Ride question, maybe topping out?

[Plasticman]

Ive got a 16"doka here thats std and the atlantic if you want me to measure for you or have you enough now
mm

[lloydy]

Would be good to see what the 16" measures. Hub nut to the underneath of the arch would be great

[lloydy]

So I'm starting to think then, these hubnut measurements for the steering geometry, like what you get on the brickyard. Are they all taken from the underneath of the wheel arch? I always presumed it was the lip. Think I might be pretty high then, and my geometry will be out.

[Plasticman]

well took some picks of the 16",(would point out its jagdwagon)

I have held the tape to the underside of the arch lip behind the plaggy .= 19 english inches

likewise tape to underside of lip =18" and I have also shown the measurement to the seam as this will allow for mods to arches etc
this =20 1/2" ,I did the measurement straight above,excuse annotations
mm
can do the syncro atlantic as well if you wish?

[lloydy]

Cheers for that mm. Seems that I am about 20mm higher. Seeing that I have a r&r bed, wardrobes and a fair bit of other weight over my back wheels compared to the doka, I would say I'm quite high. Shock extenders needed then.
Thanks again micky

[Plasticman]

just measured the rears on the syncro atlantic with the body jacked clear of the ground so full drop on the rear was 22 1/4 to underside of arch lip and 24 1/4 to the seam as per doka
mm

[lloydy]

Thanks, but I think a 14" will be different?
Will have to decide what's better now, longer shocks and sell my almost new ones, or shock extenders. Suprised I need them really, 19" from hub nut to bottom of plastic arch. Thought I'd have to be a lot higher before running into this problem?

[armyphil]

Surely shock extenders would be more cost efficient?

[Plasticman]

Use care, Ive spent 20+ years designing and building 4x4's for racing and you need to keep in mind that stroke has to cover full bump +bump rubber compression +any axle twist (more an issue on live axles) + a safety margin else you will bend the rod, likewise with full drop, if it doesnt cover the complete movement then your shock will act as a check strap and not a happy one at that,remember a damper is for damping and not limiting stroke.,
I wont shock you with the cost per corner of seriouse dampers
mm

[lloydy]

Yeah, I know what you mean. I also kinda like things to be right. Brickwerks sells longer rear shocks for £180 ish for a pair so not too bad. Might get £90 selling mine if I'm lucky? Syncro services also sell longer ones for 99 euros each.
The shock extenders for the rear are quite good though, it just moves the mounting point on the trailing arm upwards. 16" versions not available yet though

[Plasticman]

Yes sure they do as long as they still damp as required, should be ok for general offroading type stuff so there you go,happy with options
mm

[jed the spread]

A Syncro plodding up a green lane at 6mph isnt a rally car, nor is it a Cosworth and doing 55mph plodding up a motor way isn't that grueling . My mechanical knowledge is basic but I reckon the extenders work well and move the mounting point up so they are still well within tolerable limits on the terrain I have driven on the past 12000 miles and 14 countries I have driven with them on.

Oh and they are cheap and VW shocks are good

jed

[lloydy]

Waiting for dave to get the 16" version to the metal workers. The ones you got wont fit, I'm sure I'll get a set when he gets them made. If the 16" version is as good value as the 14"..........

[Plasticman]

Quite agree, which is what I said ^^^
mm
how recent was the picky stuff tonight?