Club 80-90 Forums

Stesaw wrote: ↑28 Feb 2023, 23:01 That's just a good excuse to go buy a heater for the garage

Stesaw wrote: ↑28 Feb 2023, 23:01 That's just a good excuse to go buy a heater for the garage

If only l could afford to run it! The engine can wait until lm ready to work out there in warmer weather.


Got more pressing problems to sort at the mo.

My bike broke down two weeks back, when the stator failed, leaving me stranded for five hours on a very dark and cold motorway. The recovery firm couldn't find me? My fingers got so cold l accidentally dropped my phone and smashed the screen. So walked across a field to an Aldi store and borrowed a phone off a customer.

The new replacement spare stator l already had turned out a duffer. Waiting on another replacement. That another 100 quid.


Then Maxine fell unwell, just as we heard our fourth application for planning was rejected. So six years, 20 grand and mucho amounts of stress for nothing. Cheers Sevenoaks Council.

Our application went from nine houses to just two. And still rejected, despite paying council tax on two rented statics for the last 7 years on the same piece of land!

Bertie, my doggy mate needed an op on his back. He's my 11 year old companion, being the only other male out of four dogs and one ill female in the household, so he recognises my pain.

But...what with this LPG rumour, l hear? There's a Shell garage down the road in Birchington still selling it.

When it rains it pours Stu, hope the mrs feels better soon and the pooch.
No idea about the LPG stuff, I was browsing for kits for a T25 and an LT28 

Thanks, matey. She's getting better.
What kit's be these, Steve?

Just 2nd hand cheap lpg kits if people are selling em or braking vans that have em on.

Pm on way later today

It's hard to see much of value in a 2nd hand kit. The tank will usually be long out of certification (10 years), the pipework is often old copper, ripped out bent and damaged, compression fittings need a lot of cleaning work and new olives to be useful, filler point probably contaminated with road dirt/rust, vapouriser corroded and soft oily diaphragm/weak spring, electrics need rewiring anyway...you get the picture.
I'd recommend buying new for optimal safety, reliability and performance. (And that's me speaking impartially as I don't fit them any more.)

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This sort of thing, plus tank/filler.
https://lpgautosupplies.co.uk/shop/lpg- ... -injected/

Although I would upgrade pipework to flexi faro.


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Back on this by unpopular demand.

Crank and camshaft fitted. And cases mated together with Curil green non drying stuff. Perhaps a little too much. Then all case bolts dabbed with curil and set to torque values, starting with the smaller of these two under No 1 piston.







I had a tough time sorting end float. With new bearings l really wanted to be in the mid range between 0.07 to 0.13mm (limit 0.15mm) . So about 0.10mm ideally. With limited shims l finally managed to get a reading of 0.085mm. A bit tight. But that will have to do.



Off with flexplate again. Added retaining washer, correct sized third shim, case seal and oring inside flexplate. Then nipped up five bolts with loctite. Still reading 0.085mm.






Banged in oil seal at pulley end too. Should it go further in than flush? Using a three belt pulley.

Time to fit new oil pump with new genuine VW cover. New Meyle pump with gaskets. Pump reads under 0.04mm gear axial clearance.
What is the opinion here. No base gasket? Just a smear of curil. Or use thinnest out of two paper types?

Primed the oil pump with oil.
Fitted the thinnest of two cover gaskets and new cover.
I guess the new style cover nuts go with red seals against the plate, (unlike the originals that had red seals outwards) , otherwise how could nuts get torqued up?

Thanks for taking the time to post this stuff, It's making me look forward to doing mine!

maxstu wrote: ↑13 Mar 2023, 16:36
I guess the new style cover nuts go with red seals against the plate, (unlike the originals that had red seals outwards) , otherwise how could nuts get torqued up?

Indeed, and how would the seal work on the contact area between the nut and pump cover, if the seal is applied away from the cover.?

Definately the seal paste goes on the flange side, so that it squishes and fills the void between the stud thread and the holes in the cover.

Robsey wrote: ↑13 Mar 2023, 21:59

maxstu wrote: ↑13 Mar 2023, 16:36
I guess the new style cover nuts go with red seals against the plate, (unlike the originals that had red seals outwards) , otherwise how could nuts get torqued up?

Indeed, and how would the seal work on the contact area between the nut and pump cover, if the seal is applied away from the cover.?

Definately the seal paste goes on the flange side, so that it squishes and fills the void between the stud thread and the holes in the cover.

Yep the red seal against the cover Stu, I have them on mine, but like a prat after I put them on and as I torqued the last one up I remebered I forgot to prime the pump with grease so I had to take them off.. and yes it leaks a bit because of it..