. Many folk connect both power feed wires to the leisure battery so as not to drain the main battery when using the radio loud, or for long periods when parked up (camping).

[MarrV]

Thanks Ghost. Will look into getting the correct replacement parts in due course then, apparently finding the connectors can be somewhat troublesome, but a good hunt would be a nice distraction.

Also thank you for the tip about the radio, current thinking is we must have another power draw somewhere for the engine to start fine one day and then not with a weak spark the next. So will try to find it & sort it out today.

I know power drain was mentioned before, but truth be told I get a little flustered at times, so I try to focus on one thing at a time. Now I know she fires and runs am focusing on power drain. (also testing the alternator now that the exciter wire is in place).

On a seperate note;

How do you identify wires in the engine bay that are not connected to anything (electrical tape over end of them)? Or is it a simple case of tracing them back to their source?

[ghost123uk]

On a separate note;

How do you identify wires in the engine bay that are not connected to anything (electrical tape over end of them)? Or is it a simple case of tracing them back to their source?

Yes, tracing them back is the best way as you never know what mods / bodges have been done to wiring in the last 20+ years

p.s. Stick you van type and engine type in your sig

[itchyfeet]

If its origional wiring then it will be din colours and you can scan the haynes wiring diagrams for that colour to see what it does and therefore where the other end should be
go find the wire in the front by tye colour and using a multimeter and a seperate temporary long wire connected from the taped up end to the front buzz it out to check they are connected

your blue alternator wire if i remember goes to the fusebox then onto the dash so by pulling the dash multiplug off you can buzz from the blue in the dash connector to the back using an extra piece of wire joined to the blue at the rear

[MarrV]

Aye been cross checking between the two haynes manuals and tracing wires around.

ID'd one wire as likely to be an AC tap for tacho, which is not connected as no tacho for alternator in vehicle at the moment.

She is not starting again, found out;
No current draw from battery when ignition off.
Battery seems to be ok, holding 13.4v. Went down to 12.8v from trying to start her a few times
Spark plugs have carbon fouling on them, but oddly only on half of the plug. Either way going to give them all a clean.

Did not do anything else as rain was beginning to get into engine bay

Tomorrow going to check resistances on ignition coil between 1 & 15, then 1 & 4. Then compare to what they should be (once I find out type of ignition coil etc).
Will also check wiring as wiring seems to be more in line with t25 on coil (does not help my Vento Haynes manual does not have ignition coil easily labelled, only glow plugs...) but will check & trace those wires when it is dry tomorrow.

Also clean spark plugs, check all connectors. Tempted to set to TDC on compression and re-check dizzy arm (paranoid about it now) and make sure it is still turning ok. Running through my head what else could be, the TCI comes to mind, but as far as I know the only way to confirm that it to get a new one/eliminate all other possibilities.

Am getting ahead of myself again, shall just logically work through tests and see.

What is most annoying is 2 days ago she started fine and ran for a bit on idle, the next day (y-day) she didnt start at all....

[ghost123uk]

Sorry to hear you still have problems with your engine,

but this is confusing:-

Vento Haynes manual does not have ignition coil easily labelled, only glow plugs...

bold by me =

(glow plugs only on a Diesel, so you won't find an ignition coil on that diagram )