1.6td to Volvo b230a...

[carpmaster]

Other little jobs included sticking petrol in the tank..no initial leaks..engine oil and carb oil now topped up and ready for action...now for one of the difficult jobs..clutch bleeding. I need to bleed the system before I can start getting to grips with connecting the gear linkage.
I started the job like all good boy scouts..read the manual!
Here is my jar and personal assistant for the day Mr woody. I started proceedings with letting Gravity take its course...the bubbles..plenty of them..

a picture for those like me who are learning..this is where the clutch and brake fluid goes-(shared feed)- and I always kept it topped up


As I was on my own I needed to see what was going on each time I used Mr woody..so I relocated the Jar..worked a treat..

Several hours of tooing and froing from one end of the van to the other I pushed out just short of 2.5ltrs say 4 jars full with no bubbles...

[carpmaster]

You may think I have cracked it..I believe I have when it comes to having no air in the system..However, Once I put the things back together..tightened up the bleed nipple etc...I wasn't able to depress the clutch pedal...rock solid..not sure whats going on..I have had a chat with Neil (thanks for calling mate much appreciated) and I am waiting to hear from Aidan who might be able to shed some light on the situation..

[carpmaster]

I was pretty fed up by this point so concentrated my efforts on modifying the rear shift rod and gear shifter. As you may recall I moved the gearbox mount 45mm toward the front of the van. I have to compensate for this and this is what I decided to do.
30mm on the gear shifter and 15mm on the pinchrod end. I am hopeing the way my luck is running it will help when it comes to fitting it and subsequently selecting gears..we shall see..I am sure many adjustments will be needed..
Here is a flick of the rear shift rod and gear shifter..I used a drill bit to help line up..clamping this piece perpendicular is not easy, even with a workmate and two G clamps to hand.


Not bad I reckon...

All fitted and I have plenty of play and movment in the rear bush and rubbers..

I then worked on the the pinch bolt end...

simple mod and I cleaned it up ready for a nice easy slide in!!

[carpmaster]

I then thought maybe I would have a prelim fix ready for when I get my clutch situation sorted...got underneath the van and for the life of me couldn't remember if the support bracket fitted on the inside or outside..
Inside between the gap

the outside..just make out the support bracket at the bottom of the picture..wasn't easy taking a flick

Haynes manual I couldn't tell from their picture..I studied the VW Bentley manual and I think its showing the outside...would make sense I suppose..well it is 12:30 in the morning.. ..If anyone wants to help..please feel free..

Off to play around and study electrics and connnections tommorrow..
Tom

[carpmaster]

Hello again
Done a bit more today..Weather was a bit chilly on the bones..
Jobs for the day was to study the existing JX engine bay electrics and establish new homes for the Volvo loom..
First I worked on the ignition coil and its new home..

Then got to work on fitting the control unit..just to the right corner..and I wired the connections together..not the best pick

[carpmaster]

I then spent time labelling what I have at the moment so that I can then determine what I do and don't need..one step at a time for me...electrics and what things do is now my next stage of learning...hopefully others can learn from this..thats one of the main reasons I post my findings..it's a way of saying thanks for the help I receive..Here we go..
A nice easy one is the header tank connection (Wires x2= brown and green and blue)..

what I need to do is find out which wires connects to the mark 4 golf header tank wires.

Another wire I need from the Jx set up is the solenoid and I reckon its the black one in this flick.

..check out the rest of labelling I have done and for those who are a dab hand and carry a wealth of experience..please feel free to add/contribute where you see fit..
wiring for the alternator x2 (blue and red and black)

Here are a few more with labels describing what I believe is right..

a little more detailed..but for those that know...its down to you..

one I wasn't sure about..prbably a break in the cable from days past and fixed using the yello connector...it's snapped again..the wiring seems quite brittle..

[carpmaster]

Thats it for the time being..catch you all soon..next week once work is out of the way..

Thanks for looking

Tom

[jed the spread]

I wasn't able to depress the clutch pedal...rock solid..not sure whats going on..

Did you put the clutch release bearing on the input shaft?

jed

[carpmaster]

Hello Jed

Yes... I did a double check before mating up the gearbox when I realised that I hadn't lined it up correctly with the adapter plate..here is a flick from the time I corrected things..

As you can see it's clearly on there...I am also aware how easy the release bearing can come off if you over extend the reach of the clutch arm..just pops off!!
There is a possible solution/s that Aidan is currently helping me with its too early to say at the moment..I will be posting soon once I have more information.

Tom

[silverbullet]

Sounds like you've got the clutch master air-locked (or it's possible that the recuperation valve in it is stuck - new cylinder required). Get an "Easy-bleed" pressure kit for the hydraulics and have another go. Makes it so easy you'll wonder how you worked without one before.

[carpmaster]

A few days ago I unfastened the slave cylinder pushrod off the clutch arm nipple and I get a good resistance pushing the rod towards the skys and it wants to come back to its natural resting place....

""Get an "Easy-bleed" pressure kit for the hydraulics and have another go. Makes it so easy you'll wonder how you worked without one before."" I worked really hard...any pointers towards a source for an easy bleeder.(Other than myself... ...) best to get those tried and tested kits...word of mouth is always best..
Thanks
Tom

[silverbullet]

Gunson's used to do one, it uses the air pressure from a spare wheel (20 psi max IIRC) and you fit the pressure tube from it's fluid reservoir to the appropriate cap for the vans' brake reservoir. You only need a few 100ml in the thing to bleed a clutch

[jed the spread]

Hello Jed

Yes... I did a double check before mating up the gearbox when I realised that I hadn't lined it up correctly with the adapter plate..here is a flick from the time I corrected things..

As you can see it's clearly on there...I am also aware how easy the release bearing can come off if you over extend the reach of the clutch arm..just pops off!!
There is a possible solution/s that Aidan is currently helping me with its too early to say at the moment..I will be posting soon once I have more information.

Tom

The only reason I asked is because I did it myself recently On the upside I can now swap a petrol gear box on a Syncro in under two hours

Hope it helps

jed

[carpmaster]

Sounds like you've got the clutch master air-locked (or it's possible that the recuperation valve in it is stuck - new cylinder required). Get an "Easy-bleed" pressure kit for the hydraulics and have another go. Makes it so easy you'll wonder how you worked without one before.

I got one of these coming to help me have another go.....thanks for your help Ian
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250959206634? ... 1423.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have to eliminate an air lock possibility as mentioned...before I wipp out the master cylinder (if indeed the problem!!)...a locked pedal suggests strongly towards the recuperation valve in the master Cylinder being stuck. Aidan has said the same as you Ian. However I really want to try the self bleeding kit "without depressing the clutch pedal as stated in the Haynes manual" and see what happens then. I do have a little free play in the pedal as it stands..once my nippers go back to school I will get my good lady to be my second pair of eyes and see what the slave cylinder is doing..I do get good resistance/movement with the pushrod on the slave cylinder..suggesting that I have no sticking issues here..I detached the nipple from the clutch lever arm and had a check...It was first thought I had possible put a diesel arm on instead of a petrol one..Aidan kindly sent a petrol arm down for me to compare..there is a difference of approximatley 15 degrees.
I took some flicks of the lever arm and the free play it has..thankfully the free play is an indication the release bearing is on as when I moved it toward the clutch release plate..a definate "metal" contact sound.. I think I'm making some sense!!

slave cylinder set up before I detached the pushrod off the lever arm nipple

I then took the pushrod off the nipple and took a measurement before

I then moved the lever arm as far as it would go..

[carpmaster]

Forgive this post..I have already posted it on the electrical side, however I need to post here so those following this post can see what I have done to date...I hope I make sense..
A big thank you to Hacksawbob who posted the PDF..
It has helped a great deal and after several hours of studying what I have-need and don't need I began work.. I also used Haynes manual 3452 as a cross reference because I needed to establish connections for the ignition coil and solenoid cut off valve.
In the first flick everything which has a hashed/dotted line connection I have disconnected. Both relays for the glow plug and secondary coolant pump are now gone.
Working from left to right on the flick T3/3 which is connected to D15 on the relay plate I have used to connect to the ignition coil terminal 15.
T7a/6 has been disconnected at the engine bay.
T3/2 has been disconnected at the engine bay.

Bottom right I have written a comment about the solenoid cut off valve..My first error ..I didn't completly trace back through the flow diagram when cross referencing with haynes...I actually need to tap into T3/3..I will be sorting that tomorrow...

The second flick shows T7a/5 which is connected to E12 on the relay plate (goes to rev counter) I have used to connected to the ignition coil terminal 1. Again I used Haynes as a cross reference (1.9 petrol carb).


The third flick again working from left to right T7a/7 has been disconnected at the engine bay.
T7a/1 I have used and coonected to the oil pressure switch on the Volvo 0.3bar....When I turned the key (not engine turn over) The warning light was flashing...could be because I have yet to crank up enough pressure..or it could be that I have used the wrong one..something I will study later.