Which engine and Carb you have - Solex to Pierburg swap

[marlinowner]

I usually just buy a bag off eBay...
As long as they are well crimped and the wires are routed so that they doesn't flap about and break off through metal fatigue, then a warm and dry engine compartment is a pretty good environment for them.

[lefty67]

Somewhere like this
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/mobile/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You might need one of these
http://m.screwfix.com/p/firemax-vehicle ... -6kg/91740" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Smiffo]

You might need one of these
http://m.screwfix.com/p/firemax-vehicle ... -6kg/91740" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Nah - This vehicle fire extinguisher is far more `ergonomically designed`

https://www.fotolia.com/id/23668591" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[lefty67]

You might need one of these
http://m.screwfix.com/p/firemax-vehicle ... -6kg/91740" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Nah - This vehicle fire extinguisher is far more `ergonomically designed`

https://www.fotolia.com/id/23668591" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I think I could fit one of those under the bed

[itchyfeet]

The yellow ones in the pic you mention are VW, they are not standard.
The problem you have is that normally 12V is on a female shrouded spade connector, disconnect it and it's reasonably safe because its shrouded i.e it can't short to the engine.

VW for some reason used male shrouded spade connectors also for +12V, these are generally not available, If you fit a standard unshrouded type it's OK until it's disconnected and touches the engine with no fuse = melted wires

Not trying to worry you but you need to be anal about this ( not with the fire fighter ) of you have a potential problem.

Standard crimp connectors are all the same, not much quality difference get them wherever, do however use a proper crimp tool not those you get in the pound shop.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ratchet-Crimp ... xyyjpRtezt" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Look back at my picture and you will see sleeve, this gives protetion to any suspect wiring or male spades that are +12V

[Smiffo]

Ok itchy.

I hear you. I have gone this far, so might as well do the rest properly

[Smiffo]

Well, while I have to wait for my new bleed rail I may as well get on with the wiring-in of fuses...

I see you have a 15 and 20 Amp fuse set-up there.
Which circuit is 15amp, and which is 20amp, Itchy?

I still have to get my tank back in yet..!!

[itchyfeet]

you can see the 20A comes off the post in the box that powers the thermoswitch relay circuit.

The 15A is ignition circuit (black) thats easier because you can disconnect the yellow in line connnector and add a fuse holder with a male spade one end and a female the other, it then just plugs in line.
As I said male spades you buy are not well shrouded hence the piece of sleeve you can see

[Smiffo]

Cheers Itchy.

I will pop out to look at mine when I get 10 mins, and see how my fuse box corresponds.
Shouldn't be too hard to work out what's what.

Keep you posted

[Smiffo]

Ok.



Mine looks a little different to yours.

Red post is easy to see, and yes it is permanent 12v live on that.
I think the one I'm holding in the picture is the other one you mention, although it isn't fed by a red wire like your pic.
( I have proved continuity between black wire that goes into carb, and that plug in my hand with a meter. )

The one in my hand has two black wires coming from it on one end - one goes to carb circuit as discussed, and the other I presume goes to the coil.
This circuit isn't permanent live, which makes sense though as it will go live with ignition turned on.

And yes, I will get some sleaving too.

[itchyfeet]

yes thats it, it's not red in my pic, the red is the wires that came with the fuse holder

[Smiffo]

Hahaha I see now
This will be easy enough to do, and I have plenty of downtime to do it.

Out of curiosity, why is the choke ( red plug on carb ) not Thermostatically switched too?
It seems to be just on switched live, so unless it turns itself of when it reaches temp, it would seem it is always on with ignition?

Am I confused?
How does it operate with the cooling aspect in there?

[itchyfeet]

yes choke heater always on and wasting a mighty 12W of power, dunno why VW did it but my wiring is original and seen other late vans the same.
Haynes shows it on the thermoswitch circuit so it may be early vans were wired that way, not seen an early one.

It's also water heated so I can't see why it's needed, I can only guess that the thermoswitch shuts off before the choke needs to in some situations.

Ahh here's a thought, perhaps it has a positive temperature coefficient so power drops off when it's heated?
Have to get the multimeter out when hot

[Smiffo]

Yes, even my Solex was wired as switched 12v live.
( Solex has no heating via liquid, so that could be why for a Solex set up? )

So there must be some method of them shutting themselves off - maybe how you suggested with pos coefficient - you would think, or it is a waste once up to temperature.

I also checked Haynes. Yep, you were right, that shows the choke wired to the Thermostaic switched circuit as you said.

I can't imagine ours are both wired wrong, so it must be original, and mine is also a late van so the difference might be in years.
Unless.... Yours was a DF with Solex when it started it's life, just like Boyd

Slumming it with the DF peeps, eh!!??

( Just kidding Itchy, although it would be interesting to get to the bottom of it all. )

[itchyfeet]

Yes, even my Solex was wired as switched 12v live.

Do you mean thermoswitched or ignition switched?